I have had my Tandem X20S for about 3 weeks now and I am really enjoying it but still have questions. I got my fixed wing models setup pretty easily but just yesterday started on my helis. I still have several flybar type that I enjoy flying so that's where I started. They were pretty easy with a Spektrum DX-18 and Airtronics SD-10G but have been a challenge with the X20. I'm using an Archer R6 rx, 1,2, and 6 are cyclic, 3 is ESC, 4 is rudder and 5 is Gyro. After experimenting several hours I finally got cyclic and pitch working correctly. My rudder (tail rotor) worked but I could not get the Gyro to have any input. I watched a video someone made using ETHOS on an older tx and he used different settings on channel 4 to change his Gyro sensitivity, that had no effect on mine. I finally went into the mixer on channel 5 and assigned it a weight of 80% on switch A in the up position. I can fly the heli now and everything works well with one exception. I would like to change Gyro sensitivity with switch A but I have not been able to figure out how. If I put switch A in mid or down position, I have no Gyro. Going into the mixer for channel 5, I do not have the option to add weights like the mixers for 1,2, and 6. Does anyone have an idea what I am missing here? Thanks, George
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Setting gyro rates on flybar heli
- Thread starter gltruett
- Start date
Which menu screen do you go to for access to the screen you show? I get a screen like that if I go to mixers but the "+ Add a new weight" selection is not there, I can add or change a curve but not weight. If I go to my cyclic functions (1,2, or 6), I get a screen like you show and can add a new weight. I actually did that for my cyclic controls and set triple rates. I was pleased and thought I had accomplished something. Strangely, when I did that, pitch change went away from the throttle stick and my heli would not lift off. I deleted all my changes and it was fine again, just no dual or triple rates on cyclic like I wanted.
OK, that's why you don't see it. They are on 1.3.? at this point, and I am not sure when Var showed up. If you want to upgrade, it is a bit of a process going from the version you are on as a number of items changed that can be confusing. They have a tool, Ethos Suite, that is used now to perform the upgrades, but to get from where you are requires a couple of steps.
If you want to do that https://ethos.frsky-rc.com/ has tools and directions. Scroll down the page and look to the right-hand side for directions.
Personally, I think it will be worth it to you as there are a lot of new features.
If you want to do that https://ethos.frsky-rc.com/ has tools and directions. Scroll down the page and look to the right-hand side for directions.
Personally, I think it will be worth it to you as there are a lot of new features.
I have upgraded to 1.3.3, that was a challenge in itself. I installed Ethos Suite on my computer but there seems to be a problem with the install, it has no functions at all, just a few screens that don't do anything. It said I needed un updated bootloader but following the directions from Frsky, I never get to a point where I can update. I finally just downloaded the new bin file from github and copied it to my sd card. I must have done something right because it upgraded to 1.3.3. I definitely have some new features and looks on my tx but my Gyro gain function appears exactly as it was before.
With a lot of help from gnichola, I have got adjustable gyro rates on my tx! As a bonus, I also have the latest firmware now installed. I have more things to work on now for all my helis including dual/triple rates on cyclic and setting throttle hold and idle up. I have found it is very easy with this system to lose what you previously had working when you try to enable new features. I have learned to clone my setups when I have something working so I can go back when my experiments go sideways. My current project is getting my pictures back to my saved model setting. When I updated the new firmware, my pictures stopped displaying. I know I have seen this somewhere, I think it's just a matter of moving them to a different folder.
Images go in /bitmaps/models The other big thing that changed is how models are stored. Now they are arranged by categories. If you upgraded from an earlier version, your models should be in a category called "Uncategorized". If you go to the model select area, you will see a little + icon in the top right corner, that is to create categories. After doing that you should see a menu item when you tap on a model that says, "Change folder" and that allows you to move it somewhere.
Finely I found someone who shows how to do a gyro gain in Ethos and x20 . I try this one you show . It seems to hold point . But now what would the setting be for heading lock . I have the futaba GY401 gyro . Not sure how to do that . I’m just getting back into flying after a 12 year break lol . It’s called family house work kids .
Thank you
The way the 401 works is that gain increases from 0 to +-100, so positive numbers are one mode and negative numbers are the other. I forget which is which, but it would be easy to test and figure it out.
For example, let's say that positive numbers are for "regular" mode, then as you approach 100, the gain goes up. To set HH mode, just go to negative numbers. The closer you are to -100, the higher the HH gain.
For example, let's say that positive numbers are for "regular" mode, then as you approach 100, the gain goes up. To set HH mode, just go to negative numbers. The closer you are to -100, the higher the HH gain.
If the heli is new and I am adjusting the gyro, I would do something like this:
I will send the output to the gryo channel, and it will then allow me a small amount of adjustment. If I get to the max and it still isn't enough, then I will bump my Var number and bring the pot back down to the midpoint. Doing this allows me to have an easy to get to adjustment until I get it fine tuned.
When I get to the value I want, then I disable this mix (active condition goes to ---), and adjust my Var number appropriately.
I will send the output to the gryo channel, and it will then allow me a small amount of adjustment. If I get to the max and it still isn't enough, then I will bump my Var number and bring the pot back down to the midpoint. Doing this allows me to have an easy to get to adjustment until I get it fine tuned.
When I get to the value I want, then I disable this mix (active condition goes to ---), and adjust my Var number appropriately.
