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Which 2-3 meter electro thermal glider for chilling out on a beautiful day?

Aviphysics

New User
Hi,

I have been wanting a good thermal for electro glider for chilling on a nice day.

I'm currently flying an old beat up Multiplex Easy Glider. I like to slow fly and search for thermals with it, but would like something that is just a bit more of efficient and can stay up on less optimal thermals.

Budget wise, I had been looking at the 2.5 meter Django, but wanted to make sure that it would be the kind of glider I want or find out if there is a better option.
 
Hard to go wrong with the Django. They are beautiful planes and fly even better. It is a very good choice, I plan to add one to my fleet one of these days.
 
Hard to go wrong with the Django. They are beautiful planes and fly even better. It is a very good choice, I plan to add one to my fleet one of these days.
Is it okay to come by the warehouse for pickup these days? I haven't been since Aloft moved locations.
 
Sure. Come on by. We will be in the warehouse.
Starting to figure out the build. Are there any build logs/threads you would recommend checking out?

I'm not totally clear on how to assemble the servo tray and where it is supposed to sit in the fuse.
 

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Seems like it is about like this. Still trying to figure out the cable rooting though.

I'm guessing the cables are supposed to be strapped to the backside of the servo tray, is that right? If not, what is the backside for?
 

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This might help:

apriliamille had a tough time with his build, but you can probably learn a bit from his thread. The Cubic is te big brother of the Django.

There is a good build thread on one of the German forums, but having a hard time finding it right now.
 
This might help:

apriliamille had a tough time with his build, but you can probably learn a bit from his thread. The Cubic is te big brother of the Django.

There is a good build thread on one of the German forums, but having a hard time finding it right now.
Please let me know if you find it. I'm still not sure what that rectangle piece is for.

I got through cutting this little slot this morning. Was a little fiddly. If someone else finds it helpful, I took the following steps.
1) I attached the vertical stabilizer first, as I felt like it could be difficult to both align it to the horizontal and make sure it is fully seated at the same time. This made cutting the notch for the elevator control a little harder.
2) attached horiz stab to mount and marked how far forward the mount needs to be with paint pen.
3) Marked area on tube around where slot needs to be with paint pen, placed mount on tube using mark from (2), and by hand slotted a small drill bit through the mount to scrape the paint where the slot should start
4) drilled a small pilot hole just in front of where paint was scraped.
5) used drill bit, a bit of a jig saw blade, and sand paper to lengthen slot; remarking like (3) as needed until bowden fit without kinking.
6) sanded and cleaned carbon tube to prepfor glueing.
7) remounted horiz. stab to allow alignment for final glue up.

I am using gflex epoxy for the glue. I have used it on other things and it gives a really durable joint that won't crack. It maybe just needs a little more attention to avoid adding extra weight. It also gives a lot more time to mess around with alignment than CA.
 

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I hope I have the right spacing between the elevator and rudder. I could only guess by eyeballing some of the photos I found online.

It looked like they are often built with about a finger width between the two.

I'm guessing it is fine as long as they aren't rubbing.

BTW, I still don't know what the rectangular piece is for.
 

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For the motor mount, I decided to not worry about the gap. Seems like the collet has plenty of shaft to grip on.

To align and clamp the motor mount, I attached the motor, and prepped the gluing surface on the carbon with a light sanding and IPA wipe. Then applied a thin coat of epoxy to the carbon, shoved the motor in, pressed on the spinner, and tighten the collet to clamp everything in place.

With a little fiddling I was able to get everything firmly held in place and spinner well aligned to the fuse this way.

When the left over epoxy was firm but still just slightly pliable, I removed the spinner and repositioned it with a small gap to verify it spun true to the front of the fuse. It all looked good, so I reclamped the motor with the collet so it couldn't drift and let it cure all the way.

The next day it all looked good.
 

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Last edited:
I'm also not sure what this piece is for.
I'm told this is a brace to keep the 6 pin connector from being pushed into the fuselage when installing the wings at the field.

Same person thinks you may have the servo tray and bulkhead upside down relative to one another.

Another note, He likes what VP Models does with the receiver. It is tied to the servo tray not the cables, this allows the receiver to come out with the servos should they need servicing.

You can bring the wing wire loom forward through the arch, but he found that a bit messy with the wires going over the servos.

Hope this helps. I have not built one myself.
 
That make sense about the wing plugs.

For the bulkhead and servo arrangement, I was basing it off of the DJango Bubble video, though you can't fully see the bulkead. The video is showing a pre built glider, but I don't know if VP or someone else built it.

I'm curious where one attaches the bowden if not to the slots in the bulkhead.
 

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From Konrad:
Yes, the Bowden tubes are encapsulated in the slots after their location is found using the 5mm or 6mm servo arms. I’d like to see that there be an undercutting of the wing skin to allow the formation of an epoxy bead between the lower skin and servo well liner (servo mount). Also suggest that the flap push rods be manufactured with over ride springs.
 

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Thanks.

I also mounted some of the control horns today, but only documented the slot for the rudder bowden.

Position of the slot is based on the pre built Bubble Glider video on YouTube.

Will try to remember to document one of the other control horns.
 

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I think the linkage for a spring override pushrod would need a hook between the two haves that would allow the servos to positively engage when pulling flaps down, but compress when pushing flaps up.

If using a simple zbent music wire, I think a similar result could be achieved by putting a slight curve on the wire, so it will be inclined to bow when pushing the flap up.

Though I don't think the Django has a hard stop on pushing flaps up, so maybe not really a problem. Also, the KST servo end points can be programmed to provide further protection against over extension.
 
Oh. I see now that he did that to protect the servo if the flap catches during landing. Interesting.

KST says that the x08 plus is supposed to have an improved gear train. I guess I will test that and consider the spring override if necessary. I'm somewhat worried that poorly executing that concept could be catastrophic.

 
Hi Avi! Looking good! I meant to get you those build photos from the manufacturer over the weekend, but those were on my work computer. Check your email in a bit.
 
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