thenated0g
Moderator
looks cool
Gotcha - thanks Guys.Thinner CA is best to ensure soaking into the plastic as well as the wood.
Actually, all of my designs use aerofoil surfaces, too - even the fins. It's the best way.Hey Doc,
As an active 100 year old modeler I have seen a great deal of our hobby, and still enjoying the challenges!
I liked the Jim Kirkland models and learned to really ring out a full house ship with his Beach Comber design series.
All of his models used airfoiled surfaces, which in my mind made them more effective, and aerodynamic.
Phil Kraft Quick Fly 3 was in fact an easy build model and I still have 2 of his kits on my shelf. There is something
about flat tail surfaces though that rattle my senses.
My favorite airplane? The Taube warping wings, tail and all.
Tom
LOL - I hate the flat surfaces on some full scale planes like a J3 cub, but can't argue with how well they work on that plane.
Alternatively, a plastic rear bolt?I had been planning to do a single bolt near the spar, and a small nylon (3mm) screw in the back that only acted as an alignment pin. This would allow the pin the shear if the wing tip hit something, and hopefully save the wing from more damage. I like your magnet idea. I had not seen that done before.
And works well.Yeah, that is what I have done. Plastic bolt in the rear, pin in the front. Simple, light and clean.
Hah! sorry bout that. I hate "feature creep". But seriously, I think you're onto something here with the carefully chosen 3d printed airframe assemblies - lots of possibilities, and still very customizable by the builder with the mostly traditional built up wood construction.Oh sure, throw out a great idea just when I tell you I'm done. LOL
I like it. Will add that to the future development plan.