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OMTech Lasers - 50w co2 laser engraver - build log and experience

Didnt get as much shop time over holiday as i thought i would, but did get some engraving and cutting in.
Machine loves anything in the 1/8 range. Engraving paint off stuff is a breeze and finally i can really bite into rocks. Its not super clean, but my daughter things its cool. And apparently it will remove bluing off of gun stuff and does plastic gun stocks very easily.
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So after a very frustrating start to "lasering" this weekend i finally discovered a fundamental thing and i have a much better understanding of the different issues i have been experiencing lately. Basically what has been happening is i will do some smaller test cuts on the left side of the table. It looks amazing, no burning on top, cuts cleanly thru on the bottom. So i go to do a full table cut and the right half of the table looks like garbage on top, tons of shadow burns around the cuts, and the bottom almost doesn't even cut thru in most spots on the right. What i realized pretty quick was the wood was not the same thickness or was raised slightly and so i couldn't set my cutting depth the same for the whole table.

Problem number two is that omtech sold me this table with the specific feature of "dual passthrough doors" so you can put pieces in larger than the cutting area. Well the problem with that is the closest i can get the materials to the nozzle is about 112mm. But to get a good cut it needs to be about 8mm at most. So impossible basically in current setup. Yeah i sent some nasty grams to tech support. And they have zero answers for me.

I dont remember the exact google/youtube search that led me to the answer to this but basically what it comes down to is that i have a specialized lens for engraving. Here is a nice pdf that kind of goes thru the different types of lenses, ill kind of sum it up here:

Basically there are different lenses for different tasks. They are rated in inches. The distance (focal distance) from the lens to the cutting material. On the one side you have 1.5 inches and on the other extreme you have 5 inches. Now there are others but these are the major ones.
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Here's the major point that i came to while reading this pdf and watching a bunch of comparison videos. The closer the focal length, the smaller the depth of focus. So in the case of the 1.5" lens, that i have, the depth of focus, the area that it cuts, is tiny. This is why the wood raising up even a couple of mm would change how it was cutting. Im trying to cut with an engraving lens. As you go up larger in focal length, that depth of focus gets significantly larger. The 2.5" for instance is good for up to 5/8" thickness.

And now i know that with a 4" lens i can actually use the passthrough doors on my table. Basically omtech doesnt know how to use the tables they sell. I would buy from them again, but now my expectations have been set.

So trying to teach myself this on my own i am learning the hard way. But it looks like a lot of guys just have a full range of lens' so they can switch them out depending on the task. I have a 2.5" on order from amazon, they are like $22. I tested it this morning and it takes less than a minute to drop the old parts out and put the new one in.

I am also assuming units like glowforges have a more general use lens like a 2.5 as it can be used for up to 500dpi engraving and nice cutting up to 1/2" so this may be the lens i just keep in it from now on. Ill post once i get it installed.

As far as cool stuff i got to once i got over that slight bump, i got my lightburn camera installed, its pretty slick. Lets me place my designs on material using the camera, glowforge style:
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And played around with some 1/8 acrylic this weekend as well. needs some leds.
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I am also assuming units like glowforges have a more general use lens like a 2.5 as it can be used for up to 500dpi engraving and nice cutting up to 1/2"
The head height/focus is motorized so they can automatically adjust focus depending on your material thickness and change it between passes or do curved surfaces.
 
Mine accomplishes the same thing with a z axis table. But in both cases the focal distance doesnt change, just where the material is right?
 
Had my laser cutter for a few years now i have done a lot of models with it and can tell you it will not cut fiber glass or carbon fiber first off fiberglass is made up with a resign as well as the carbon fiber and when cutting it the fumes are not good also capable of fire when cutting wood such as plywood it will cut and there is a but here it depends on the glue used to laminate the layers together some ply won't cut no matter how many pass you have it make just chars the wood it's great on engraving stuff good luck have fun don't forget your eye covering.

Dennis
 
Mine accomplishes the same thing with a z axis table. But in both cases the focal distance doesnt change, just where the material is right?
Sure, but what matters is that the material is within the depth of focus... i.e. if it is small you can probably achieve the same result but in a different way, take many shallow passes instead of few deep ones, and obviously you need the head trammed more precisely and nicely flat material...
 
Hey Nate - I hear you, with this warmer weather spell we are having, I find myself much more motivated. Sadly not much on the planes or the new CNC project. Too much going on with house projects at the moment. Anyway, I hope you know that I really love seeing your projects and enjoy working with you!

For those that don't know Nate has been working on a new flying wing kit and also some laser parts we will be offering on the site soon. The control horns in this last video is one of those products. :)

Take care!
 
Thanks wayne, it always passes. Covid just adding a little extra this year. I would have gotten out in the nice weather but got a tooth extraction last week that has kind of kicked my butt.
 
So i got my 2.5" lens in this past week. And than i sat down, watched some youtube videos on mirror alignment and took my time and went thru all the mirrors. Apparently whoever sets up these chinese machines does not check the mirrors at all positions. After aligning i found that i could get consistent cuts across my entire table and actually had to turn down the power settings i had been using, so that is great. Circles and corners are better as well. It still amazes me how simple cnc machines are. Especially compared to something like a laser printer. Very few parts and you can see everything and how it works.
 
Been really enjoying the Lightburn usb camera setup. Makes it very easy to use up every last scrap of material as i can place my designs in software and not worry about a piece of material being in a specific location on the table. Random cookie cutter pieces and scrap are instantly usable now.

Playing around with a wall mount design this weekend. 5mm back plate and 3mm arms.
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Yeah, I have to say that is a very neat solution to the problem. I have not seen that for other CNC machines. I could see that be very handy for a CNC router, etc.
 
Heres that wall mount up in use:
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Made up two other versions. One can hold a larger plane against the wall and a bigger one to ceiling mount a plane.
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Tape organizer
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And some stuff for aloft
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Started putting the wing hangers to work this weekend. And went thru a couple versions of corona servo holders for my sequoia 2m build.
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@Wayne i designed the cookie cutout based solely on the diagram in the product listing for the corona and its spot on. Only had to add a notch for the wires as they were not in the picture. But i mean were talking like 10 minutes of work up in those pictures. Block shaped stuff is super easy to design in lightburn. Still going over options to allow the wires to get where they need to go but honestly ill probably just hot glue them in place on top out of the way.
 
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