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Ridge Runt Evo - Build Thread Comments
- Thread starter mjgillen
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Tahoed
Very Strong User
Mine is balanced at 56mm which is the back end of the carbon spar. Middle of the spar to start should be fine for starters.
I just got the embiggened ailerons (thanks Wayne!). However, they do have quite a bit of span wise bowing in them. I had to sand the leading edges of the original 1" ailerons to get them to sit flat against the sub trailing edge of the wing, but these have quite a bit more bend. Before I take the sanding bar to them and losing more precious aileron chord length, does anyone have any other suggestions for getting them straightened out?
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Konrad suggests:
But the best way to deal with the stresses released in the shaping of lumber is to cut the aileron at about the 1/3 cord point (Thick side). Preload the two pieces and heal with thin CA. Keeping the two pieces down on the glass (building board) and there shouldn't be too much need to finish sand.
We have had pretty good luck spraying a bit of alcohol onto the wood and letting them dry while held in the correct shape. Have not tried this with aileron stock though.
Balsa will often times have some stresses like this. Some of the 1/16" sheets can be pretty wild, but a bit of care and it is great. It can be 100% perfect when it leaves our shop, but by the time it ships to a customer it can be all out of whack. We ship on a flat of cardboard to reduce this, but simple humidity changes can cause this. No different than a 2x4 from the lumber yard.
But the best way to deal with the stresses released in the shaping of lumber is to cut the aileron at about the 1/3 cord point (Thick side). Preload the two pieces and heal with thin CA. Keeping the two pieces down on the glass (building board) and there shouldn't be too much need to finish sand.
We have had pretty good luck spraying a bit of alcohol onto the wood and letting them dry while held in the correct shape. Have not tried this with aileron stock though.
Balsa will often times have some stresses like this. Some of the 1/16" sheets can be pretty wild, but a bit of care and it is great. It can be 100% perfect when it leaves our shop, but by the time it ships to a customer it can be all out of whack. We ship on a flat of cardboard to reduce this, but simple humidity changes can cause this. No different than a 2x4 from the lumber yard.
I'm not clear on this...So are you saying to cut a slot on the leading edge of the aileron, sized a third of the way into the cord (toward the TE)?
Lay the trailing edge down on your work table, cut straight down about 1/3 back towards the skinny end. Now pin it all straight on the building board and reglue with thin CA or wood glue.
I have not used this method, but this is what Konrad likes to do when he runs into this. The glue joint will hold it all nice and straight.
I have not used this method, but this is what Konrad likes to do when he runs into this. The glue joint will hold it all nice and straight.
Well, now I'm even more confused. Are you supposed to cut from the trailing edge of the aileron?
Red
Very Strong User
From the thick part (LE) 1/3 of the way back towards the thin part (TE) spanwise with the grain. For extra stiffness I have inserted 1/64th ply, but totally overkill in this case.
That's what I'm doing now, but so far after 24 hours, I don't see much difference. I tried using alcohol, but I may switch to my old standby, amonia.
On one of the ailerons, I'd probably have to lose at least 1/16" or more to sand it straight.
Yeah, I could make up for the lost chord by adding some wood the leading edge after I sand it (though that would mean the trailing edge was still curved...not that it would really affect anything).
I'd still like to straighten it, if possible, though.
Just to see if I'm understanding this correctly...I've got this scrap piece of aileron stock that's roughly the same size as the 1.25" RRe stuff. I've marked a spanwise line 1/3 of the way out from the leading edge (the thick part). So, the next step is to cut it into two separate pieces along that line? Then take the first piece (the 1/3 part) and pin it straight to the board, removing any curvature. Next, pin the 2/3 piece to that, also removing any curve. Glue. Did I get that right?
Sorry to make this overly complicated. I might try it on this test piece first if I've got the steps correctly here.
Sorry to make this overly complicated. I might try it on this test piece first if I've got the steps correctly here.
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Red
Very Strong User
No, don’t split it all the way,stop short say 1” from each end. Glue it, I like aliphatic resin (wood glue), to give you some time to clamp it flat between waxed paper.
Shoelace
Very Strong User
From the picture that was my thought as well. That balsa is so soft that I think you could glue and then just sand for a couple minutes and it would fill that gap. Maybe I would have to see it in person to check if that was a decent solution.
