Some questions for my warmliner build

[austin]

Most of my collection is stuff I bought used and nearly ready to go so I need a little help. I'm building an Ion Pro+ Next Generation, a 5 servo 2 meter warmliner. https://www.lindinger.at/en/AIRPLAN...PRO-NEXT-GENERATION-ORANGE-WITH-FLAPS/9761466

I plan on about 1.5kw, will the kit's 2mm motor mount suffice?
Servo's I have laying around are 2x DS135MG(aileron or flap?) and a DS215MG (Elevator?)-if not what else?
For motor I have a Plettenburg 220/20/A2 P4 with 5.1, or AXI 2826/8, or something else in the $150 range?
I was planning on using another Sequre 120A esc with its 10A bec, do I need to add a bec? which size?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
-Austin

 

[smirkracing2024]

Most of my collection is stuff I bought used and nearly ready to go so I need a little help. I'm building an Ion Pro+ Next Generation, a 5 servo 2 meter warmliner. https://www.lindinger.at/en/AIRPLAN...PRO-NEXT-GENERATION-ORANGE-WITH-FLAPS/9761466

I plan on about 1.5kw, will the kit's 2mm motor mount suffice?
Servo's I have laying around are 2x DS135MG(aileron or flap?) and a DS215MG (Elevator?)-if not what else?
For motor I have a Plettenburg 220/20/A2 P4 with 5.1, or AXI 2826/8, or something else in the $150 range?
I was planning on using another Sequre 120A esc with its 10A bec, do I need to add a bec? which size?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
-Austin

- i haven't seen the kit's 2mm motor mount and can't comment. however, the problems I've heard about are almost always the motor mount becoming detached from the fuselage vs the motor mount breaking. the glue joint between the fuselage and the motor mount is (obviously) critical.

- servos sound fine. the control surfaces need very little throw, so you have lots of mechanical advantage on your side.

-i'd go with the geared motor if you want a warmliner style experience (brief burst of throttle followed by gliding)

-i've not tested the sequre 120, but i've been beating on the 70amp version as hard as I can. So far, i don't think the ESC has noticed my efforts.

-I would *always* run a bec on a warm or hotliner, it is cheap insurance given that you'll likely be running the electronics pretty aggressively. 10amps should be more than enough. make sure you have the right input voltage for your servos. i stupidly ran a standard voltage servo at 7.4v, and fried it. it was buried in the wing. enormous amount of effort for a stupid mistake.

 

[Jarron]

Most of my collection is stuff I bought used and nearly ready to go so I need a little help. I'm building an Ion Pro+ Next Generation, a 5 servo 2 meter warmliner. https://www.lindinger.at/en/AIRPLAN...PRO-NEXT-GENERATION-ORANGE-WITH-FLAPS/9761466

I plan on about 1.5kw, will the kit's 2mm motor mount suffice?
Servo's I have laying around are 2x DS135MG(aileron or flap?) and a DS215MG (Elevator?)-if not what else?
For motor I have a Plettenburg 220/20/A2 P4 with 5.1, or AXI 2826/8, or something else in the $150 range?
I was planning on using another Sequre 120A esc with its 10A bec, do I need to add a bec? which size?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
-Austin

Yeah, do the geared motor. I'll run some numbers for you later today.

 

[austin]

- i haven't seen the kit's 2mm motor mount and can't comment. however, the problems I've heard about are almost always the motor mount becoming detached from the fuselage vs the motor mount breaking. the glue joint between the fuselage and the motor mount is (obviously) critical.

- servos sound fine. the control surfaces need very little throw, so you have lots of mechanical advantage on your side.

-i'd go with the geared motor if you want a warmliner style experience (brief burst of throttle followed by gliding)

-i've not tested the sequre 120, but i've been beating on the 70amp version as hard as I can. So far, i don't think the ESC has noticed my efforts.

-I would *always* run a bec on a warm or hotliner, it is cheap insurance given that you'll likely be running the electronics pretty aggressively. 10amps should be more than enough. make sure you have the right input voltage for your servos. i stupidly ran a standard voltage servo at 7.4v, and fried it. it was buried in the wing. enormous amount of effort for a stupid mistake.

Thank you Smirk. If I understand, you recommend running a seperate 10 amp bec instead of the 10 amp bec on the esc?
Thanks again

 

[Wayne]

I'm not familiar with this model. Says it is built by RFM. Same company as the props? Looks oddly like Chinese build.
What is the airfoil?
Will the 10mm servos fit in the wing?
I'm not sure how robust that model is. It lists a steel joiner, and looks like 4 nylon screws attach the wing to the fuselage.
This may not be the best starting point for this much wattage.

 

[smirkracing2024]

Thank you Smirk. If I understand, you recommend running a seperate 10 amp bec instead of the 10 amp bec on the esc?
Thanks again

Yes. These are high-powered planes, they often fly close to the failure mode of the electronics (or you might just make a mistake in your set-up and exceed what the electronics can handle).

A separate BEC + battery (independent of the ESC) gives you a much high chance of maintaining control, and being able to land safely, if anything goes wrong. Better for you and better for bystanders.

If you go this route, remove the red wire from the ESC's receiver plug (to prevent the receiver from getting power from two sources). You can just fold it back and tape it.

 

[Red]

Yes. These are high-powered planes, they often fly close to the failure mode of the electronics (or you might just make a mistake in your set-up and exceed what the electronics can handle).

A separate BEC + battery (independent of the ESC) gives you a much high chance of maintaining control, and being able to land safely, if anything goes wrong. Better for you and better for bystanders.

If you go this route, remove the red wire from the ESC's receiver plug (to prevent the receiver from getting power from two sources). You can just fold it back and tape it.

This is solid advice. Not really negotiable really, you should just do it.

 

[austin]

I'm not familiar with this model. Says it is built by RFM. Same company as the props? Looks oddly like Chinese build.
What is the airfoil?
Will the 10mm servos fit in the wing?
I'm not sure how robust that model is. It lists a steel joiner, and looks like 4 nylon screws attach the wing to the fuselage.
This may not be the best starting point for this much wattage.

RFM did the design, he was a F5B champ way back in the day. He worked with Josef Palacek of JP MODELS who made the kits in the Czech Republic. Airfoil is MH30, servo pockets are 11mm. I am not concerned about the power on this one, some owners boasted up to 3.5kw.

my shopping list includes a 10A bec and a battery for it, just need flap servos, more DS135MG?

 

[Jarron]

Okay, you can put a 13x8 prop on that Plettenburg on 3S. 4S is possible but watch your throttle management. You'd better have good airflow in and out of that fuselage too. Use the Sequre 120A, your estimated current is 86A on 4s.

 

[Wayne]

Yeah the DS135 servos will for sure do the trick. Or you can use some 8mm servos for the ailerons and save a little tip weight, using your current DS135 on the flaps. Might want to check the speeds of the 8mm servos on 6 volts though, the DS135 may be the better option just for the servo speed on the lower voltage. (I assume you are running low voltage as the 135 is a low voltage servo.)