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Redshift; Used Purchase

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Lately I had the chance to visit a slope and figure out how my fuselage repair feels (4th of July #199). It flies way better than before and it is a definitely a keeper...
IMG_20201022_115010.jpg


An excellent trip to the location of my last horrible landing approach with this F3f slope-ship:
 
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Now that the F3F race season is over in the San Francisco bay area for 2020 I'm getting back to repairing my Redshift. All I have left is hinging a flap and making a new nose radius for the slip on nose cone.

Then the greatest single thing I can to to improve my times is sport fly the Redshift in the off season.
 
Konrad said:
Now that the F3F race season is over in the San Francisco bay area for 2020 I'm getting back to repairing my Redshift. All I have left is hinging a flap and making a new nose radius for the slip on nose cone.

Then the greatest single thing I can to to improve my times is sport fly the Redshift in the off season.
Click to expand...

I made the nose radius wrong - misunderstood the FAI rules - sorry Konrad. actually it would make no difference at all to the result of an impact.

I'd still like to see the fuselage repairs above though, or at least a description. Always interesting to see how others do it.

Yep, if you fly laps = especially if you can get a buddy to coach, as its hard to see your own mistakes or habits - you will get quicker. My fastest time with a Strega (surprise surprise) was 34.4 and I'm sure I'll never get better than that.

Cheers and happy flying.

Doc.
 
(I) left the fuselage aside and was a bit frustrated. But Konrad with his thread and pics and misshap(s..) motivated me to try to repair the fuse (remember a new fuselage from taiwan was a bit uneconomic to order).

Konrad said:
Ok, so what did you do to repair the fuselage? Also what did you do to get her to fly better?
Click to expand...

It is very simple, it works but I WON't get a beauty award for that repair (no sanding, painting or waxing). I simply used four squared carbon boxes to bridge the gapped ballast tube and glued them all together into the inside of the tube and this into the inside of the fuse. On the outside I wrapped it with glass and carbon clothes. (The picture is only for imagination to see that 4 objects can put into one bigger)

IMG_20201030_072735.jpg


2nd question is not a big surprise Konrad, it is as follows: I try to delete my mixes from every errot I can detect. As I did many researches in different forums, magazines and spoke to slopers, it is time to figure out what works and what won't work on this type of Redshift planform/concept/design with all it's uniquenessness within the F3F type of planes.

The other part is myself on the sticks. This is also one big part for my personal training fun (... Take a hobby serious or u will get serious
 
purview said:
(I) left the fuselage aside and was a bit frustrated. But Konrad with his thread and pics and misshap(s..) motivated me to try to repair the fuse (remember a new fuselage from taiwan was a bit uneconomic to order).



It is very simple, it works but I WON't get a beauty award for that repair (no sanding, painting or waxing). I simply used four squared carbon boxes to bridge the gapped ballast tube and glued them all together into the inside of the tube and this into the inside of the fuse. On the outside I wrapped it with glass and carbon clothes. (The picture is only for imagination to see that 4 objects can put into one bigger)

View attachment 5127

2nd question is not a big surprise Konrad, it is as follows: I try to delete my mixes from every errot I can detect. As I did many researches in different forums, magazines and spoke to slopers, it is time to figure out what works and what won't work on this type of Redshift planform/concept/design with all it's uniquenessness within the F3F type of planes.

The other part is myself on the sticks. This is also one big part for my personal training fun (... Take a hobby serious or u will get serious
Click to expand...
Sugar wafers and coffee stir stick to model the repair? So you gave up the in fuselage ballasting of the Redshift, as this where you put the reinforcements across the break.
 
Please do following improvement on the tail within the next generation of Redshift fuses (like Pic) :
IMG_20201122_104933.jpg


The carb rods should go through the structure and can be way thicker. Just my advice. The fuselage thickness on this section is OK and the stabs can be better fixed with two crossings through fuse with proper material.
 
Hum? The original Redshift manual supports the idea of carrying the stab joiners through the opposite fuselage wall.
forum.alofthobbies.com

Redshift; Used Purchase

Where have you set the CG? Now that I've got my Strega repaired (it is in the paint shop) I need to get back to my Redshift. You found (received) the sales receipt that shows the vendor ("real Redshift"). There are enough issues with the V1 that I'd like to see a V2 (new features), if the...
forum.alofthobbies.com forum.alofthobbies.com

Don't know how the carbon rods could be made thicker (larger diameter) and not violate the stab profile (airfoil).

The only problem I saw with the V tail was that the control horns were too short. Also "I'd" like to see a V-tail angle closer to 104°-100°. All issues being addressed.
 
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I only know about the epoxy filets that can glued inside the fuse to stab the stab joiners through. The opposite fuselage wall solution needs longer rods. The foil can handle a larger diameter.

v-tail angle is correct, you really can twist and pressure it in the corner/turn. ButU must be sensitive
, other wise it wigglezz ↔️

Is the change of this carbon rod to one with a larger diameter also a mould problem (to change the aluminium plate?)??
 
Really, you are concerned with the 2mm needed to push through the fuselage wall? As to a larger diameter I see it as a geometry issue, the stabs just aren't thick enough to be able to use a larger diameter rod. I though this was your concern "The carb rods should go through the structure and can be way thicker". The 5mm solid carbon rods are more than strong enough, maybe too strong!

I've only got 2 dozen flight on my Redshift, and can say that in normal flight the tail responds fine. I did get into a high speed stall once. And had to actively use a lot of rudder to get out of the stall/spin. Normally when I get into a high speed stall, pulling the bases, I just let off the elevator and actually apply a bit of down (forward stick). Wait for the air to reattach and go my merry way. With the one high speed stall with my rather aft CG this was not enough, I had to use a lot of rudder along with forward stick.

I'd like to suffer a bit of wetted area drag and get a better trimmed aircraft. The smoother flight will more than make up for any surface drag. Like I've said engineering is a compromise. And I want more rudder action. So to keep the surface area the same I think with the airfoils used we sacrifice the elevator in favor of the rudder in the v-tail angle. (Actually I'd like just a bit more area, but I'm not a world class racer).
 
it seems that I've more ground problems than you with Redshift. Your feedback is more concerning the topic on what it was designed for...

So do some planes and will not recover from spins with located CG back – is not a new phenomenon. Energy management* how is it not a compromise.

Will you try to reproduce that high speed stall? With the same control input? I've figured out that elevator must have authority. I suspect a wrong setup(I also suspect a wrong setup for my not so fast times on F3F, not yet in reach with the big dogs) My fastest measured Redshift time is 56


Chris


*it refers to your description of the few 0.sec when getting into troubles while the plane turns. Every action or control input do need some more energy sucked out of the momentum's plane:
Konrad said:
Normally when I get into a high speed stall, pulling the bases, I just let off the elevator and actually apply a bit of down (forward stick). Wait for the air to reattach and go my merry way. With the one high speed stall with my rather aft CG this was not enough, I had to use a lot of rudder along with forward stick
Click to expand...
 
This post corresponds with the first NCSS F3F race of the season this Sunday!

I'd like to see the large LE fillet kept. I also like the inverted servo tray! It looks like the tail center bulb is a bit larger than the original Redshift. I hope this allows for longer control arms.

I don't see the slip on nose cone part line. I hope it is slanted a few degrees forward, to take the impact of my lands a bit better than a 90° part line.

As an F3F racer, I have a concern with what looks like a prop. Not that I have a problem with props. But I'm concerned that the fuselage might not have the lowest cross section possible to make room for flight batteries.

I've given up (for now) on repairing the Redshift I damaged (the one that was the subject of this thread). I will work on finishing my second NIB purchase RedShift.

I will say that based of the 2 dozen of so flights I had on the RedShift I liked it a lot more than the dated Strega. While a lot of this is subjective the only real problem I found with the original RedShift design was that the tail cone (bulb) was too small for any reasonable control arm.

Do you think we might see some hardware by the middle of the season?

All the best,
Konrad
 
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