What's new
Aloft Forums

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Show us what you are working on..

bracesport

Very Strong User
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
310
Reaction score
146
This morning I tapered the middle to the tips to thin the overall wing thickness (15mm @root and 8mm @tip) - the sanding all went pretty well.

Next, I laminated the tops and bottoms with 3M77 and applied some sandbags - I then taped the two wings back to back while the glue cures over the weekend.

The paper will come off before I add the spar - I also left some TE thickness for some final sanding before the skins go on (insurance against damage).

IMG_9462.JPG
IMG_9463.JPG
IMG_9464.JPG
IMG_9465.JPG
IMG_9466.JPG
IMG_9467.JPG
 

bracesport

Very Strong User
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
310
Reaction score
146
I also did a bit of work on my pylon racer turned sloper - I have been hankering to add some flaps to to slow it down with crow - well, the flaps and servos are in and it's all looking pretty good - I used my micro cable tie hinges again. :)

IMG_9479.JPG
IMG_9480.JPG
IMG_9481.JPG
IMG_9482.JPG
IMG_9483.JPG
312196_7d6ed355138f6a24b181a3b33445ce2a.jpeg
312243_ea27f9f8c1e454288ab99895deea6c18.jpeg
312244_929d89abb29dadb7dcb503cd5544c765.jpeg
312246_5217107b4eda088d0c79551efcb53ad4.jpeg
 

Wayne

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Messages
7,856
Solutions
2
Reaction score
4,580
Location
Novato, CA USA
That a pretty wild tail. :)

Nate - I have watched several of your wire cutting videos and I don't fully understand the methods you are using. I usually blocked my foam and then cut the wing. Some entry to normalize the wire temp was the common method before CNC, but with CNC I am not used to seeing that used. You should be cutting the foam via the heat from the wire, not actually from the wire. It seems that the foam is moving from wire contact with the foam?? It looks like your foams are cutting well not too much in the way of waves.

If you sign down your trailing edge, is it nice and straight, or does it have some curve? Same with the leading edge? If you have any curve, then you are dragging the wire through the foam. I don't know if you can control the kerf with your software? Are you able to control the heat on the wire?

I think Martin said he was using nichrome wire (spelling?) I remember playing with that stuff long ago and it caused many issues. We all started using stainless steel wire and never looked back. The nice thing is you can pull more tension, lasts longer, usually costs less, and use thicker wire. Might be worth a little investigation.

Does you software have different presets for different foam types?

I will add that I was never very good at this, mostly replied on my buddies. Last time I cut a core was a very long time ago.
 

thenated0g

Very Strong User
Joined
Dec 5, 2017
Messages
2,780
Reaction score
2,573
Location
Lakeport, ca
@Wayne No problem, but Man i have got so many comments about the drag lol. Its not a problem at all. If you watch the video its always at the end once the cut is done and over. Here's what's happening. I am using Rene 41 27g wire. Its a crazy small kerf, like 2mm. Its not touching the foam. the Rigid brand foam surface is coated with either a slippery plastic on one side or the slippery foil on the other. Its sitting on perfectly smooth mdf. Its so little friction that i put that stone turtle on top so that a tiny bump in the table doesn't misalign the foam. Its that sensitive. So i can tell you that the foam is not dragging at all.....on the first time it cuts thru the foam at least. When it is dragging is when it is coming back thru a place it has already cut, because its done with the cut. The path i have programmed uses the same exact horizontal cut to enter and exit the foam. The foam, when cut, goes from a nice fluffy material to harder thicker material. It has been cut and shrunk back. That precut material would require a hotter wire to recut. (does that make sense?)

I don't make any adjustments to the cutting files for different foam, i use power output to adjust. I keep a mental note of the Amps for each type of foam. The white fluffy stuff i cut at about 1.35 amps and around 25v. The Pink and similar im cutting at 1.5amps. The software i am using (devWing foam) has a smart kerf feature that takes into account the fact that the wire will moving slower on the wingtips, allowing more heat/energy into the foam, and adjust accordingly to move the cutting path a little farther away so the final result matches the design.

Rene wire is a super alloy made specifically for high tension under heat. Its an interesting read.

On the other hand, even though i have been cutting stuff nonstop like a mad scientist the last few weeks, im still a newb and appreciate all your comments. Im still figuring this all out "the hard way" mostly by myself so your input is always appreciated.
 

thenated0g

Very Strong User
Joined
Dec 5, 2017
Messages
2,780
Reaction score
2,573
Location
Lakeport, ca
" René 41 is a nickel-based high temperature alloy developed by General Electric. It retains high strength in the 1,200–1,800 °F (600–1,000 °C) temperature range. It is used in jet engine and missile components, and other applications that require high strength at extreme temperatures. René 41 is considered a nickel alloy based upon its chemical composition.[1] "
 

thenated0g

Very Strong User
Joined
Dec 5, 2017
Messages
2,780
Reaction score
2,573
Location
Lakeport, ca
This is the spring i am using. I cannot pull this apart with my bare hands, i had to use some zip ties to pull this apart as seen. So that wire is under a ton of tension while cutting.
1593561532557.png
 

bracesport

Very Strong User
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
310
Reaction score
146
Well I unwrapped my fuse and it's not too bad - CF braid over a 0.8mm 3D printed fuse - I also used a 3D printed canopy edge former to push in the joggled edge - I always knew I would have to do a bit of sanding, but with the 3D printed tail dry fitted it is starting to look like a fast glider - I will bring a proper canopy that will be flush with the fuse! :)

312632_30348b09f694c3b0ed98a896d33f271b.jpg
312634_85e9fe2dd0bf7fc895825432e60cdfe1.jpg
312638_4dbe0a8495cf4bc316e69a35cdbc743b.jpg
312639_83686cc00464d44aa79572eef2c8bf3b.jpg
312640_8ba0f3a25ba594177b513c8609e6118b.jpg
 

Wayne

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Messages
7,856
Solutions
2
Reaction score
4,580
Location
Novato, CA USA
Never been a fan of those pop up canopy brakes. Maybe some have had good luck, but generally just makes the plane very unstable.

Nate - I had bought some of that René wire, but never actually used it. Sounds like the software is doing things pretty well for you. I will say the wire temp control on my old machine was a very nice feature, but not sure many software packages can support it. It basically does the same as you, it monitors the amperage and adjusts. I had noticed most of the movement was at the lead out. I just never used such a large lead, almost always blocked to the airfoil, but this means you have to adjust for the kerf in the cut. The wire super heats when not cutting, and then cools as it enters the foam. (I know you know all of this, just saying it for others that may be reading along.)

Maybe you can start making some Slope Money kits for me. I have the rights from Adam to produce the kits again. They were a really fun little EPP plane. Would be really fun in pink foam - so light!
 

thenated0g

Very Strong User
Joined
Dec 5, 2017
Messages
2,780
Reaction score
2,573
Location
Lakeport, ca
Never been a fan of those pop up canopy brakes. Maybe some have had good luck, but generally just makes the plane very unstable.

Nate - I had bought some of that René wire, but never actually used it. Sounds like the software is doing things pretty well for you. I will say the wire temp control on my old machine was a very nice feature, but not sure many software packages can support it. It basically does the same as you, it monitors the amperage and adjusts. I had noticed most of the movement was at the lead out. I just never used such a large lead, almost always blocked to the airfoil, but this means you have to adjust for the kerf in the cut. The wire super heats when not cutting, and then cools as it enters the foam. (I know you know all of this, just saying it for others that may be reading along.)

Maybe you can start making some Slope Money kits for me. I have the rights from Adam to produce the kits again. They were a really fun little EPP plane. Would be really fun in pink foam - so light!
This is fun time for me and foam is cheap. Pm me the info and I can at least get some test cuts done to see.
 

Wayne

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Messages
7,856
Solutions
2
Reaction score
4,580
Location
Novato, CA USA
Don't worry about it. Just throught I would throw it out there in case you were interested in production. I still have a number of prototypes I need to put together and test fly. :)
 

bracesport

Very Strong User
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
310
Reaction score
146
some wing action

Wave spar halves are set and now the wing halves are being epoxied together - I am using a poor mans version of Doc J's SWS spar system - I also built some wing tubes with magnets embedded, and printed the wing end caps - next step will be to fit the wing tubes. :)

312891_6fdcd11b56cda4a2f4aad9b4e3bc1674.jpg
312892_5043b857f5440adbc2b35e7f16248fac.jpg
312901_3123850545b03ad142c6e7b7e82a01d6.jpg
312902_17b5e7dd5aea8ac94009f98ae63e1d36.jpg
 

bracesport

Very Strong User
Joined
Dec 14, 2019
Messages
310
Reaction score
146
@Konrad - I will be using the CF wing skins to cap the spar with a double thickness from the root to about half way.
 
Top