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Ridge Runt Evo - Build Thread Comments
- Thread starter mjgillen
- Start date
Red
Very Strong User
The problem with this though is covering over CA sucks.
Fuselage is done except for final sanding. I made a couple small errors, but they seem to have worked themselves out in the end. The only place I really diverged from the instructions was to use wood glue to attach the top and bottom deck, and also to laminate the nose pieces. I like to use wood glue any place where I know I'm going to have to sand, and where I want a little bit of extra working time.
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That is a very good point!! Wood glue is far better choice if you are not in a hurry.
I added some notes to the main build thread for this.
Also added some notes about gaps on the canopy - Don't worry too much as we will probably need to sand in a bit of gapping before covering.
Has everyone's canopies been fitting well? I was very pleased to find I was able to do all of my sanding with just the magnets holding the canopy in place.
I added some notes to the main build thread for this.
Also added some notes about gaps on the canopy - Don't worry too much as we will probably need to sand in a bit of gapping before covering.
Has everyone's canopies been fitting well? I was very pleased to find I was able to do all of my sanding with just the magnets holding the canopy in place.
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My canopy fit pretty well. There's a bit of a gap on the bottom of the right side, which you can see in the picture. I'm not exactly sure what caused that. On the left side there's a small gap at the front, but its straight, so I should be able to fix it with a thin strip of balsa.
I'd even out the bottom gap with a little sanding, should be perfect for covering at that point. I spaced the magnets a bit on mine, this sat the rear a tiny bit higher. I thought I was being tricky at the time, but think it worked against me.
We may need to make the decking a little longer and let people sand it back a bit to avoid the top gap issue. A little easier than added more wood later.
We may need to make the decking a little longer and let people sand it back a bit to avoid the top gap issue. A little easier than added more wood later.
I think one side of my magnet might not have seated all the way into the former, so I'm not sure if sanding the bottom will really help it sit lower, or just make the gap more even.
I am wondering how I will handle the covering on the fuselage in the part, given the inner plywood doubler. Did you bring the covering onto the doubler, or cut it at corner?
I am wondering how I will handle the covering on the fuselage in the part, given the inner plywood doubler. Did you bring the covering onto the doubler, or cut it at corner?
I'll show what I did in the build thread, but yes. Wrap covering as much as you can. Fully stick all of the edges, folding over into the wing opening, etc. At the plywood for the canopy opening I just trimmed to the corner of the plywood and ironed the heck out of it. I then carefully use a heat gun to shrink the middle areas.
I will say that I am not a covering artist like many here. I fuddle my way through it. This time I used one sheet on the bottom that wrapped up the sides. Then covered the top decking.
I will say that I am not a covering artist like many here. I fuddle my way through it. This time I used one sheet on the bottom that wrapped up the sides. Then covered the top decking.
It is not needed. The bottom does not get covered in wood, so some sanding there might be worth your while. I think I sanded the top of mine a bit simply due to me being messy with the spar cap glue.
p.s. I had started the build with an old bottle of glue. Eventually I ran that bottle dry and started a new bottle with a new tip. Wow glue control was WAY better. I wish I had started with a new tip as you can get a fraction of the glue, and put it exactly where needed.
p.s. I had started the build with an old bottle of glue. Eventually I ran that bottle dry and started a new bottle with a new tip. Wow glue control was WAY better. I wish I had started with a new tip as you can get a fraction of the glue, and put it exactly where needed.
Speaking of glue tips (literally and figuratively), here's one for thin CA that I learned from a friend, who in turn got it from Tony, of Tony and Addie's Hobby Lobby, the late, great hobby shop in Burbank, CA.
Get a piece of thin teflon tubing. Using a t-pin or tack, poke a hole near the neck of the CA bottle (there's no need to ever open up the actual glue tip of the bottle). Then, simply feed the tubing down into the hole and into the bottom of the bottle. And that's it! you'll now be able to deliver thin CA incredibly precisely. And because it's a teflon tube, it never almost never clogs. Even if it does clog, it will only be at the very end, and you can just snip that off.
One warning is to always stop the end of it when your building session is done (as you can see I've done here with a t-pin). Otherwise, in certain conditions, I guess caplillary action or something can take hold, and the CA will just start leaking out by itself (ask me how I know).
Get a piece of thin teflon tubing. Using a t-pin or tack, poke a hole near the neck of the CA bottle (there's no need to ever open up the actual glue tip of the bottle). Then, simply feed the tubing down into the hole and into the bottom of the bottle. And that's it! you'll now be able to deliver thin CA incredibly precisely. And because it's a teflon tube, it never almost never clogs. Even if it does clog, it will only be at the very end, and you can just snip that off.
One warning is to always stop the end of it when your building session is done (as you can see I've done here with a t-pin). Otherwise, in certain conditions, I guess caplillary action or something can take hold, and the CA will just start leaking out by itself (ask me how I know).
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We even sell the tube:
But I like these the best: (for thin CA)
But I like these the best: (for thin CA)
Just finished building the left wing. The build was quite enjoyable. The wing seems quite strong as far as bending, but pretty twisty as far as torsional resistance goes. Has anyone given a thought to adding actual vertical shear webs to the spar, or does it really not make a difference?
Also, has anyone considered making the servo covers removable? I've had little servos like these die on a couple planes, and I'd like to be able to get at them without cutting into the covering.
Also, has anyone considered making the servo covers removable? I've had little servos like these die on a couple planes, and I'd like to be able to get at them without cutting into the covering.
Tahoed
Very Strong User
It's just a little sloper. Don't over think it.
RafaelAvila
Moderator
That's ok, because we're using a really great servos, its probably will last the whole airplane life, I been using this servos since its was released and never had a bad one.
