Royal Models DG-808 - Build Log

[thenated0g]

Started pulling servo wires and looking at servo mounting. I did have to widen the exit hole, this is probably because of the gauge of wires I'm using.

At the moment I'm leaning towards glueing the servos in place.

@Konrad it does look like the spoilers lock down in place. After they seat the control rod goes in about another 1/8 and I can't even pull the spoiler up.

 

[Konrad]

If glueing in the servo, don't forget to embed a cut wire should you need to cut free a servo with stripped gears. I don't like glued in servos for the very reason that I strip gears or have motors fall out of the servo housing. At this price point I'd use servo trays.

Well, now it looks like you choose the correct size servo for the spoilers.

 

[thenated0g]

Servo wires add 44g of weight, so not really anything at all.

 

[thenated0g]

@Konrad good idea. Im still in the thinking about it phase with them. Not a lot of room to do a servo mount. If i do glue them in i will use some kind of e6000 type glue (not hard stuff like epoxy or ca) and i will burry a steel strand under them or something like that.

 

[Konrad]

@thenated0g , I'm sorry I should have been clearer as to the servo cut wire. I like to use dental floss or carpet thread. These are easy to stow in the servo pocket. I don't like conductive steel wire! I had one short out on the expossed back side of the pin in the servo connector burning up my wiring harness and doing some damage to my wing.

I think this is a safety issue!

 

[gp49]

Dental floss

 

[Wayne]

Yep, dental floss, it has a wax on it usually.

 

[thenated0g]

Thats easy. Ill try add some hardpoints where i can.

 

[Mike W]

On the thermic Dream I enlarged the servo holes and plucked out the foam to epoxy the KST servo mounts to the sheeting.

 

[thenated0g]

Thanks. I have been considering that as well. I can just get some larger servo covers if i need to.

 

[Mike W]

The stock Top Model servo covers are over sized for the stock hole.

 

[thenated0g]

finally working on this full time. Started working on the internal wing wiring harness:



One thing i was wondering about, maybe its not a worry at all. But im will have 3 very long servo cables going from the cockpit to tail section. Should i wrap those in aluminum foil so they are not acting as a big broadcasting antenna?

 

[Wayne]

Curious what others suggest.

My own experience with my 3.5 meter plane is that I had a little issue with the elevator servo years ago and only on the one day. A buddy had a frequency radio and when he was near my plane the elevator would chatter. Never an issue since that one day. Digital servo is in the tail and the receiver is in the nose.

 

[thenated0g]

I guess it wouldnt hurt, its an easy fix. It will be all twisted cables. 2 servos and a satellite RX.

 

[Hank GB Z]

Looking good Nate. Signing on to follow progress

Hank

 

[Red]

I guess it wouldnt hurt, its an easy fix. It will be all twisted cables. 2 servos and a satellite RX.

Just tie a loose knot in the elevator and rudder servo cable right at the Rx. This serves as a cheap RF choke. I've see it work wonders.

 

[Konrad]

I was going stay out of this, but is there a reason you aren’t using a common bus bar schematic? This saves a lot on wire weight. See my Samsara thread for details. As this is a scale ship you will need nose weight. I like my weight to do something, nobody rides for free! I like to use ferrous beads (toroid chokes) as RF suppressors near the RX. I also use braided leads as I often run different gauge wires for the power leads and signal wire. Twisted wire works OK if you train the wire with a heat gun. Please do look at some of my builds for ideas on how to properly deal with system integration on this class of model.

 

[thenated0g]

From what I have read from the different forums around the internet about this plane, from people trying to save weight like replacing the solid wingspar with something lighter, is that this plane likes to fly heavy and when you lighten it it doesn't fly as well so I'll probably just leave it as is for now.
Left wing wiring done. And tested

 

[Konrad]

From what I have read from the different forums around the internet about this plane, from people trying to save weight like replacing the solid wingspar with something lighter, is that this plane likes to fly heavy and when you lighten it it doesn't fly as well so I'll probably just leave it as is for now.
Left wing wiring done. And tested
View attachment 16600

That is true for just about all gliders when looking at the top end of the performance speed range. Adding lightness is an attempt to expand the slow side of the performance envelope. With a light(er) build and ballast we can have our cake and eat it too.

 

[Wayne]

Nate - I suggest you remove both flaps, then put the right one on the left side in the upside down position and the left one on the right side in the upside down position. This will give you bottom hinged flaps and will be much more practical for our slope sites.

Might want to take some measurements and to confirm they have similar sizing, but should work. I have done this on other models with good results.

p.s. This is one of the changes I'm trying to have done in future orders.