Upgrading transmitter / receiver to 20th century ;)

[Camano]

Hi Wayne (and nice to "meet" you),

Do you have any comments or suggestions regarding my shopping list above? I'll be buying it from Aloft as soon as I'm sure I'm getting what I need.

And thanks for your comments.

Darrell

 

[Konrad]

The XM+ is to address the fade issues often seen with 2.4 gHz radios. It has nothing (or little) to do with carbon in the structure. The carbon issues are best dealt with by moving the antennae outside the carbon fuselage or wings.

The sliders are used for any proportional input you may want to use. I fly High Powered electric sailplanes (Hotliners). As such I want a lot more control of the motor than what we normally get with switches and ramp up speed setting in the ESC. So my left slider is usually my motor control. I also like to fine tune my full wing trailing edge camber setting depending on the atmospheric condition. So I often use the right slider for trailing edge articulation (camber control).

I use the "Normal" Throttle stick to activate and control the Crow (Butterfly) function. Crow is when both ailerons go up acting like spoilers and the flaps come way down acting like air brakes. I want the larger movement of the throttle stick to gain much higher resolution than one would normally get with sliders. This is important when close to the ground and at slow speeds. Crow works just like power when dealing with glide slope control, only we are controlling drag not thrust.

When landing with a power model if you are going to come up short you move the throttle stick forward. If landing long you cut back on the throttle (lower the stick). The same thing happens with a Cow setup. If landing short you move the "throttle" stick forward to remove the drag causing the plane to jump forward. If overshooting the landing zone you lower the "throttle" stick to add more drag by allowing the crow flaps to move down closer to 90°.

This makes both the "glider" and "powered" models feel the same on landing approach. This means you don't need to develop new muscle memory responses for ether type of model.

I also use sliders for spoiler control. I use rotary pots for compensation adjustment in the program (differential, elevator, motor comp etc.).

All the best,
Konrad

 

[Konrad]

Hey Konrad, I'm curious -- What do you use the side sliders for with a glider? Maybe camber adjustment?

The QX7s is the TX I'm thinking I will get; you said you would most miss the side sliders, but since I can't figure out what I'd use them for, I guess I won't miss them! I think I'll keep flaps on the left stick (where I've always had it) and put trailing edge reflex on a switch (I treat reflex as "all or nothing" anyway, so I'd rather put it on a switch than try to have fine control).

Here's the setup I'm considering. Any comments? Am I missing anything, or any upgrades that I should consider? I'm starting with just a glider with installed servos, and will purchase this:

• QX7S
• RX6R receiver (although I am considering the G-RX6 for better future flexibility)
• XM+ for redundancy
• FVAS-02H high-precision vario
• 4 x AAA NiMH battery pack (1000 mAh)
• Charge switch
• Maybe (or maybe later): GPS sensor

Do I need a separate sensor for RX battery voltage? It looks like that is built-in if I'm reading it correctly. And the RX will also report signal strength, right?

I wonder if the XM+ is overkill since there's not a speck of carbon fiber in this old glider -- all fiberglass and wood. But I guess it's cheap insurance.

Happy flying!

Darrell

QX7 sounds just about perfect for you. (Why the "S") The only down side I see is that there is no slider for a motor. But with OpenTX you can assign the "throttle trim lever" as the motor control. And leave the "throttle stick" for control of the crow function (should you want to move into the 21st century with glider programing mixes)

Don't forget the manual

Taranis Q X7 & X-lite OpenTX User Manual

The Taranis Q X7 Open TX 2.2 user manual is intended be a hands on, in the field or in the shop reference guide.Author, Lothar Thole has done an excellent job presenting the Taranis X7 and OpenTX in a comprehensive and concise format, rich with graphics a

alofthobbies.com

With the G-XXX Rx's you don't need the FVAS-02H Vario

Get whatever battery will fit and help with the nose weight for balancing

I'd like to see you get the XM+

I like these as radio on off switches

Zepsus

Zepsus magnetic power switches allow your RC model to be turned on or off without your need to access it internally.

alofthobbies.com

I see no need for GPS.

All the best,
Konrad

 

[Camano]

"With the G-XXX Rx's you don't need the FVAS-02H Vario." My impression is that the FVAS-02H is a more responsive vario and has much less tendency to drift compared to the ones which are built into the G-XXX receivers (in addition to having more meaningful altitude readings). Do you have experience with the FVAS-02H?

I will definitely get the XM+ as you recommend, and I will skip the GPS. Thanks!

But for the question "Why the S?" (rather than QX7), honestly I don't have a very good answer, and I'm not completely settled on that. For one thing, I can't tell for sure what all the differences are, which is why I ask! Here's what I think (might be wrong on some of these):

• People who compare them say that the gimbal feel is significantly better, and of course I have no evidence to the contrary since I've never used either one. (The gimbals on my old Airtronics PCM TX feel very similar to those on a JR XG11; it would be sad to get a new TX and have it feel cheap compared to what I'm used to!)
• Aloft's website shows that the S comes with a case, but the QX7 does not appear to include any case.
• Does either version come with a battery? At one point I read somewhere that the S includes battery and charger but the regular QX7 does not; but maybe this is wrong.

Thanks again.

Darrell

 

[Konrad]

Yes, I have both Varios. I find that the experience is close to the same with both. No, I haven't actually run controlled test on each. Like I said I don't like Varios as I find myself flying the tone rather than the glider.

For the cost of the QX7S you can upgrade to the X9D with sliders. On the subject of gimbals I've used the stock pot gimbals on the X9D for close to 5 years with no issues at all. Not that I needed to, but I converted to hall effect gimbals just because I could. The feel of the TX was/is the same in my hands.

What most folks feel as being a nice TX in the store is actually the TX weight. But out in the field this weight quickly becomes a liability. The only gimbals I've had any issues with were the old Futaba "closed gimbals" and toy grade stuff.

The QX7 is a great entry level TX.

I had an Airtronics PCM radio in the late 80's. I don't recall the gimbals being special. (This was again an entry level TX no mixing, as I recall)
I dumped Airtronics and Futaba as these brands did not play well with others. Airtronics had that awful large servo connector with its odd wiring. Futaba had the neg shift data pulse.

 

[Konrad]

Whenever I start a new hobby I don't try to future proof my purchases. I do look for what I need now. I also look at what the secondary market looks to be supporting should I sell this entry level equipment.

I find that the bottom end entry level stuff has almost no resale value. But the "higher end" entry level stuff will have a resale value higher than the added cost of moving up to the higher end entry level equipment.

So while I think the Taranis 9X-light is more than adequate for your current glider and near term glider purchases. I think the Qx7 will have a bit better resale price should you want to sell it for a higher end more capable TX. But with the QX7S I don't think almost adding double to the price of a new TX will be recuperated in the secondary market.

Now you are in an odd situation being a known RC pilot. You are pretty sure of your commitment to the hobby. But you don't know about modern sailplanes and modern programing. So there is still a risk that you won't like adapting to these new variables.

As an experienced flier, if you are looking for a life time purchase then the higher mid range or even the high end radios make sense.

"I" don't like to purchase used entry level stuff as I fear the stuff has been abused as part of the other guy's learning curve.

I'd get the QX7 to start with. And after a while I'd upgrade the QX7 to an "S" standard if I still wanted/liked the features of the QX7 but want a little more. But in short order I think you will want to move up to radios that have more, like side sliders and the latest flexibility.

All the best,
Konrad

 

[Wayne]

Sorry, I missed this thread for a few days..

I fly the X7S and I love my radio. If you don't need side sliders it is a great option. Some of the changes between the X7 and the X7S are the battery pack, hcarger, travel case and some cosmetic changes along with higher quality switches and the hall effect gimbals. All in all, you get a fair bit of refinement and useful items.

I REALLY like the glider 6 receivers and use them when and where I can. I love the size and form factor. When they are sold out here (it happens) I have used the RX6R and I like that one a lot also. Honestly never had a bad FrSky receiver, but these newer variants listed here have about 20% more range and are much smaller than the earlier generations.

Hope this helps.

 

[Konrad]

How does the QX7S stack up against the X9D these are at the same price point, and both have the Jr module bay?

BTW; I still love my 5 year old X9D, this is why I keep upgrading her. I also keep upgrading my X9E. I do like the size of the QX7 and if I wasn't so dependent on the sliders I might get a QX7 as a back pack TX. It is because of the size issue that I still keep my Multiplex Royal Evo 12 current. Multiplex has face sliders. I think it was Jr that first put the sliders on the side.

 

[Wayne]

I prefer the X7S over the X9D+, but it really depends on what you like in a radio. I wanted a newer look, lighter package and I like the feel of the radio in my hands. I also liked my X9D+, flew it a long time.

All honesty, everytime I play with a new FrSky radio I want to swap over to it. I had a very hard time picking between the X7 and the X10. For the type of flying I like, and for my personality, I feel the X7S is a better option. (I don't need a big fancy radio. I think it is kind of fun when the owner of a hobby shop does not have a huge super fancy radio.)

-Wayne

 

[HENNY]

Hi Camano I use both the the RX6R and GRX8/6R receivers both of these receivers have noticeable better reception range over the older X6R etc receivers. The new RX6R and GX8R/6R receivers etc have a small white connector which supports an Analog input labeled A2. This is what you would use to measure your Lipo battery voltage with a suitable voltage divider, this divider only cost a couple of dollars. Don't connect voltage to this input without pre conditioning the Lipo pack voltage for 2S, 3S, 4S etc. In your gliders case since you are directly powering off 4.8 to 6 volt flight pack you wont need to do anything as this voltage is already fully supported. The G series receivers come with a Barometer which you can setup on your radio to provide audio feedback when ascending / descending as well as alt call outs. I use one of these on my Bixler and all the guys at the field ask me how do you that. I have considered running a redundant receiver but honestly it has not been necessary. The range of the XM series receivers as far as I understand it is not up to the new RX6R etc receivers. Actually reception is all about antenna location and orientation. If its your birthday soon buy the Horus X10S, or buy it for your partner and you can look after it, you wont regret it. Henny

 

[Camano]

Thanks Henny! (Not sure how I missed your post; I thought I was checking every day.) I appreciate the feedback that you haven't needed a redundant receiver; other people have said the same. But since the XM+ is so affordable, and I'll end up just putting the equivalent weight of lead in the nose if I DON'T get it, I think I'll consider it to be insurance (if nothing else, redundant antennas to put in different orientations) and include it anyway.

Thanks to all for the advice. I did some hand-tosses this morning to make sure the thing still flies before investing in new radio equipment for it, and everything looks good. I should be placing my order soon!

Darrell