Redshift; Used Purchase

[Konrad]

Where have you set the CG?
Now that I've got my Strega repaired (it is in the paint shop) I need to get back to my Redshift.
You found (received) the sales receipt that shows the vendor ("real Redshift").
There are enough issues with the V1 that I'd like to see a V2 (new features), if the market place will allow.

All the best,
Konrad

 

[purview]

enough issues with the V1 that I'd like to see a V2 (new features), if the market place will allow

that's way out of purview's scope.


Soon I'll measure CG and let u know in the evening (~UTC-1), maybe I get a short video too. today is good forecast up to 10m/s

 

[purview]

sorry I forgot to measure. it was too stressful and so many people on the slope

u get it soon, I stick it together in the hobbyroom and measure it for you.

hang on dude

 

[purview]

I located the line of pitch moment where the mass (the split volumes of the ibject where the net forces are drawn and must be connect to) is in equilibrium of not too much tucking and not poisonly overshooting at 103mm itis a few mm before the first chequer block ends

...at least one redshift I know flies well with CG 103mm

(the plane is a bit tricky to set up to suit to my flying style. but I am sure to get it right because the sound of this plane is amazing and I'd like to hear more and hope to get as many flying hours as possible ;-)

 

[Konrad]

Thank you. That's one data point. I'll try to put the fuse ballast tube for the CG at 105mm. I'll shim forward to match my style of flying.
Again thanks.

All the best,
Konrad

 

[jvaliensi]

I'd rather have a full "D" tube leading edge.
I recently built a very light F3 RES model. It had a cut away "D" tube wing. Before I added the covering the wing was so flexible. The covering added a significant amount of torsional stiffness to the wing. There are many F3 RES models with no to little sheeting on the wing, I'm sure the covering is structural in nature.

 

[Konrad]

I'd rather have a full "D" tube leading edge.
I recently built a very light F3 RES model. It had a cut away "D" tube wing. Before I added the covering the wing was so flexible. The covering added a significant amount of torsional stiffness to the wing. There are many F3 RES models with no to little sheeting on the wing, I'm sure the covering is structural in nature.

Wrong thread? Most composite structures are stressed skin affairs (for the most part).
Here is my last F3-RES build.

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[jvaliensi]

Not sure how I sent the message to the wrong thread?

 

[Doc J]

Where have you set the CG?
Now that I've got my Strega repaired (it is in the paint shop) I need to get back to my Redshift.
You found (received) the sales receipt that shows the vendor ("real Redshift").
There are enough issues with the V1 that I'd like to see a V2 (new features), if the market place will allow.

All the best,
Konrad

"Real Redshift" ???
I'm curious on this, who was the vendor for this model? So far we only had a mysterious lady of the lake...

Konrad a new Redshift II - Redshift Spada is coming.

Same shape wing with slightly modified aerofoils, larger tailbones, completely different bottom loading fuse, wing ballast only.

Cheers,

The very good Doc.

 

[Konrad]

Doc, The lady of the lake really isn’t that unusual.

I was surprised to learn just how many of these glass slippers really come from the secondary market (used, change hands). For example my RedShift was a used purchase. Ok, it was yours and acquired through a reputable agent. It is unfortunate but this hobby is graying, and as such there are far too many estate sales, or just give a ways as we loose our eye sight.

This is good news about the Redshift Spada. If my rework (upgrade) of the V1 tail is a success, I just might see about getting some "new old stock". Looking at my model the tail linkage really is the only flaw. Yes, there are a lot of personal preferance issues. But this is the case with all products, and why I like to build my own. And short of that assemble my own ships.

I did offer Wayne some drilled out 4mm spherical joints in hopes that he will use them on the glass prototype. This should give the needed clearance back there and add 10% (0.5mm) to the V-tail horns.

All the best,
Konrad

 

[Konrad]

Been working on my Redshift. As I’ve mentioned earlier one of the few design flaws I’ve noticed is the the V-tail hinging and fuselage clearance don’t allow for long enough control horns. (approx. 5mm)
To address this I’ve flipped the V tail to move the live hinge down away from the top of the fuselage. This should allow me to effectively add 2.5mm or more to the control arms. As I want the "more" I made a quick and dirty mold to allow me to make a bumped cover. These bumps in the cover should allow the clevis arms to run without hitting the cover or the fuselage. Along with the fuselage outline one needs to be aware of the centerline constraint for the other V tail’s arm.

I love that the design is using the other side of the fuselage to support the stab joiners by going all the way through the side. You can see where I’ve filled the original locations. I now have to make a teardrop fairing to streamline the 1mm to 2mm of the rod that passes through the fuselage. I’m thinking of making a mask out of tape as shown. Make up some epoxy micro ballon mixture to build up the area. Remove the tape and then just let the epoxy flow until it hardens. Anybody have a better way to make the rear drop fairings?

I often wonder why the control horn window is biased so far aft? It isn't just the Redshift but also the Stregas that have the window so far aft. As these are both designed by the same man maybe he can shed some light on this question?

Wayne have you look at the other method I provided to minimize the double centering you are seeing with your glass prototype (I think mine is an early carbon prototype)?

 

[Motowncali]

I like the idea of flipping the stabs to put the hinges on the bottom, that should help a lot with extending the control horns length.

 

[Doc J]

All good stuff, Konrad.

I'll be here with a really good way to make fairings later.

Cheers,

Doc.

 

[Konrad]

Thanks guys.
Doc, I'll wait your input before I do anything rash.

 

[Doc J]

Hi Guys - OK best way to do this. (Actually for such a small fairing Bondo would work well and its a snip to sand.)

1. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use MICROBALLOONS!!!!!! If you have any - find someone you hate and make them a gift.
They are round so whatever you do, they try to flow with gravity, and they have zero strength

2. Mix colloidal silica with epoxy to the consistency of butter or perhaps a little stiffer.

3. Masking tape the areas where you don't want the filler.

4. Roughen the surface and clean with alcohol - note this is done after masking.

5. Apply the filler into the place to be filled and work it in firmly with a spatula.

6. Nip into the kitchen and quickly nick one of "She who must be obeyed" prized silver tea spoons. (Use the self-neutraliser that you bought on eBay to completely forget to mention this to her)

7. The the spoon has a lot of nice curves, so use the most suitable one to spurge the excess filler off to leave a lovely fillet.

With practise you can alter the spoon's position as you work along the fillet if you want to change the curve a little.

DEATH TO MICROBALOONS!

Doc.

 

[Konrad]

Thanks.

I agree about micro balloons, if you don't want the epoxy to flow away from where you put it.

I can tell you haven't seen how shakey my hands are. That is why I don't want to use radiuses tools to make a tear drop. It's hopeless!

I'm thinking that I'll cut a mask to the shape shown. I'll put the epoxy micro balloon mix over the protrusion and onto the mask. Remove the gross aplication. Then lift up the mask carrying away the unwanted extra epoxy micro balloon mix. And here is where I'm expecting the bad properties of micro balloons to help me out. I will then place the fuse such that the mixture will flow making a nice smooth tear dropped fairing.

If I can't get it to flow by gravity alone I think I'll add some heat.

 

[Konrad]

On using radius tools, do you use water to keep the tool clean and the epoxy from sticking to it. Or does the tool need to be silver?

 

[Doc J]

On using radius tools, do you use water to keep the tool clean and the epoxy from sticking to it. Or does the tool need to be silver?

Hi Konrad - I have used IPA while actually making the fillet which works well. It seems to be one of the only easily available and not too toxic thinners that does not degrade epoxy.

As to cleaning the spoons after - alcohol - then carefully re-insert the stolen spoon back into the "trouble and strife's" spoon cupboard or drawer.

Say no more!

Doc.

 

[jvaliensi]

WEST SYSTEMS 410 Microlight filler is very good for making fillets. I mix it up with slow cure epoxy and get it to the consistency of bondo.
When it is cured it sands easily. It is so light when you hold the container you'd swear its empty.

I still have my original tube of K&B Microballons from 1980. I've not used them all and never will now that I know better!

 

[Konrad]

Hi Konrad - I have used IPA while actually making the fillet which works well. It seems to be one of the only easily available and not too toxic thinners that does not degrade epoxy.

As to cleaning the spoons after - alcohol - then carefully re-insert the stolen spoon back into the "trouble and strife's" spoon cupboard or drawer.

Say no more!

Doc.

IPA=India Pale Ale?