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TopModel Samsara 3.2 meter glider, build thread on Aloft's Forum.

Gotcha sorry I went astray there...must be old age..o_O. Well in a perfect situation I guess the rudder should have two seals. For convenience I make them like the wings - 1 hinge and 1 seal. Its not perfect as the hinge is offset but it really does save a hell of a lot of time end effort. But it still does the job pretty well even if you do end up with a slightly asymmetric rudder. To be honest I think the solution used on moulded planes - hinge/wiper - is still better than any you have drawn above.
 
Nothing to appoligize for. I was just repurposing my cartoon as I knew photos often are not as clear and concise as a well drawn drawing.

Really, a $3,000 molded airframe is better than a $400 balsa woodie?:unsure:

P.S.
I know it is open for debate wether my drawings are well done or just half baked.:rolleyes:
 
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As mentioned earlier I think carbon canopies are a very bad idea with todays modern 2.4 gHz radios.
I used the factory supplied carbon canopy to pull a glass canopy. Yes, it was quick and dirty as the inside of the factory canopy really isn't well suited for pulling off glass parts.

With any luck I'll be able to test fly my Samsara on Wednesday. All I have left is to install some alignment pins battery hold down straps and battery stops, 2 hours tops. I hope to have the epoxy curing over night!
Canopy Sam.jpg
 
Well it took me 4 hours to do what I initially thought would take 2 hours max. I have no idea where the time went. But she is now ready for her maiden flight. She is weighing in at 2050 grams with the center of gravity being at 87mm (manual states it should be placed at 75mm). The weight gain was do to having to go with a 365 gram battery to reach this CofG.
I'm initially using an Aeronaut 15 x 13 drawing 37 amps with the battery at nominal voltage (14.8). I do have positive thrust at zero velocity. After trimming I will likely change to a 16 x 13 prop drawing about 42 amps
Actually dropped the pitch speed after flight testing. Now using a 17x9 prop.

Power system is geared 6.7:1 Hacker A30-18M outrunner controlled by a Castle Creation Talon 60 driven by a four cell Tattu 3700mAh battery.

https://alofthobbies.com/tattu-3700-4s-45c.html

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The good the bad and the ugly.

The good news is that neutral center of gravity trim is at 90 mm She flew very nice at 87mm for the trim flights. With the center of gravity set at the proper 87mm the stabilizer rocker bed should be set at 20mm (NOT the 22.5mm indicated in the manual).She hand launches real smooth. With the center of gravity at 87mm there was no need for downward elevator comp with throttle up. The use of down motor comp was a problem, see flutter issue.

Before I go any further I need to thank Brian Chan for being my helper. Brian is one of the better glider jocks around here. His help was invaluable in getting as much data as I did during these test flight

The bad news is that my set of wings appear to be rather soft (lacking torsional rigidity). All four test flight were flirting with flutter. My first power up after launch had some down compensation. This allowed the aircraft to gain too much speed very quickly. The whole wing center section flutterred along the spar (back side of the D tube) so that the TE moved about 100mm total up and down. The wing should have exploded. The flutter did break loose the flap servos.

Prior to the flutter it was noticed that there was no response to the ailerons under power and almost no response when the power was off. She did respond to coupled rudder and aileron when power was off. After glueing back the flap servos (love the servo mounting pads) and making some adjustments to the differential to try to overcome what we think was aileron induced adverse yaw.

I made my test second flight. Flutter was always near at hand, you could not power up unless the nose was pointed up. A level power run and the wing protested, VIOLENTLY ! With the vertical climbs to 150 meter Brian and I where able to check out the performance a bit. The 1.8 meter long fuselage presents vey well This should help signal lift much better than the normal 1.5 long fuselages. Hoping that some of my flutter issues were as a result of my power, and wanting to test the neutral trim (balance point). I trimmed for level flight with the trailing edge in profile. I put her in a 4 degree dive and watched her accelerate, there was no hint of a tuck (being tail heavy). But the wing tips just started to flutter having only covered about 50 feet. This is a real problem with this model. She still was not responding to ailerons.

Came around for a landing, and in crow she all but stops. I like this but Brian thought I had to much upward aileron spoiler action.

Made some adjustments to the flap and aileron differential This time actually removing any differential the Mike Shellim template as it was thought that the downward flaps (2 down:1 up with my linkage) where the cause of the adverse yaw. The ailerons now had about 2.5 to 1 with the up aileron being 2.5 time more movement than the downward aileron. This flight was a bit better I actually got some roll control in glide. Motor on still needed a heavy dose of rudder. Crow was about the same with 45° up verses my preferred 70° up aileron. So Brian might be on to something.

For the fourth flight I made some more programing changes. Much to my horror I had no directional control and as the model was heading over Highway CA-1 I gave full down command and planted my new Samsara from 8 meter into the Russian olives. The damage to the fuselage in minor. And damage to the wing might be a blessing in disguise as it will allow me to strengthen the D tube center section to try to stiffen the wing.

I think she has a lot of promise as she looks and signals well in the air. I think the roll issue is a function of my radio programing and with a bit of work should be sorted out. Do not fly with more downward flap than upward flap in the aileron to flap coupling. I have concerns about the narrow flight envelope trying not to over speed the model into flutter. This really concerns me as the model never really developed much speed by any measure. Thinking of droping down to a 17x9 prop from the 15x13.

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I would to have loved to seen your setup. I too would have suggested way less than 70 degrees of spoiler. I actually prefer very little spoiler as every bit of spoiler eats up roll authority on the landing.

How many watts is that motor delivering? Judging by the prop size I'm wondering if you are trying to put too much power into this airframe? I think that lower pitch prop sounds like a very good idea.
 
Power wasn't the issue. Topmodel recommends the ACn 22/30/3E motor for the Samsara. This is an 800 to 900 watt motor. Even on 3 cells it is a 700 watt motor.
https://alofthobbies.com/mega-acn-22303e.html

I had my geared 6.7:1 Hacker A30-18M propped for an honest 600 plus watts. It was very effective at pulling the Samsara straight up, my attempt to keep the speed down yet have some altitude to trim out the plane.

The issue as I see it is that the wing goes into flutter at a bit under twice the stall speed. Even with the motor off I could not perform the classic speed test to ascertain the proper center of gravity. After about 50 feet of forward motion in a very shallow dive the wings went into flutter. Even trying to keep the speed in check making a "2G" (level 60°) turns was flirting with flutter. Flutter is a problem with the model's wing.

I'm confident that my control issues were a function of my flap to aileron programing, not an inherent problem with the model. I'll have to ask Mike Shellim about this, as I was using his OpenTX templet 'E-Soar Plus v3.0.1". There is some concern that my model had a flatter dihedral than other Samsara's. But I felt that the rudder roll coupling is just about right. It pains me to say this, but I have less than 4 minutes flight time with this model.

Actually in landing mode (full crow) I had the most control of roll even with my original 70° up ailerons (spoilers). This can be attributed to the reverse aileron differential afforded by Mike's templet. My understanding of the 45° or less spoiler came about as most mid range radios (prior to the great X9D/OpenTX) did not offer reverse differential for the ailerons in crow. There is a another concern with my high spoilers, with the ailerons going up so much one needs to add a lot of elevator compensation. This results in a rather extreme looking curve, which is limited in the speed range in which it is effective.
 
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Again I have to give a shout out to Mike Shellim for his templet.

I reached out to Mike and he responded very quickly. He suggested that I cut down the aileron to flap mix. So I changed the mix value in "Global Variables" A2F in three of the flight modes from 86 to 20. And for the landing flight mode I placed a "0" to kill any unwanted flap motion in crow.

Now the trailing edge looks like it is responding much much closer to what I would have expected.

Guys, please learn from my mistake; "DON'T FLY IF THE PROGRAM DOESN'T LOOK RIGHT!" I was kidding myself into thinking that I had been away from TD ships for so long that the laws of aerodynamics may have changed, they haven't! Drag and lift are very close partners and one needs to respect their interactions.

My failure is going to cost me 10 hours of work to rebuild the wing. Now this might be a blessing in disguise as it will allow me to stiffen the center section.

Well, I'm off to make a dihedral board to maintain the 1.5 degree center section dihedral during the rebuild process.

Doc, I'm sorry my rookie mistakes has denied you the opportunity to fly the Samsara while you were here.
 
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Again I have to give a shout out to Mike Shellim for his templet.

I reached out to Mike and he responded very quickly. He suggested that I cut down the aileron to flap mix. So I changed the mix value in "Global Variables" A2F in three of the flight modes from 70 to 20. And for the landing flight mode I placed a "0" to kill any unwanted flap motion in crow.

Now the trailing edge looks like it is responding much much closer to what I would have expected.

Guys, please learn from my mistake; "DON'T FLY IF THE PROGRAM DOESN'T LOOK RIGHT!" I was kidding myself into thinking that I had been away from TD ships for so long that the laws of aerodynamics may have changed, they haven't! Drag and lift are very close partners and one needs to respect their interactions.

My failure is going to cost me 10 hours of work to rebuild the wing. Now this might be a blessing in disguise as it will allow me to stiffen the center section.

Well, I'm off to make a dihedral board to maintain the 1.5 degree center section dihedral during the rebuild process.

Doc, I'm sorry my rookie mistakes has denied you the opportunity to fly the Samsara while you were here.

No Probs Konrad - it was nice to meet you.

Doc J.
 
Likewise. It is nice to put a face to the name from half way across the world! It was also nice to meet your lovely wife Julia.

Konrad
 
Early on I asked about the constuction of the wings. I was hoping it wouldn't be me that would have the opertunity to disect one.

Well, I was wrong thinking that the wing was a stress skin design ala Hal deBolt. The spar is a classic box style made of spruce top and bottom spars with a full width shear web between the sruce spars. There are also 3mm thick balsa shear webs placed fore and aft of the spruce spars. These shear webs are supported by light fiberglass to keep from splitting. The wing joiners are place in the hollow made by the box and the area of the joiner is wrapped with thread. This Box spar explanes why the wing did not explode when the wing went into such violent flutter.

Bottom skins are drying. If all the glue cures I hope to have the top skins on tonight.
 
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Here are some detail shots. The bottom skin has been replaced and the upper skin has been removed and "Fish Bone" cleaned up. I do this in stages as I'm hoping that the left over damaged skins help hold the wing in shape.

I hope you can see the area of the wing joiner and how the Box spar is made.

All the best,

Konrad
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I added a false leading edge to help hold down the "D" tube sheeting in the front as we try to bend the sheeting over the ribs. This is a real help when using harder (heavier) wood. I'm using heavy 12lb to 16lb balsa to try to give the wing more torsional stiffness.

One of the often over looked properties of Aliphatic glues like "Titebond Original or "Elmer's Carpenter Glue"is that they can be heat activated after they have dried. That is one can iron on the "D" tube sheeting. I hope you can see that along with adding glue to the rib there is a strip of glue that corresponds to the rib on the sheeting. I use slow epoxy to bond the sheeting to the spar. Once this has set I then iron down the sheeting to the ribs and false LE.

As there is a dihedral kink at the center line and no joint break one needs to allow the balsa fibers to move. I soak the leading edge sheet two bay ether side of the center line prior to rolling the sheeting on to the ribs. This is a neat trick as the heat from the iron is both allowing the balsa fibers to move and at the same time is activating the Aliphatic glue.

Well, Much to my surprise the wing came out looking great! It is straight and still has the 1mm of wash out at the mid span dihedral break.

I'm torn as to wanting the glass the "D" tube. I think my sheeting is much stiffer (and HEAVIER) than what was originally on my wing. I also think that my use of Epoxy and Aliphatic glues makes a much stiffer glue joint than the original "hot glue" used by Topmodels). I think I'll just cover the wings with Oracover. If I still have a flutter problem it would only cost me the time of a recovering job. (Assuming the wing didn't blow up!)

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One of the benefits of a major crash like this, is that it offers one a chance to address factory issues. First is that I can move the wing bolt hold down holes closer together. My kit had the holes too far apart and off to one side by 1.2mm to 1.5mm. I also was able to remove that second wiring tube straw and clean up a lot of those glue blobs so common with "hot glue" assembly.

Well it's now time to repair the fuselage. While the damage is light by my standards I did have to remove the factory installed plywood wing hold downs to allow a continuos path for the carbon fiber repair strips. This carbon will go from the motor mount past the canopy cut out, past the rear wing hold down block. I will also add two carbon bridges on ether end of the canopy cut out. That and some cosmetic filler is about all that is needed to repair the fuselage.

I'd like you to note the use of a balsa plane, it makes quick work of shaping the leading edge and makes a lot less dust! It is a tool well worth getting!

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While cleaning the wing in preparation for film covering I notice that there is Carbon Fiber (0.3m thick) in the wing. It is under the spruce spars. This was a pleasant surprise. Now with my understanding of materials I would have place this carbon on the outside of the spars. But there might be some manufacturing constraints that I'm not aware of that drove this carbon to be placed under the spar.
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Well it took a bit more than the original time estimate of 10 hours to get her back together again.

Here is the rather useless, but ubiquitous, balance shot. I told you I was old school, notice the triple beam balance!

I'm a bit concern that the Samsara has only gained 30 grams with the repair (AUW is now 2.08 kg). Normally I'd be happy with this weight gain. But I fear that most of the mass is in the form of glass and carbon reinforcements of the fuselage. I was hoping that the wing would have gained some weight in the form of denser "D" tube sheeting. I fear that the repair might not address the flutter issues I had on the maiden flights. (This was unfounded) I know that the use of epoxy to adhere the sheeting to the main spar will add some stiffness. And the use of aliphatic glue will make a stronger and stiffer glue joint than the hot glue used by the OEM. But the repaired wing still "feels" about the same as it did before the crash.

She is ready to continue with flight testing. I have dropped the pitch speed as I'll be using a 17 x 9 instead of the 15 x 13 used on the maiden flight.

As I hope to be a ISR this weekend, I need to get some domestic chores done for SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) before I can re- maiden her.

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Found another 20 gram of weight savings! I've replaced the solid glass 8mm wing joiner rods (white) with 8mm carbon tubes.
https://alofthobbies.com/carbon-fiber-tubes-500mm-lengths.html

But one needs to be careful when doing this kind of modification. It is very easy for the leverage to crush the ends of a tube. To prevent this I've added compression plugs into the tube ends. These act a lot like shear webs in an wing spar. They are just slip fit pine dowels about 12mm long that are glued into the ends. Also to help from loosing these in the grass I've glued the rods to the outer panels. This gives me the added benefit of cutting down half the slop in the panel joining system (only one end of the rod is floating in a wing joiner tube).
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WOW, WOW, WOW
Re-maidened with the repaired Samsara, it is all I hoped it would be and more!

The big question was did the wings go into flutter? And the answer is no!!!. I think I flew her at 3 times, maybe more, over that of the stall speed. Loops and full power, level speed with the 17x9 did not drive the wings into flutter, nor did the CofG dive test.

Rolls are slow but strong in all flight modes!

I have to agree with Brian Chan and Wayne that the 40° aileron spoilers work great and are more predictable (easier to match the compensation curve to the model's response profile).

Climbs are vertical, while not like a homesick angel, they look like a high speed freight elevator.

All up weight was 2055 grams
CofG is at 91mm (haven't found the tuck point) Been moving the heavy 365 gram battery aft. This means that I might be able to replace the Talon 65 with the lighter Talon 35.

It's all looking real good, the 1.8m fuselage is fantastic. It really helps with distance signaling of thermal activity.

All I can say is get one of these long fuselage ships. It really is a game changer when it comes to reading the air. I now have over 2 hour of flight time on my Samsara. Other than the roll rate I'm ecstatic! I think with some more trimming I can up the roll rate another 35% to 50%.

Guys you need to get one, if you do any flat land work. I don't know how long they will be in production as the long fuse is killing any profit margin as a result of the shipping charges.

Get a Samsara while you can!

When I calm down, I'll post more details, as to the setup that I'm flying. I really am on that much of a high!
 
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The wing joiner tubes in my wings appear to be oversized. This results in the joiner rods being too loose in the tubes. I measured a clearance of over 0.15mm (0.006'). This showed up as a lot of wing flex on the original test flight. (This may have been one of many contributors to the wing flutter, but flex is not wing flutter). To control this clearance I glued one end of the joiner rod to the wing tip panel. I biased this rod in the tube to add more dihedral. I then built up the other end of the joiner rod with masking tape to take up the 0.15mm clearance. I hardened this tape with thin CA to aid in durability and to take up any left over clearances.

The manual has another gross error. It recommends that you file a detent into the canopy flange to aid in keeping the canopy in place. YOU DON'T WANT TO DO THIS!!! Notching the canopy opening flange is a sure fire way to guaranty that the fuselage will fail at that point! I make my canopy hold down detents by placing some thickened epoxy under the flange. When the epoxy sets but hasn't cured I then press the waxed canopy retention rod into the soft epoxy making the detent dent.

As a result of manufacturing constraints there isn't much glass fiber across the fuselage part line. To help keep the fuselage from folding I added carbon fiber hoops at both ends of the canopy opening. You might also see that I've added some stand off material to the canopy recess. This was done because the glass canopy I made is much thinner than the OEM carbon canopy. I needed these stand off to place the canopy flush with the fuselage.

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