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Ridge Runt Evo - Build Thread Comments

Hmm, looks like a little scrap would may need to be added to fill that out. I'll need to check on this and see how this issue popped up. Sorry about this!
 
Hmm, looks like a little scrap would may need to be added to fill that out. I'll need to check on this and see how this issue popped up. Sorry about this!
So fwiw, the wing per the plans (and measuring mine) is 7.25" from LE to TE. But the distance from the front of the saddle to the rear, where the decking sits, is 7.5". Again, this is both on the plans and on the real model. Not a big deal....I'm just confused as to how people are able to build it without this gap?
 
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Yeah, just confirmed mine has this gap too. Need to add a 1/4" of material to the rear decking.
 
I think the 1/4" gap combined with no CG on the plans completely unacceptable. I think I deserve an entire new kit. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :LOL:
 
CG is on the spar.. Anywhere on the spar. But I suggest the rear of the spar. Start at the center of the spar for maiden flight. I'm silly and put spars right on the CG when I can.
 
i have one last ridge Runt Non Listed. its missing one Carbon Spar its 1x6mm but can easy be replace for 2 strips 1x3 an can include that in the kit. i can guarantee it will work
if anyone else need this last kit just let me know

waiting for the next carbon batch to arrive to put more kits online...
 
Carbon should arrive Monday according to tracking. Then we will have a lot of kits. :)

Well, I drew up a new servo tray for the electric, allowing the elevator servo to move back under the wing pretty far.
Screenshot 2025-04-04 at 3.40.57 PM.webp

Then we completed our electric install in the electric prototype, and I don't think we need to move the servo back that far. I thought it would be needed to slide the battery through the B2 Bulkhead, but looks like it will CG fine without that. Servo can mount to the other side of B2 and all is good. We will confirm pretty soon.
RR electric - 1.webp
 
Here's how I made the servo covers removable. Just a bit of scrap balsa to support the covers, and then some strips of balsa around the frame to give the covering something to hold on to.
 

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Wayne,
When will you have more of these kits. I want to build one. I’m going on a slope trip with Gittins. To camp and fly.
Rubio
 
Back home after my trip, built the nose and was onto the wing, got the servos installed into the plastic center wing pieces, went to the next step and lost faith that my building surface was perfectly level (framed cork board). I think I better find a solution before I end up building a warped wing. But, so far so good. I might move onto the tail this week while I figure out where to build my wing.
 
Back home after my trip, built the nose and was onto the wing, got the servos installed into the plastic center wing pieces, went to the next step and lost faith that my building surface was perfectly level (framed cork board). I think I better find a solution before I end up building a warped wing. But, so far so good. I might move onto the tail this week while I figure out where to build my wing.

I still have not found a cork board or ceiling tiles that were flat enough to use. On my last few smaller models, I've bought like a 2x4 foot foam board, cut it in half lengthwise, then spray glued the two halves together back to back, so that any bends effectively cancel themselves out (then I leave it under a flat shelf piece over night). It works pretty well, assuming your actual building surface you put it on is flat.
 
Another one built and sanded, ready for covering! These build quick! Probably more time sanding than building, lol. Not counting beer time…..😎
 

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I still have not found a cork board or ceiling tiles that were flat enough to use. On my last few smaller models, I've bought like a 2x4 foot foam board, cut it in half lengthwise, then spray glued the two halves together back to back, so that any bends effectively cancel themselves out (then I leave it under a flat shelf piece over night). It works pretty well, assuming your actual building surface you put it on is flat.
I have had good luck finding 12” x 12” x 1/8” or 1/4” thick cork “tiles” from my local Ace hardware, usually sold in sets of 4. 3M spray 77 the tiles onto a piece of unwarped shelving or 1/2” or 3/4” ply. Portable, cheap, flat.
 
Man I miss the old days lol. Great Planes used to sell Balsa building boards for about $40 that were laminated about 3/4" thick. Mine is about 16" x 48", you can see it here. I get it resurfaced every so often at the local wood shop, they run it through their surface sander and take about 1/64" off to the the glue blobs I eventually get on it. I took it for granted for many years, with balsa prices now I am much more careful! It's like it is gold plated now haha.

EDIT: Found an old listing for one. Man this hobby has changed so much over the years. https://www.greathobbies.com/produc...tI68-Zk-zX4ctA-8Z895CjVNz3Ly5fKdccYcLs1pjkTMm
 

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It would appear that the best way forward on the electric fuse. is to just rotate the elevator servo tray around to the rear side of B2, then reroute
the Bowden down the left side of the Fuse. Fabricate new supports for the cable at B3 & B4. It might help the curvature of the cable if the servo
was mounted upside down also.

TOM
 
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