From Google translate:
Model RC Pirat 1.5M
I warmly welcome and congratulate you on your choice. I hope that the product of our company will give you full satisfaction and satisfaction in moments spent in the air as well as when assembling the set. At the beginning, my request to treat this manual only as a guide, all your own solutions or ideas are very welcome, and even indicated.
Let's remember about four principles - which in our opinion - will allow you to achieve full success and satisfaction with the model you have just acquired:
- before proceeding to assembly, carefully read the instructions and
auxiliary drawings
- check the exact fit of the elements before gluing
- all glued surfaces must be pre-matted, ie polished
sandpaper (grain thickness about 240) - this applies mainly to sticking plywood in the hull, laminating the tow ball, pasting the inner nose into the main part of the hull
- pay attention to the aesthetics, clean and nicely made model combined with good volatile properties will give you full satisfaction in use
WING
At the beginning, we slightly crush (about 1mm) polystyrene under the veneer cover around the whole perimeter of the profile - which will ensure better bonding of both parts after gluing.
Then we place the center-plane on a flat surface and glue the two ends at a height of 62mm. At this stage of assembly, it is convenient and practical to use an epoxy adhesive as bonding agent with a setting time of approx. 5 minutes.
All connection points of individual parts of the wing are reinforced from the top and bottom by strips of glass fabric. Due to the good penetration ability, it is advisable to use an epoxy adhesive with a long bonding time - which will guarantee the best durability of the joint.
Next, we drill two Ø4mm holes for bolts securing the panel to the hull. After thoroughly drying the epoxy resin, we grind the whole piece (240 grain sandpaper) - including the places where the fabric was glued. At this stage, care should be taken not to wipe the fabric directly at the connection point of individual elements. After these treatments, the flap is prepared to be covered with an impregnation that protects the wood from moisture. Prime the primed wings with paper (preferably with 1000 grit), preparing for the final varnishing with a clear or colored varnish. Personally, we use wood impregnation based on nitro diluent or spirit, and varnish - semi-matt, synthetic origin with a UV filter.
fin
Horizontal stabilizer is ready - it is enough to polish, impregnate and varnish.
The vertical stabilizer is covered with Japanese paper or the Oracover Film cover foil. Then attach it to the hull using a self-adhesive tape.
FUSELAGE
We glue the plywood in the winged part of the hull in places where the fastening screws will pass. According to pre-prepared holes φ 4mm in the panel - drill the holes in the hull properly. Then, drill holes in the hull to a dimension of φ 5.5mm.
Drill the holes from the bottom of the drilled holes and secure them with cyanoacrylate adhesive.
Fixing the horizontal stabilizer can be done: fixed (ballast permanently glued) or with the possibility of disassembly (ballast screwed with M3 bolt)
If we decided to screw it on - in the tail part of the hull (on the top of the vertical stabilizer), drill holes φ3mm according to the holes in the horizontal stabilizer and paste the nuts. The tail section of the hull is glued with a balsa block. We put the chassis on the φ2mm axis from the center to the hull and glue the ends on both sides with poplar boards to the fuselage (optionally we also laminate with glass fabric)
EQUIPMENT
We install the equipment in accordance with the drawing, please pay attention to the bowden fixing of the servo and the ballast. Bowden driving the aileron of the horizontal stabilizer should be attached to the hull in several places (especially on the bow), to avoid flex on the drive.
FLIGHT
For the first flights the model is pre-balanced so that the center of gravity is at a distance of 40mm from the leading edge of the airfoil.
In order to adapt the model to your own style of piloting or other external conditions, we provide proven ways to change the angle of wedging of the wings relative to the fin: To increase the wedge angle - different thickness of the washer under the tail flow or in the case of a static stabilizer - different thickness of the underlay.
To reduce the wedging angle - different thicknesses of the washer under the attack of the tail or under the flow of the airfoil.
When changing the angle of wedging, remember to compensate for the change in its characteristics by appropriate changes in the balance. For larger wedging angles, the center of gravity should be moved forward, for the smaller angles to the rear, so that the model tends to have a sliding flight.
All comments, observations and questions are welcome
alofthobbies.com
not to scale 
