Spray paint question

[TyFlies]

Sprayed some accent stripes on the Fazer. Got it used a few months ago. Flies great in light air. But the wing bottom is black and at a distance I was having orientation struggles because the dark red top and black bottom were way too similar.
Added a white stripe on the bottom and yellow fluorescent yellow accent on top. Fluorescent rudder too.
Pretty sure I could stop here and be fine, but thinking about a single coat of clear or wax or both.
-Any thoughts about whether or not to spray clear?
-If I wax it do I really need to wait 30 - 90 days like is recommended for new automotive paint?
-I’d like it to be slippery and durable.

Random info…
The key to making fluorescent pop is to spray it over a white base coat. I sprayed a couple of accent stripes on another dark plane before this one. Fluorescent spray doesn’t pop at all if it’s not sprayed over white.
A couple of light flash sprays is a big help. Go light.
On a paper test spray Tamiya fluorescent looked better than the Krylon or Rustoleum that I had. Expensive, but better brighter. And a finer spray. .
I did a light sand of the wing with 1200 grit before spraying. And a quick swipe with 3000 grit after the final spray dried to slick it up a bit.
The plane had a couple of strips of white vinyl on each side of the wing joints. Had been on for several years. Adhesive wouldn’t come off and adhesive remover was messing up the surface so I just put new reflective vinyl over where it was. Not what I was hoping for, but good enough.
The new blue tape that’s on there now I put down prior to the 3000 grit swipes. If I spray clear I’ll finish the tape job.

Full disclosure, I posted this on that other no-name forum that has the initials RCG. Really like this Aloft forum and want to support it.

 

[Konrad]

I like catalyzed PPG paints. Catalyzed paints are much more durable. They will custom mix the colors. And if you don’t have spray equipment they have a spray can system that allows you to spray catalyzed paints.

For adhesion reasons I use 320 grit on light colors. For dark I go down to 400 grit. 1000 grit is used to knock down paint lines or over spray. 2500 is used prior to buffing.

Using too fine a grit is the main reason clear top coats fail. I avoid clear coats if I can.

Look for a PPG automotive paint store. Make sure you are using a respiratory with any spray paint.

I don’t like wax as it makes repairs (structural & paint) much more difficult.

 

[Wayne]

I have painted entire cars in spray paint, and the key is letting them sit in the sun to fully cure. When they don't smell anymore (about a month) you can actually color sand, polish, etc.No one knew my car was spray painted with Rustoleum when I was done with it. (It was an off-road vehicle that was going to get damaged, so cheap spray paint was perfect for it.)

Anyhow, the Flouro colors will fade with UV exposure.. So there is that.

What you have there looks really good, and that is perfect! I don't know the clear will help a lot.

 

[TyFlies]

Really appreciate the information from both of you. And good idea about custom mixing from a PPG store.

 

[Moneyec]

Adding the white stripe on the bottom and the fluorescent yellow accent on top should definitely help with orientation, especially in the air.
Regarding whether to spray clear or wax, it depends on the level of protection and finish you want. A clear coat can provide additional durability and make the surface more slippery, which can enhance the overall look and longevity of your work.
If you decide to go for the clear coat, it could be a great finishing touch. For more advice and products related to your project, you might want to check out https://kraftsmann.com. They often have a wide range of options and information to help you achieve the best results. Keep up the great work on your Fazer!