Servorahmen IDS servo mounts etc - step by step install?

[Konrad]

What the teeth or the offset?

I think with thicker TE some were concered needing to cut into the wing for clearance above the wiper with the original spoons.

 

[Konrad]

I've been suffering a lot of loose servo tray. I degrease and sand all surfaces and still have these trays pop loose. I'm finding that the plastic used does not allow for much of a chemical bond with epoxy.

If one looks close at the servo tray you can see the Servorahmen has supplied a micro ledge to allow the epoxy fillet to flow over the tray. This makes a mechanical bond that holds the servo tray in place.

Please make sure that there is some fillet flowing over this micro ledge before the epoxy fully cures.

All the best,
Konrad

 

[Konrad]

Here I'm showing a trap that can happen when installing the trays. If one needs to change out the servo it is easy to over torque the scews. This will drive an epoxy plug above the mounting surface and cause a ugly dent (bulge) in the skin.

I like to remove the servo mounting screws after the epoxy has curred and grind them down about 0.15mm. This will keep the screw tip way from any epoxy plug that may have formed in the screw holes.

All the best,
Konrad

 

[Wayne]

I have heard of people saying the supplied screws are too long, had not even thought they were pushing out epoxy from the screw hole. Interesting.

 

[Konrad]

Heads up, the molds are starting to wear.

The IDS from Servorahmen are starting to show issues from wear in the molds. I guess this is a good thing as it indicates that they are selling real well. With low profile servos like the KST X0-8 there is little clearance between the base circle of the drive arm and the skin. Any protrusion on this base circle will distort the wing skin.

Prior to glueing down the tray make sure there is clearance between the drive arm and the wing skin. I file off these bumps prior to fitting the arm on the servo.

All the best,
Konrad

 

[mabrungard]

A couple of observations from my recent IDS installation.

First, the molded parts can be kind of cranky to fit together and with pins and splines. A heating with a hot-air gun does make them more compliant and easy to work with.

Second, a Tee Pin is a good temporary axle pin during installation. It's just slightly smaller in diameter than the steel pins supplied with the IDS and the extra length enables you to better align the hinge axis with the edges of the control surface. You can actually align the X and the Y axis's from the different vantage points. The photo below is an example.

Third, the new orientation of the new molded pushrods is a bit confusing. The 'bent' end goes at the servo end and the smooth side goes up. There is a ridge on the underside of the arm that actually meshes with the grooves in the rotary servo arm.

Another thing that is helpful, is to prepare the hinge pin area of the pushrod by using a hot-air gun to melt paraffin into the hole and surrounding areas so that its lubricated and glue won't stick.

 

[Konrad]

I’m sure this is old news, Servorahmen has again improved the spoon again. The new spoon has done away with an injection sprue and added a bit of stabilizer to aid assembly. The earlier sprue location gave us some misdirection (see post 44) as it looked like a redesign of the ledge used in the first configuration (see post #8). This sprue was not intended to be used in the final assembly (see post #57).