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Ridge Runt Evo - Build Thread Comments
- Thread starter mjgillen
- Start date
This is the trailing edge for a Carolina Customs Altezza. It's balsa with a pre-cut 64-in ply plate on the bottom. It's probably completely Overkill on the Alteza since it's a rudder elevator airplane (it's a modernized Sagitta 900) and it's really not needed. However, it is still quite light and I could imagine it working pretty good on the Runt's ailerons.
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Really? Hmmm. I don’t recall ever seeing instructions so I could very well be installing them wrong.
I'll be curious to know what you do. Meanwhile, I was able to cleanly separate the the ply from that TE, and I might repurpose it. It's actually 1/32", but it's still very light.
Also, the servos that come with the RRE come with little plastic inserts to use in place of the grommits.
Yes I used them on the wing. Did not realize they were to be also used in the fuse.
Michael,
Think of the servo eyelet as a hollow nail, as you show it when you tighten the screw you drive the eyelet down into the
mounting material stiffening up the grommet and gradually destroying the mount.
Most servo companies show this in their instruction sheets.
Just a tip, not a critical statement.
Tom
Think of the servo eyelet as a hollow nail, as you show it when you tighten the screw you drive the eyelet down into the
mounting material stiffening up the grommet and gradually destroying the mount.
Most servo companies show this in their instruction sheets.
Just a tip, not a critical statement.
Tom
Thanks for the photos Wayne - helps a lot!
Ok now I get it. Makes sense. Not taken bad I need all the help I can get!
I finally got around to cover my wing. I'd say it came out pretty good. I used some hobby King covering that I had left over from an earlier project.
I did notice something that I was wondering might be addressed in future kits. The front of the wing only contacts the saddle on the spar and the leading edge. The covering between them just makes a straight line, so it does not conform to the saddle on the fuselage. Perhaps in the future a rib could be added here, or the print could be modified to include another rib in this area? I intend to fill this area on mine in the meantime.
I did notice something that I was wondering might be addressed in future kits. The front of the wing only contacts the saddle on the spar and the leading edge. The covering between them just makes a straight line, so it does not conform to the saddle on the fuselage. Perhaps in the future a rib could be added here, or the print could be modified to include another rib in this area? I intend to fill this area on mine in the meantime.
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If you ever make a foam core wing version, you might want to keep the fuselage the same.
With our electric testing we had that little wood wing fast and it was singing, and then a hard pull up that I thought could hurt that wing, but nope, no issues at all. That spar is pretty darn strong. Actually expected flutter to develop at high speed on the electric, but did fine. The thin AG airfoil lets her rip pretty fast. Makes me question the foam wing. I think I would actually use the same airfoil with foam cores. I'm really getting to like the AG flat bottoms a lot.
The big side is down so can't press into the tray, the small side is up and the screw rests against, making a solid spacer so you don't squish the grommet.
I took out the servo and replaced the rubber grommets with the plastic inserts.
I wanted to have adjustable clevis somewhere on the elevator push rod however the space did not allow. First I tried the clevis that comes with the Dream flight Alula/Libelle and there just was not enough space for it to travel to the rear. I decided to use a Z-bend as Wayne recommended and discovered that the cross arm I thought to use was not long enough and caused a bend in the push rod so I used to long horn and cut it down. From left to right: Dream Flight small clevis (Alula.Libelle), long servo arm, cross servo arm, and Dream Flight large clevis (Ahi, Weasel).
I managed to get the elevator Z-bends adequate. I'll know more when I test fly it tomorrow however it looks to be trim-able. I used the large DF clevises for the ailerons.
And I bought this $17 mini hand planer and tried it out. Never used one before. Worked very well especially on the aileron bevels.
Here it is all done and ready for a test flight. CG set at the spar, trims look good enough for a toss. This is the first kit I have built since building a Slope Master in 1990. Thanks Wayne and Aloft Hobbies!
Michael
I wanted to have adjustable clevis somewhere on the elevator push rod however the space did not allow. First I tried the clevis that comes with the Dream flight Alula/Libelle and there just was not enough space for it to travel to the rear. I decided to use a Z-bend as Wayne recommended and discovered that the cross arm I thought to use was not long enough and caused a bend in the push rod so I used to long horn and cut it down. From left to right: Dream Flight small clevis (Alula.Libelle), long servo arm, cross servo arm, and Dream Flight large clevis (Ahi, Weasel).
I managed to get the elevator Z-bends adequate. I'll know more when I test fly it tomorrow however it looks to be trim-able. I used the large DF clevises for the ailerons.
And I bought this $17 mini hand planer and tried it out. Never used one before. Worked very well especially on the aileron bevels.
Here it is all done and ready for a test flight. CG set at the spar, trims look good enough for a toss. This is the first kit I have built since building a Slope Master in 1990. Thanks Wayne and Aloft Hobbies!
Michael
Hey Wayne I ended up using a Z bend + 90 degrees on my elevator as well however I misjudged and am at the limit of my trim tab to get her to fly level. I need to make an adjustment .Which end do you recommend I mess with? The Z bend or the 90?
Thanks,
Michael
