Konrad
Very Strong User
Lets see what am I trying to show here, that I'm a fan of FrSky?
No, I want to show how the first stage of primer should look. First I need say that all sanding needs to be done with some kind of backing, preferably a hard backing. This helps greatly from undercutting the surface.
On this repair I used a sanding block to shape and feather in the repair patches. At an optical level this shows up as a faceted surface. You can plainly see this with the nose part of the repair in the longitudinal nature of the primer marks.
You can also see the edges of the bandages in the primer aft of the wing fairing. This indicates that most of the fibers weren't under cut when feather edging.
The main purpose of primer is to fill the scratches from shaping the repaired area and to fill any low spots. It is not to add weight as is so often the case. Here I used a stiff foam rubber pad and 280 grit sandpaper. I will add a second layer of primer and sand until I hit parent material with 280 grit. I will then switch to 320 grit until I get a surface suitable for the finish coat. For light color 320 grit is adequate, for darker colors I often move to 400 grit.
Note the only time one might sand without any backing is in tight areas, such as filets. But it is best to make some shaped sanding blocks for these areas. Also sanding to clean out low spots in preparation of adding filler.
Avoid sanding with ones fingers or hand as the sandpaper backing. You are likely to destroy the surface as you will be imparting the shape of your fingers and hand into the surface. This just looks gross!
I know, I know I should stop trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. (RCRCM products aren't worth the effort)! Again I'm using this crap as practice. I haven't done any refinishing work in 40 years. Wow, have the materials changed!
When it comes to sanding products I really like the performance of 3M products, than hasn't changed.
All the best,
Konrad
No, I want to show how the first stage of primer should look. First I need say that all sanding needs to be done with some kind of backing, preferably a hard backing. This helps greatly from undercutting the surface.
On this repair I used a sanding block to shape and feather in the repair patches. At an optical level this shows up as a faceted surface. You can plainly see this with the nose part of the repair in the longitudinal nature of the primer marks.
You can also see the edges of the bandages in the primer aft of the wing fairing. This indicates that most of the fibers weren't under cut when feather edging.
The main purpose of primer is to fill the scratches from shaping the repaired area and to fill any low spots. It is not to add weight as is so often the case. Here I used a stiff foam rubber pad and 280 grit sandpaper. I will add a second layer of primer and sand until I hit parent material with 280 grit. I will then switch to 320 grit until I get a surface suitable for the finish coat. For light color 320 grit is adequate, for darker colors I often move to 400 grit.
Note the only time one might sand without any backing is in tight areas, such as filets. But it is best to make some shaped sanding blocks for these areas. Also sanding to clean out low spots in preparation of adding filler.
Avoid sanding with ones fingers or hand as the sandpaper backing. You are likely to destroy the surface as you will be imparting the shape of your fingers and hand into the surface. This just looks gross!
I know, I know I should stop trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. (RCRCM products aren't worth the effort)! Again I'm using this crap as practice. I haven't done any refinishing work in 40 years. Wow, have the materials changed!
When it comes to sanding products I really like the performance of 3M products, than hasn't changed.
All the best,
Konrad
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