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Show us what you are working on..

This is my one finger salute to the FAA (under 250 gram model)!

As the wife is also sequestered with me in the house, I’m limited in what aromatic compounds I can use. Heck, CA accelerator is known as “Wife Away” in our household!

This little Nexus 900 is basically an exercise in wire bending. Now that I have the single cell servos (BMS-101DMG) I should be able to get most of the build (assembly) done today.

What is interesting about this model is that some have used it as the basis for a 3D printed version. Mine should be a much lighter as it is a light weight glass fuselage with balsa wings that have been glassed in a vacuum bag. I think I saw a 3D version on Wayne’s desk. Maybe we can do a head to head comparison, if we have the Sunset Beach gathering in early May.

All the best,
Konrad

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Anyway what is that wooden structure?

That is Jane's fancy new dog food storage container. Little drawer on the bottom holds the dog bowls. We learned a bit.. What do you mean messy garage? That is as clean as mine gets!

p.s. Nice shirt for the magazine article! :)

Konrad - Yeah, I printed out one of those Nexus (Binary) gliders a while back and it flew briefly before some tape let go and the incidence became variable. LOL She busted on impact and I ended up handing it off to Jarron here. He has some plans for it. I'll have to print a new one with the new printer, it does a much better job than my old one ever did!
 
Jarron here at the office has built up a pair of our GWS F15 EDFs. We are planning to have some fun with them this weekend.
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They are good flying planes that are rather stable. The rough idea is to attempt some formation flying with them. If nothing else they should sound cool with 4 EDFs purring along in the sky.
 
Now that I've freed up some Don's Wicked motors from my SR-71, I need to put them in one of my GWS F-15. I'm thinking I might install a set of "Rat Traps" using the Freewing cheat method!
 
I know you are only using Jane to show how tidy your workshop is not Wayne...

Anyway what is that wooden structure?

Looking good!

Doc.

Ha! Freudian typo?

I meant to say how tidy your workshop is NOW...hahaha!

I mean, compared to the treasure-filled "Black hole of Novato" it used to be...Its actually looking damn good!

Doc.
 
That’s why I called it white gold!;)

As to the Aluminum Brass Chrome and steel, much of it is well loved (read worn out). Some of it has been abused (read crashed or engineering failures). But yes there are a lot of NIB or low time examples there.


Don’t we call the mid wing Goodyear racers (Formula one) Polecat, Stinger, Shoestring etc.? And bottom winged Goodyear racers; Estrellita, Cosmic Wind, Rivets, Proud Bird, etc.? I'm so confused?:oops:

Love pressure cowls! We don’t often see them near as much in RC as we do in CL. I wonder why. All my racers where the class allows cowls have pressure cowls as part of the cooling system. Yes, even my electric racers. Do you have a large enough exit area for the expanded air?

Wow, you must carry a lot of clout! The press rarely mentions the Did Not Start (DNS) efforts. The best any one can call me is being part of; “Team Corolla Virus: We're out there too, but not that much of a threat.” ?

All the best,
Konrad

In the late 60's early 70's Hammond /Williams was actually one of the top UK FAI team race (Now F2c) teams.

We were actually pretty good - I suppose some people actually remember us ol Pharts...

Doc.
 
All impressive work.

Konrad, please do discuss those engines. I miss the old detailed glow engine discussions without the dogmatic arguments in those other websites.

Here's my on-going project. It is an old Global Quality kit. It still needs engine installation (.15 c.i.), pushrods, fuel tank, battery, Rx, and switch. Will be controlled by my Frsky X9 Lite.
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All impressive work.

Konrad, please do discuss those engines. I miss the old detailed glow engine discussions without the dogmatic arguments in those other websites.

Here's my on-going project. It is an old Global Quality kit. It still needs engine installation (.15 c.i.), pushrods, fuel tank, battery, Rx, and switch. Will be controlled by my Frsky X9 Lite.
Hank to be honest I do have my own biases, mainly aimed at performance. Now the other site had a strong incentive to protect their ad base. And many of the participants wanted to protect their ill advized investment stratigies.

As one can tell I've had an intrest in a variety of model class sizes. If I'm honest I really liked the 2.5 to 3.5 cc class of model. I might have liked the 1/2A class had we had today's radios. I like the simplicity of the Global and H.O.B. (House of Balsa) kits. How are you sealing the wood and covering from the nitro and oil in the fuel?

All the best,
Konrad
 
Hank to be honest I do have my own biases, mainly aimed at performance. Now the other site had a strong incentive to protect their ad base. And many of the participants wanted to protect their ill advized investment stratigies.

As one can tell I've had an intrest in a variety of model class sizes. If I'm honest I really liked the 2.5 to 3.5 cc class of model. I might have liked the 1/2A class had we had today's radios. I like the simplicity of the Global and H.O.B. (House of Balsa) kits. How are you sealing the wood and covering from the nitro and oil in the fuel?

All the best,
Konrad
On a previous similar build, I used New Stuff laminate film because it was solid sheeted airframe (PICA kit). But on this one, because of the open frame wing, I used clear Ultracoat. I fuel proofed the wood with Balsarite, covered with Ultracoat, sprayed with Rust-Oleum paint, and then fuel proofed with Topflite LustreKote clear coat.
Sadly, the local hobby store does not have Balsarite and fuel proof paint anymore. I will have to improvise from now on.
 
I too miss the Solarfilm products. I have bins of Micafilm and other coverings that need a brushed on adhesive. When Toluene and MEK were outlawed in my state of CA for the general public and we lost Balsarite. I moved to using Balsaloc, a PVA product from Solarfilm.
I'm sure Solarfilm did not manufacture these products but rather rebranded/packaged them. Anybody know of a source for these compounds that Solarfilm sold as covering adhesives?

I'm sorry to say I've never found a noncatalyzed paint that will hold up to nitro fuels much beyond 10% nitro content (Hot Fuel proof). There are now catalyzed water based Urethane paints. I have purchased these but have yet to spray with them, or done any compatibility tests. My automotive paint store will put these in a spray can that keeps the components seperate until ready for use. All new products I haven't actually used as of yet.
 
I too miss the Solarfilm products. I have bins of Micafilm and other coverings that need a brushed on adhesive. When Toluene and MEK were outlawed in my state of CA for the general public and we lost Balsarite. I moved to using Balsaloc, a PVA product from Solarfilm.
I'm sure Solarfilm did not manufacture these products but rather rebranded/packaged them. Anybody know of a source for these compounds that Solarfilm sold as covering adhesives?

I'm sorry to say I've never found a noncatalyzed paint that will hold up to nitro fuels much beyond 10% nitro content (Hot Fuel proof). There are now catalyzed water based Urethane paints. I have purchased these but have yet to spray with them, or done any compatibility tests. My automotive paint store will put these in a spray can that keeps the components seperate until ready for use. All new products I haven't actually used as of yet.
I have used spray polyurethane and it does come off in area immediately around the muffler exhaust but is ok on the rest of the pla
I too miss the Solarfilm products. I have bins of Micafilm and other coverings that need a brushed on adhesive. When Toluene and MEK were outlawed in my state of CA for the general public and we lost Balsarite. I moved to using Balsaloc, a PVA product from Solarfilm.
I'm sure Solarfilm did not manufacture these products but rather rebranded/packaged them. Anybody know of a source for these compounds that Solarfilm sold as covering adhesives?

I'm sorry to say I've never found a noncatalyzed paint that will hold up to nitro fuels much beyond 10% nitro content (Hot Fuel proof). There are now catalyzed water based Urethane paints. I have purchased these but have yet to spray with them, or done any compatibility tests. My automotive paint store will put these in a spray can that keeps the components seperate until ready for use. All new products I haven't actually used as of yet.

Deluxe Materials from England has water based substitutes for most of the adhesives and coatings that I have/plan on using. They are not fuel proof but I would be finishing the job with catalyzed fuel proof clear coat.
I also fuel proof the internals of the model with epoxy thinned down with denatured alcohol.
 
And in California the Air Resources Board has outlawed denatured alcohol, too high in VOC. But Everclear is ok! Funny how its all about the tax base!

There aren't too many paints that can hold up the high heat (temprature). Hot Fuel Proof means "Hot" as is extra performance. Meaning high nitro, ussually 15% or more.

When I fly glow I use FAI fuel (80/20/0) or rather high nitro fuels 25%, 45% and 65%. So catalyzed paints are a must.
 
I know it is just checkbook modeling, but I’ve been assembling a Freewing F-14 from RC Castle. What I wanted to show was that despite my issues with FrSky when it comes to complex programing there really is no substitute for OpenTX. I have a lot of safety and lock out features that I just can’t seem to do very well with my Spektrum DX9!

Fans are Frankenstein rigs. Freewing housing with Neu 1410/2Y/SE (1850 KV) motors driving Jet Fan impellers! ESC are YEP 150 amp with Castle Creation cap packs. Far too many ESC are burned by the use of battery lead being more than 8 inches long (total). If adding any length the the battery side of the ESC please add these protection caps! Even though I'm only drawing 85amp it is the load on the protection circuit from the ripple current that fails the MOSFETS! We see far too many ESC burn when guys add these long battery leads!

All the best,
Konrad


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That is a big beast.

As of this weekend I can say that I now own an EDF. Flew the GWs F15 you may have seen kicking around the shop here. What a sweet plane. Very easy to fly. Can't say it is fast, but needed no trimming of either of the planes we maidened yesterday.

Interesting is you can pull the nose way up and just hold the elevator there and she comes down like a snowflake. No tip stall or anything to scare you. (We need to decorate them a bit.)
gws jets - 1.jpg

And here they are with Chris's GWS A4, another very nice flying kit. Really hard to argue at these prices.The A4 seems to like a 4S battery.
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That lands like a snowflake is encouraging!

The GWS F-15 has always looked like she has had too much wing. With that report I'm thinking it might be workable to cut 30mm from the wing root to get the wing area closer to scale.

Did these both have the stock GWS fans and inrunners?

Seeing how much movement it takes from the full flying tailavons on the F-14 I'm thinking that the GWS set up (directly off the servo output splines) might actually be practical (with higher resolution servos).

A4 on 4 cells how did they look (perform) together?
 
my Carbon arrived (very excited) for the wings, but sadly they sent 5mm braided tube instead of 15mm braided tube (only useful for very strong shoelaces) - today we are in Lockdown for a month here in NZ (covid19 level 4) so sadly the DLG will have to wait for a while - not only am I short of CF, but the hot wire gear is at work too!

I will see what I can achieve with the projects on the bench at home! :D

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I'm building a Sebart Avanti. And I'm just about finished with a Shinto.
I did flat servos with tiered install for the Shinto. That way the push rod of the front one clears the rear servo.
The wing wires are 4-pin Dean connectors. And they just hang loose out of the wing and fuselage. I wish the fuselage plugs were glued on. But the fuselage is thin at the opening and I cannot see a good way to do this. I guess I could redo them with Multiplex connectors but the factory ones are so nice that I hate to cut them off.
The Avanti retracts run on 6V, but I use 8V. I've learned the only 6V part are the three servos. They have two door servos and one steering servo. I'm swapping the steering servo with a HV KST. I think I'll run a small BEC to power the gears from the Rx battery. Or swap the servos too?
I have two options for the fan - 6S or 12S. I've seen videos of this model on 12S and it is fast. But it was designed around the 6S JP Fan.

I enjoy looking at your projects and I hope this takes your mind off the conditions outside! I know it helps me.
BTW - I'm hoarding denatured alcohol...

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Love the looks of the models.

As to 6 cells verses 12 cells I've always liked high voltage low current verse low voltage high current set ups. I know it is difficult not to try get the most power from the fan and batteries. But I like low KV motors and high voltage. If your ESC can run 12cells and if it was my jet I'd set it up for about 15% more power than the the 6 cell and enjoy the longer flights. 15% more power is to make up for the added weight of the batteries. It should then fly as good if not a bit better than the 6 cell set up. Please take my warning about battery leads to heart. most of my high cell count set ups are using anti spark connectors. I'm often using Jeti connectors. But my F-14 is using EC-5. While she is a 12 cell model the setup are 6 cell as that is what I have laying around.

All the best,
Konrad
 
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