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Ridge Runt Evo - Build Thread
- Thread starter Wayne
- Start date
My covering is a combination of Oracal vinyl, Monokote, Oracote, and Wainscote (the stuff rom Aloft)
Wayne,
How did you maintain the orientation of the flat spot on the motor shaft relative to the set screw?
Will it damage the motor if the shaft is tapped into place with a plastic mallet?
It also looks like the E clip is discarded, is this correct?
There were no mounting screws for the motor is this also correct?
Tom
How did you maintain the orientation of the flat spot on the motor shaft relative to the set screw?
Will it damage the motor if the shaft is tapped into place with a plastic mallet?
It also looks like the E clip is discarded, is this correct?
There were no mounting screws for the motor is this also correct?
Tom
Jarron
Very Strong User
oh, we didn't. This is a fairly low watt setup I came up with several years ago and have used in several aircraft with great sucess. It consumes all of 12A on 3s with the 7x4 foldy prop while still making an insane amount of thrust for lighter aircraft, it should go great on this ship. If the shaft is pressed with some care, for example with a vice or drill press like we did, there is no harm done, it really takes not as much effort as you think either with these little motors, so your mallet should do it. The spinner and collet take over the job of the e clip thingy.
Thanks guys, I got my kit yesterday and wanted to fit the motor up to the B1 mount/bulkhead to see how it looked.
Is there right thrust built in along with the down thrust? Do you folks solder up the motor to the ESC or use the
supplied bullet connectors? Do you shorten the wires a little? Also do you have the male connector to join with the battery? (XT30)?
Tom
Is there right thrust built in along with the down thrust? Do you folks solder up the motor to the ESC or use the
supplied bullet connectors? Do you shorten the wires a little? Also do you have the male connector to join with the battery? (XT30)?
Tom
Yes, we have XT30 connectors:
alofthobbies.com
I did not put in any right thrust, and I usually do not in my models. Have not seen a great need for it. If it is needed, then I will add a little spacer. This is one of the things I'll be looking at when we have her flying next week as an electric.
XT30 Connector Set
XT30... when a JST just doesn't carry enough amps and the XT60 is physically bigger than you would like to carry in your craft. No cheap knockoffs, these are genuine Amass. Sold as a single pair of connectors (one male, one female)
alofthobbies.com
I did not put in any right thrust, and I usually do not in my models. Have not seen a great need for it. If it is needed, then I will add a little spacer. This is one of the things I'll be looking at when we have her flying next week as an electric.
This will probably move earlier into the build order, but here it is now. Fitting the upper tail mount may require a little light sanding. We want this to be a nice snug fit, but not so snug that it is digging into the balsa. Here is a test fitting. Mine was a great fit. The upper tail mount is keys so it will only do on in one direction, the angled tooth goes to the rear.
To fully seat the upper tail mount invert the plane and push onto your build table.
We want the wood perfectly flush with the top of the tail mount. This sets the correct tail angle. When you are satisfied secure with thin CA by adding a small amount at the top along the wood, then flip it over and run some along the bottom of the plastic mount, but don't let any get into the nuts inside the screw holes. A small amount will do the trick.
Then we can cover right up to the edge of the upper tail mount.
I also covered the horizontal stabilizer and elevator.
To fully seat the upper tail mount invert the plane and push onto your build table.
We want the wood perfectly flush with the top of the tail mount. This sets the correct tail angle. When you are satisfied secure with thin CA by adding a small amount at the top along the wood, then flip it over and run some along the bottom of the plastic mount, but don't let any get into the nuts inside the screw holes. A small amount will do the trick.
Then we can cover right up to the edge of the upper tail mount.
I also covered the horizontal stabilizer and elevator.
Tahoed
Very Strong User
Any 1500-1875 watt 2 or 3 temp hairdryer should do it. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Conair-D..._kftXpc22sEaBiR-ZqqDCanKQmAyc71saAog8EALw_wcB
Oddly enough we have had a hard time stocking heat guns or covering irons for the hobby. We had some GREAT irons, but the company making them closed their doors. To bring in the good remaining units, the minimum order is more than I could sell in 5 years. Ouch. I have even tried to team up with other shops to meet this minimum, but our combined sales still make it a problem.
Like the hairdryer idea. Might end up with a better unit honestly.
Hinges - I think we used clear tape on the prototypes, but not sure what I'll do on this one. Tape is so simple and works well for this type of model. Might do the covering hinges.
Like the hairdryer idea. Might end up with a better unit honestly.
Hinges - I think we used clear tape on the prototypes, but not sure what I'll do on this one. Tape is so simple and works well for this type of model. Might do the covering hinges.
Before we cover the ailerons we need to sand a taper at about 30 degrees to allow the ailerons to move downward. Sand this onto the bottom of the aileron. Place your aileron on the edge of your work table and sand back and forth while holding the sanding block at an angle. Pay close attention so you do not over sand, or worse, sand a curve into the aileron.
It should look something like this:
When done, test fit the aileron into the wing, you may need to lightly sand the length to have a small gap to allow the aileron to freely move up and down after covering. Once done a light final sanding and you can cover.
Some random pictures of covering.
After I have the covering on both sides, and FULLY sealed on ALL edges I pick up the heat gun. Before shrinking:
After:
After shrinking with the heat gun, I run over all of the ribs and center sheeting with the iron, this glues the film down the the ribs. If you skip this step, you can expect your wing to warp on hot days. It also helps to limit damage should an accident occur.
Congratulations, your model should be fully covered now. I'll be adding some trim a bit later.
It should look something like this:
When done, test fit the aileron into the wing, you may need to lightly sand the length to have a small gap to allow the aileron to freely move up and down after covering. Once done a light final sanding and you can cover.
Covering the Wing
The wing should be final sanded and any glue bumps removed before covering. Start covering the bottom of the wing first. It works well to tack the covering to the wing tips at the spar location. Then come to the center of the wing, lift the covering some to cut small slits that align with the servo wire passages. Careful not to damage the servo wires. Then you can continue with the covering.Some random pictures of covering.
After I have the covering on both sides, and FULLY sealed on ALL edges I pick up the heat gun. Before shrinking:
After:
After shrinking with the heat gun, I run over all of the ribs and center sheeting with the iron, this glues the film down the the ribs. If you skip this step, you can expect your wing to warp on hot days. It also helps to limit damage should an accident occur.
Congratulations, your model should be fully covered now. I'll be adding some trim a bit later.
Shoelace
Very Strong User
Hey Wayne… I thought I goofed up by not adding the carbon pin before covering, but I see you actually said to wait until after it’s covered to do so. How do you recommend installation on this?
Also, I haven’t covered a model since 1987 or so and man, does it show. Sheesh.
Also, I haven’t covered a model since 1987 or so and man, does it show. Sheesh.
You can install the pin prior to covering, but I find it a bit easier to do it after. Simply cut a hole where the pin goes and slide it in. Prior to install, I like to put the pin into a drill chuck and spin it up and use a little sand paper to round the sharp edge that will be sliding into the fuselage, this will make it easier to align every time you go to install the wing. The pin goes pretty deep into the wing. If the fit is very tight, you may need to clean up the hole a bit with a drill bit.
I'm very sorry that my build has stalled out, I really need to knock out the rest for the documentation here.
I'm very sorry that my build has stalled out, I really need to knock out the rest for the documentation here.
Shoelace
Very Strong User
I'm sorry Wayne, this is probably a stupid question. You say, "Simply cut a hole where the pin goes and slide it in" When I built the wing, I never created a hole before I covered the wing. So am I drilling a hole into the leading edge and then through the plastic and then sliding in the pin there? I don't know how I would simply cut a hole and insert the pin.
Here are some photos to help you out:
Locate the 4mm carbon fiber pin. I like to chuck this up in a drill and bevel both ends so they will slip into the plastic parts nicer.
With it still in the drill you can locate the hole in the wing, trim the covering around the hole and spin the carbon pin into the wing. This goes in pretty deep. We want this connection tight. With the spinning of the drill and light pressure, it should go right in. (If the fit is really tight, you can open up the hole on the wing carefully with a drill bit, or lightly sand the carbon pin.)
It should look like this.
Please note that we have a different angle to this pin than many other planes you may have built. We do not need to glue this pin in, the snug fit should be plenty to keep it in place, but can be replaced should you manage to damage it.
Te B-2 bulkhead has a hole to receive this pin. You may need to clean up that hole with a 4mm drill bit, or again, light sanding on the pin. We want this connection loose enough to make removal of the wing easy, but snug enough that the wing is not able to move around on the pin.
Here you can see the wing pin just below the magnet. I think I need to push the pin further into the wing still, but already plenty strong.
Locate the 4mm carbon fiber pin. I like to chuck this up in a drill and bevel both ends so they will slip into the plastic parts nicer.
With it still in the drill you can locate the hole in the wing, trim the covering around the hole and spin the carbon pin into the wing. This goes in pretty deep. We want this connection tight. With the spinning of the drill and light pressure, it should go right in. (If the fit is really tight, you can open up the hole on the wing carefully with a drill bit, or lightly sand the carbon pin.)
It should look like this.
Please note that we have a different angle to this pin than many other planes you may have built. We do not need to glue this pin in, the snug fit should be plenty to keep it in place, but can be replaced should you manage to damage it.
Te B-2 bulkhead has a hole to receive this pin. You may need to clean up that hole with a 4mm drill bit, or again, light sanding on the pin. We want this connection loose enough to make removal of the wing easy, but snug enough that the wing is not able to move around on the pin.
Here you can see the wing pin just below the magnet. I think I need to push the pin further into the wing still, but already plenty strong.
