The elevator pushrod seems to have a lot of friction once the curve is set in the fin. I recall a similar issue with the original RR, which is why I would use a throttle cable in a gold pushrod, versus the plastic in plastic. On the Evo, I'm thinking about just using the metal rod by itself inside the gray housing, rather then using the inner white pushrod as well. Anyone else?
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Ridge Runt Evo - Build Thread Comments
- Thread starter mjgillen
- Start date
Ah.. what? That would be a ton of play and make elevator control nearly worthless. Please make sure the ends of both the grey and the white housings are round at the ends. If they are cut with nippers, they will be flattened out and increase the friction. You can use something like a phillips head screwdriver to help round them out. But try not to flare the white one either. A bit of sanding on the white ends may help, using fine grit paper.
Both ends seem perfectly round. I tested the push rod before gluing it to the fin and it seemed smooth for what it's worth (I was also careful not to get any glue in the end of the push rod). I guess if these servos have enough torque it shouldn't be an issue.
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It will have some resistance, just the nature of the beast. We like these pushrods as they have worked really well for us the last 10 years. Asking them to take a bend like this is never ideal, but has worked fine on our tests.
Ahh I see you have added some filler to the wood. Well done.
Ahh I see you have added some filler to the wood. Well done.
Shoelace
Very Strong User
Hmm... That's odd... Mine is smooth as silk. Perhaps put a little graphite on the cable? Would that help things out?
It's tight even without the bulkheads installed. I can feel it start to get friction when it reaches the curve in the fin.
I tried a bit of graphite on the wire and inner tube, which helped a bit. It's not like it's super hard to move...its just not nearly as smooth as when it goes through the part without the curve.
I tried a bit of graphite on the wire and inner tube, which helped a bit. It's not like it's super hard to move...its just not nearly as smooth as when it goes through the part without the curve.
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RafaelAvila
Moderator
ne of my experiences with pushrods is as follows: when you try to insert a music wire that has been cut, it’s not perfect, and the tip can damage the inside of the pushrod to the point of even clogging it. What I recommend is to sand the tip of the music wire before inserting it into the pushrod housing. This can help prevent this issue. I’m not sure how Wayne is doing it, but you could also assemble the whole setup with the music wire already installed. I’m not certain if this will work well, but as I mentioned, sand and smooth the tip of the music wire before inserting it into its housing, and make sure it fits FREELY in the bulkheads. If necessary, use a drill to enlarge the holes in the bulkheads through which the pushrod passes, so that it fits freely without any pressure on it. After everything is assembled, you can use a bit of glue to secure it in the bulkhead holes.
Yeah, I think it'll be okay. I tested out the inner tube and push rod pinned to the plans, following The curve, and the resistance on the metal rod wasn't any worse with when it was all installed in the outer push rod following the bulkheads.
I do have another question for you guys, which is how are you going to do the linkage to the elevator servo. Like on the original Ridge Runt, the push rod reaches the servo lower than where the arm is. As you can see in my second picture, I used a EZ connector mounted upside down, underneath the servo arm, to accommodate this. That worked pretty well, but I don't know if there are better ways to do it.
BTW, I'm glad I took this pic, as I just noticed that I lost the plastic keeper on the quick link!
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Wait...are you not using the white inner sleeve? Or is it just not visible?
RafaelAvila
Moderator
And this is how we do in the elevator just a simple L shape that makes easy and simple approach, that's let you remove the elevator when need for transport
Just posted some photos with the motor installed. I have to admit that I was not sure I'd be able to use this fuselage as I had sanded as a glider nose, how bad will the spinner fit up be?. I'm a bit shocked to discover it fits this well considering the glider nose is not symmetrical vertically.
Still need to sand my ailerons, I didn't have access to a flat building surface today for that step. Trying to figure out what colors I'll use. Thinking translucent Red with White and a bit of CarbonFiber.
Hey on the plus side as an electric I don't have to cover a nose.
Still need to sand my ailerons, I didn't have access to a flat building surface today for that step. Trying to figure out what colors I'll use. Thinking translucent Red with White and a bit of CarbonFiber.
Hey on the plus side as an electric I don't have to cover a nose.
I think I see another source of Bowden heart burn, it occurs at B3 and B4 where rather sharp bends take place
to get from fuselage CL over to the right side. Some of the plan view photo shots clearly show it. A more
gentle S curve is needed.
A red fuse and vertical with white wings and stab. Black trim and canopy my choice
Tom
to get from fuselage CL over to the right side. Some of the plan view photo shots clearly show it. A more
gentle S curve is needed.
A red fuse and vertical with white wings and stab. Black trim and canopy my choice
Tom
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Looks good Wayne. I hesitate at using any sort of transparent wing covering on a built up slope model, since any sort of patches needed due to torn covering end up looking not great. I've got some pearl yellow Ultracote I've been wanting to use for a long time, and I'm hoping on using that for the wing. The fuse will either be white or black (or red?), I think.
CNC'ed leading edges would be a nice touch. Might be ready to cover by this afternoon!!
