Ridge Runt Evo

[Hoqiam]

Did you have any trouble bending the motor wires sharply back after moving the shaft back in the opposite
direction?
I was also concerned about the spinner fit up and sanding through the nose tri stock.
Did it take much force to move the shaft?

 

[Wayne]

I didn't sand through the tri stock, that is how I want to see most of the tri stock after rounding. 90% should be in the form of dust on the ground.

If building an electric, I would suggest the larger spinner, and maybe a layer of extra balsa on the sides to allow more of a round shape there.

Plenty of room for wires! there is space top and bottom, just tight on the sides.

There is a set screw to loosen and a C-clip to remove before pressing the shaft. It is pretty simple. We hope to have a motor that is preconfigured eventually.

 

[RafaelAvila]

 

[thenated0g]

Finally thinking about getting to this build. My friend and i were talking about trying out some powered towing and i was thinking about putting one of your aerotow hooks in the nose. What do you think about that? And do you think the small one will fit?

TopModel Aerotow Hooks

Whether your new to glider towing or a seasoned veteran we believe you will agree, TopModels aerotow release hooks are built to haul and priced to please.CNC machined from billet aluminum with a steel pivot pin that holds the release hook. The tow hooks glued into the nose of your glider. A push...

alofthobbies.com

 

[Wayne]

Never used one myself, but have been selling them for years and never heard a peep back from folks, that is usually a very good sign. Yes, small should be fine.

 

[Red]

Finally thinking about getting to this build. My friend and i were talking about trying out some powered towing and i was thinking about putting one of your aerotow hooks in the nose. What do you think about that? And do you think the small one will fit?

TopModel Aerotow Hooks

Whether your new to glider towing or a seasoned veteran we believe you will agree, TopModels aerotow release hooks are built to haul and priced to please.CNC machined from billet aluminum with a steel pivot pin that holds the release hook. The tow hooks glued into the nose of your glider. A push...

alofthobbies.com

I've used these a ton over the years and they work fine. They do take a little extra room for the pushrod to clear. Make sure the loop on the end of your tow line is sufficiently long to insert into the tube without the knot going inside, much easier to deal with that way.

 

[The Bluehead]

It finally lives!! Been done a month or so and finally got it out to fly. Maiden was a bit of a handful as it went vertical on the launch. CG ok but a bit out of trim. Video came out really blurry. Cruises around nicely at 20% power. Really loved the build guys, great fitting on all the laser work. Highly recommend getting one. Can't wait for the next project. Want that 100 incher next Wayne!!

Thanks again, Will

 

[Wayne]

Looks really nice! Love it.

Next up will probably be the Lele, the idea with the LeLe was a little bigger and a little more complex, but turns out it is very easy to build also. LOL We may have some progress to show on that project late today.

 

[Warthog]

I finished mine and flew it last weekend. It flew good but it needed a ton of aileron trim. I was pretty careful to build the wing flat, but I didn't really check it again after covering it. Turns out it had a good amount of twist in either one or both of the panels. I heated them up and got them pretty straight. Flew it again yesterday, and while it wasn't quite in trim, it needed only half as much as before.

So, I checked it again, this time by taping some carbon fiber rods to the bottom of each wing tip, and sighting down the span to gauge the straightness. It was still a bit off, so heated and twisted again. I overshot by a tiny bit, but I think we should be good now!

Still need to add a bit more graphics, but that'll wait till I get it all trimmed out for good.

 

[Wayne]

I like the carbon rod idea.

 

[Warthog]

I like the carbon rod idea.

Anything light and straight will do. I had at first tried to use my incidence meter, but it's way to heavy to sit on the wing without the weight if it twisting the wing and throwing off the measurement.

Flew again today in pretty light lift. Needed just a touch of right aileron trim, but after landing, it looked like the ailerons were pretty much in neutral, with the exception of a bit of twist in the aileron stock. I'm gonna call that done, though!

I'm really enjoying the aileron response with the bigger aileron stock. It will roll pretty much in any conditions, unlike the original , which required full down elevator to maintain altitude in a roll. I also have spoileron programmed in for landing, which, while not really necessary, works pretty well, with almost no elevator compensation needed. I also have snap flap programmed in, but have no idea how much or little it really can benefit from.

Last weekend, I flew it in 10-15 mph wind. While it could handle it, it almost seemed too much for the light weight. It could use some ballast, but I'd be a bit nervous adding more than a few ounces to the wood structure. In the meantime, I enjoy flying it in light condtions.

 

[Wayne]

While not the most slippery model, the airfoil allows the RRE to fly in a range of lift from mouse farts up to about 18 to 20 for many slopes without ballast. Our electric we have a little more weight in, and zip that sucker around trying to rip the wing off, so far she just takes whatever we throw at her. With this said, I think she is in the sweet spot for lifter lift, that is what I enjoy the most.

 

[Warthog]

Since I'm old fashioned and still use NiMHs, I decided to make a former for the battery area and a little retention latch. Not so much because it's necessary, but more as an exercise in 3D printing.

 

[Wayne]

Nicely done!

 

[Wayne]

Here is a very nice example that was shared with me:

 

[thenated0g]

that looks great

 

[Warthog]

And we're done! Thanks to my friend for cutting out the logo from the same pearl yellow Ultracote I used on the fuselage.

 

[Wayne]

Very nice.

 

[zeo0nie1]

Another "admire from afar" submission...

I'm getting close! It's been a nice build. I really like the 3D printed components, it seems to make things much easier. I just wish the covering stuck to it better.

Some questions below. Please let me know if this isn't the right place to ask.

1. I have a stubborn twist in one half of the wing. Any tips on getting it out? You can see the covering has curdled where I was blasting it to straighten it at one point. I plan on flying it as-is, but if there's a chance it can be fixed easily I'll try it.
2. Any tips on creating bends at the right place for the linkages? Honestly, I would gladly pay an extra $10 for easier linkages. I'm afraid to just wing it, I've made mistakes before that caused my centering to be super off.
3. How are you all widening the servo horn to make room for the piano wire? The control surface horn?

I'd love to hear any thoughts about any of these that you may have. I'm looking forward to getting this thing in the air.

Thanks!

 

[stephensackro]

I didn't sand through the tri stock, that is how I want to see most of the tri stock after rounding. 90% should be in the form of dust on the ground.

If building an electric, I would suggest the larger spinner, and maybe a layer of extra balsa on the sides to allow more of a round shape there.

Plenty of room for wires! there is space top and bottom, just tight on the sides.

There is a set screw to loosen and a C-clip to remove before pressing the shaft. It is pretty simple. We hope to have a motor that is preconfigured eventually.

I finally started my Ridge Runt build. Very impressed with the quality of the balsa and the laser cutting. Mine will be the electric version using the Emax XA 2212/1400 motor. With a 8x4 folding prop, what would the amp pull be? I have a very early kit, one from the initial kits, and had you send me the revised former and servo mount for electrics. The revised servo mount looks to be just designed to install it anywhere back of the wing to get more room for the battery? I will have to side shim the mount if I put it just after the back of the wing. With the servo mounted there, using the Emax motor and 1000 mahr battery, how was the CG balance? On the elevator push/pull cable, are you supposed to glue the white inner plastic tube to the outer grey tube just letting the inner steel rod move or glue the inner white tube to the steel rod and let both the white tube and inner steel rod work as one? Do you have a foam wing designed yet? If so, what airfoil did you decide on?