Show us what you are working on..

[Wayne]

Just about done with my Z1 build. Decided to make it a two piece wing and added a wing spar along with a hard mounted plug so when it assembles, the two wings automatically plug together. Wasnt sure if it would feel strong enough but its really solid and I will be adding two more smaller alignment spars to keep it all strait.

Been addressing this on the new version. LOL (It will be a 2 piece setup.)

 

[chuckstarck]

Our club has a history of old timers flying Telemasters. One of the group said they had a Tele' Senior kit if I would like to build it. I already had a standard Senior Telemaster and decided to build again but this time I would make it a TELElowMaster. I used Autocad to construct a template to cut the formers for the forward hatch that goes from an arc to a flat with curved ends. I could never have been able to draw this out. That worked so well, then the turtle deck also came from that same process. The wing was made in two halves with joiner. The Wings bolt to the inside of the fuse. Many parts of the plane have 3D components. I used 3D to make templates to change the dihedral angle making it easy to build components right the first time. Corel Draw was used to morph the fuselage side trim. Press and Seal used to place all graphics hand cut on glass. The cockpit, extensive detailed (for a pilot with no arms or legs flying by telepathy). Of course the guidance is done by FRSKY R8 Pro and X10Se Tx. Servo lead holders are 3D designed as well. Some might recognize the engine design which houses the outrunner. You can see an antenna holder in the one photo for the folded diapole of the R8 which I changed design to better hold and remove that same antenna on another plane. The project turned out to be making 3D parts for lots of applications.

 

[Wayne]

Like it, and extra credit for the cable management!

 

[rcsoar4fun]

Ah, the low wing Telemaster aka the Funster. Nice job on the up scaled 049.

 

[thenated0g]

Having a heck of a time kicking these winter blues and getting back on projects. Been keeping busy doing stuff with the family. Taking my daughter shooting and since she turned 13 she now thinks she will be driving any minute now lol so been playing around with driving sims on the pc with her. Hoping the time change gets me back in gear to finish a couple things before sunset.

 

[Yotaman1985]

Hey everybody, could use some help from the collective minds... I am finishing my Z1 build but have run into a problem. The kit I got was missing the vertical fins for the wing tips and I have been trying to come up with a light yet ridged design to 3d print. So far, I have failed miserably. I have attempted 3 or 4 different designs but each has had its own problems. The two most promising designs I tried were to make it with an empty center, with carbon tubes added for rigidity and then cover it with clear covering film or a mostly solid fin with a groove for a carbon tube from the bottom to the top.

The light ones with the carbon tube supports seemed alright until I went to try and cover one. Im already not great at covering and the film, combined with the heat from the iron, caused the fin to warp. Granted, I only attempted one side, but I dont think that I can get a strait fin with this method.

Next was the mostly solid fin (hollow inside with sparse infill) with a groove for a carbon tube running from the bottom to the top. These turned out heavier of course, but seemed somewhat ridged and I had high hopes when I glued in the carbon tube as they were very ridged. The problem came when I installed them and with it mounted on the wingtip, they flex a lot due to the small mating surface where it bolts onto the wingtip. So at this point, I scrapped this idea and came here to see if anyone has a better idea for me to try.

The light version with carbon came in at 23 grams per fin (uncovered) and the heavy ones came in at 33 grams per fin. I know the factory ones are sub 10 grams which I can not achieve by printing but I dont have the skills or materials to vacuum bag balsa fins. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Or if you know of any pre-made fins that might work I would be happy to explore that route too. Or best case, someone has a pair of Z1 fins maybe???

Has anyone tried vacuum bagging with their wife's food vacuum bagger? Just thought about that as my wife has one...

*The carbon tube isnt the full legnth of the fin because this was a test fin with a scrap piece of carbon for proof of concept

 

[Wayne]

OK - I had liked your 3D printing approach, but sounds like that isn't going to cut it. It is hard to keep the weight out of 3D printing compared to balsa. So here is my suggestion, go back to balsa. Very easy to work with, and you do not need to bag them!

My thought, basically duplicate the factory tips with balsa and a little spruce or lit ply at the bolt areas. Glue that and sand it nice and clean, then just cover it in normal shrink film. This is the easiest method. The film should make them stiff enough. They may be a little more fragile than the factory units, but will be easy to produce.

Plan B would be to due the above, but after sanding you can do the poor man's glassing method of using a bunch of thin CA, let it soak in and cure, then sand that back. You can leave them bare if you like, or paint or cover. This is more sanding but you would be surprised how tough this gets. If this is still not strong enough, add a layer 3/4 oz fiberglass. I have a lot of this here, if you like I can send you some.

I think these methods are simple and quick and will work very well for you.

But yes, you can bag with the wife's food vacuum bagger, but bagging is a new level if dificulty IMHO that isn't really needed for this application. But if it is a skill you would like to learn, DO IT!

 

[Wayne]

I went into the garage this morning and found I had left a light on, but I couldn't help but see the beauty in the imagery.

I'm happier when I'm building.

 

[Chris]

I would pick up a couple of these (small) and just do what I could with them... I am not sure what you are looking for weight wise these weigh in at around 0.6oz each. They are almost big enough too.

Carbon Airex Sandwich Plates

Composite plates made from a sandwich of Carbon / Airex Foam / Carbon. A great material for making servo trays, bulkheads, fins for flying wings, battery trays etc. Available in two sizes: 3.825 x 7.25in. & 3.875 x 14.5in. (98x185mm & 98x370mm) Plate thickness is .080" (2.11mm) for both sizes of...

alofthobbies.com

 

[Yotaman1985]

Thanks for the help guys, Ill have to dig through my stuff and see if I have any balsa sheet I could use. What thickness would you suggest? Was thinking 1/8 might be too thin but 1/4 maybe too thick? Obviously I could sand down the 1/4 some and it would give more material to work with. I just havent done much balsa work before so this will be new to me as well. Thanks again!

 

[Chris]

I believe the originals are about 1/8 thick. Try using 1/8 balsa and maybe try some 1.7 laminating film to strengthen. That stuff doesn't shrink much.

 

[Yotaman1985]

I would pick up a couple of these (small) and just do what I could with them... I am not sure what you are looking for weight wise these weigh in at around 0.6oz each. They are almost big enough too.

Carbon Airex Sandwich Plates

Composite plates made from a sandwich of Carbon / Airex Foam / Carbon. A great material for making servo trays, bulkheads, fins for flying wings, battery trays etc. Available in two sizes: 3.825 x 7.25in. & 3.875 x 14.5in. (98x185mm & 98x370mm) Plate thickness is .080" (2.11mm) for both sizes of...

alofthobbies.com

Thanks for the link, I will probably use these as a plan B if balsa doesnt work out.

 

[Yotaman1985]

I believe the originals are about 1/8 thick. Try using 1/8 balsa and maybe try some 1.7 laminating film to strengthen. That stuff doesn't shrink much.

Thanks Chris, apprciate the info

 

[Yotaman1985]

OK - I had liked your 3D printing approach, but sounds like that isn't going to cut it. It is hard to keep the weight out of 3D printing compared to balsa. So here is my suggestion, go back to balsa. Very easy to work with, and you do not need to bag them!

My thought, basically duplicate the factory tips with balsa and a little spruce or lit ply at the bolt areas. Glue that and sand it nice and clean, then just cover it in normal shrink film. This is the easiest method. The film should make them stiff enough. They may be a little more fragile than the factory units, but will be easy to produce.

Plan B would be to due the above, but after sanding you can do the poor man's glassing method of using a bunch of thin CA, let it soak in and cure, then sand that back. You can leave them bare if you like, or paint or cover. This is more sanding but you would be surprised how tough this gets. If this is still not strong enough, add a layer 3/4 oz fiberglass. I have a lot of this here, if you like I can send you some.

I think these methods are simple and quick and will work very well for you.

But yes, you can bag with the wife's food vacuum bagger, but bagging is a new level if dificulty IMHO that isn't really needed for this application. But if it is a skill you would like to learn, DO IT!

Thanks for the breakdown Wayne, I will be placing an order today for some balsa and a couple other little things. If you have some scraps of fiberglass sitting around, I would gladly take some as I think I will try bagging a set since it is something I have wanted to learn. I will also make a balsa/covering film set in the likely event that the bagged ones fail miserably. Lol

 

[Wayne]

3/32" should be fine. but the 1/8" could be sanded to more of an aero shape.

 

[Doc J]

Not much flying weather here in the Northeast this month.
To finish out the building season, I've re-started work on the AIR CHIEF project

Wow—how nice is that? It's great to see that a lot of people don't only have wood skills, even these days, but foam and ARF/RR.

Building in wood gives a real sense of satisfaction, and those who do will tell you there is nothing quite like it.

Doc.

 

[Yotaman1985]

The time has finally come for me to start this build. I have been putting it off but cant do that anymore with Sunset coming up. Hoping to have it ready to maiden at Sunset if the winds cooperate

 

[Doc J]

The time has finally come for me to start this build. I have been putting it off but cant do that anymore with Sunset coming up. Hoping to have it ready to maiden at Sunset if the winds cooperate

You are going to like it, Yota.

EVERYBODY likes it

In a milestone I recently shipped the 150th model.

Doc.

 

[Yotaman1985]

You are going to like it, Yota.

EVERYBODY likes it

In a milestone I recently shipped the 150th model.

Doc.

Im sure I will love it! Everytime I pick it up, Im so impressed with the build quality and how strong/ridged it is. The only reason Ive been putting it off is because I know I am going to be super perfectionist with the build...

 

[thenated0g]

Had a fun long weekend north of Upper Lake in the Mendocino forest. One of the prettier drives and camps i have done.


One of my friends i had not seen in a while gave me this old Lanier kit. I know i wont get to it, anybody going to Sunset interested in it?