Which 2-3 meter electro thermal glider for chilling out on a beautiful day?

[Wayne]

With flaps that can hit the ground it is common place to lift them just before the plane touches down. This is something I have always done, and never killed a flap servo. I will admit I got lucky a time or two when I threw the flaps down instead of up, or was a little slow on the up command, but I rarely use an X08 on flaps as most of my planes are larger, heavier slope gliders.

When I'm using music wire for a control surface linkage, I like to use a small enough wire that it can bow if it takes a sharp hit. Saves gears and hinges. I for sure like to do this on combat models. A slight "V" bent into the wire can also act as a simple spring, but for flap, the setup Konrad shows in pretty clean and I have seen it in action when he flew here at the shop and landed with full down flap. Thought for sure his servos would be dead, but then he showed off the spring.

It is optional for sure, but probably well worth the time and trouble.

 

[WimH]

I combed around https://www.rc-network.de/ but could not find the thread.. I know they have it there somewhere.

Probably here :

Django neon von Sansibear

Hallo. Der Djnago Classic und der Django EVO/NEON unterscheiden sich. Im Falle des Django Classic war/ist VP (Vladimir Papirnik) der Hersteller. Er hat sich das Modell mal ausgedacht. wir haben das Modell mit ihm zusammen in den vergangenen Jahren so weit fortentwickelt, daß wir als Hersteller...

www.rc-network.de

There is an instruction PDF (in German of course) in there : https://sansibear.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Sansibear-Django-Neon-Bauanleitung-v2.pdf
It is my favourite model , using it in F5J contests

 

[Aviphysics]

Hi Avi! Looking good! I meant to get you those build photos from the manufacturer over the weekend, but those were on my work computer. Check your email in a bit.

Received. Thank you!

 

[Aviphysics]

It is optional for sure, but probably well worth the time and trouble.

I have a bit of tube that might work. I will take a look at it.

 

[Aviphysics]

Hi Avi! Looking good! I meant to get you those build photos from the manufacturer over the weekend, but those were on my work computer. Check your email in a bit.

I didn't think to put the spars in the vertical stabilizer. I wonder how important that is, as I am not super enthusiastic about trying to add them now.

How far do you think they stick through the stabilizer?

 

[Aviphysics]

Probably here :

Django neon von Sansibear

Hallo. Der Djnago Classic und der Django EVO/NEON unterscheiden sich. Im Falle des Django Classic war/ist VP (Vladimir Papirnik) der Hersteller. Er hat sich das Modell mal ausgedacht. wir haben das Modell mit ihm zusammen in den vergangenen Jahren so weit fortentwickelt, daß wir als Hersteller...

www.rc-network.de

There is an instruction PDF (in German of course) in there : https://sansibear.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Sansibear-Django-Neon-Bauanleitung-v2.pdf
It is my favourite model , using it in F5J contests

Interesting. These instructions just attach the vertical stabilizer directly to the boom without a spar, so I guess it isn't strictly necessary.

The sansibar video of the new version does seem to have the vert stab spars though.

I wonder if those are just to ensure solid attachment. I think my stabilizer would probably fail before the epoxy. They used CA in those instructions, which I don't think I would trust as much.

 

[Wayne]

I'm not sure I understand what you are asking about.

Konrad points out that the vertical is a stressed skin structure and should be treated as such. This means the outer skin needs to be glued to the fuselage tube with a good epoxy and some cab-o-sil.

In looking at the pictures I think you are asking about the alignment pins? The carbon pins that exit the bottom of the vertical?

Did you already glue the vertical in place?

Photos of what you are doing will help us understand what you are referencing.

 

[Aviphysics]

I'm not sure I understand what you are asking about.

Konrad points out that the vertical is a stressed skin structure and should be treated as such. This means the outer skin needs to be glued to the fuselage tube with a good epoxy and some cab-o-sil.

In looking at the pictures I think you are asking about the alignment pins? The carbon pins that exit the bottom of the vertical?

Did you already glue the vertical in place?

Photos of what you are doing will help us understand what you are referencing.

I already attached the stabilizer to the tail. With care, I could probably remove it. I could probably also use a pin vice to drill through and add the pins without removing the stabilizer.

• In the build guide from WimH for the old Django they don't have any pins, so maybe they aren't necessary.
• If the pins aren't necessary for rigidity, I could just add a reinforcing bead of epoxy and call it good.

BTW, is the boom supposed to remain removable, or should it be epoxied to the fuselage?

Below is from the photos that Jarron sent me they put pins in the vertical stabilizer.

 

[MartinH]

Looks like a nice plane

I'd retro fit the pins by drilling from below, but I'm a belt and braces kind of person.

Martin

 

[Wayne]

No pins needed. You could actually make things worse by adding the pins as you could pull foam away from the skins.

Yes a reinforcing bead of epoxy will do the trick.

Yes, the boom gets glued to the fuselage.

Glue the fuselage nacelle to the fuselage tube: Roughen the bonding surfaces of the fuselage tube and nacelle. Apply epoxy to the bonding surfaces. Screw the wings onto the fuselage nacelle. Slide the fuselage tube onto the nacelle. Insert the control cables into the nacelle. Carefully rotate the fuselage tube to align the main wings precisely perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer.