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OMTech Lasers - 50w co2 laser engraver - build log and experience

thenated0g

Moderator
I finally cracked and ordered a chinese laser cutter from omtechlaser.com. They are a company down in the LA area i think, they import them and make sure they are working, so you have a US based company for any problems. Its a 50w (probably 40w as most of the chinese lasers are rated at peak and you gotta keep it at 80% of that). 12x20 cutting area, same as glowforge, but has passthru. After shipping tax it comes out about $1,300 less than a glowforge. If you have any interest in the experience let me know. Im sure at some point ill do a little video about how well/not well it goes. I made sure to get one with a Ruida controller so i can easily transition over using the same Lightburn software im already used to on my little 5.5 diode laser engraver.

Heres the specific model i ordered with a 10% off coupon. Being in california the shipping was free which is usually $250-300.

Starting this thread here to document the experience.

Heres some related videos if you interested:

Made a base for the laser this weekend. The laser is 40" wide and 26x25 so it needs to be raised off the ground.
PXL_20201207_014303755.jpg
 
Heres a video i made on a program that will try and "nest" as many parts as you can. For instance how many 12x20 sheets could you cut out of a sheet of plywood:
 
Here's some links to the additional stuff/upgrades i have ordered:

co2 rated safety goggles:
just a good idea. Plus i dont know that the viewing window is rated to stop any power from the laser.

Analog ammeter:
The reason for the above is that the laser i ordered has a digital ammeter which is harder to use, its not an instant read. The reason you need an ammeter is that there is no safety on the laser to stop you from damaging it by overdriving it. So with the ammeter you can find out what max power is (do a burn at 100%), note the amps used and than never go above 80% of that amps. Also the amps used and the speed used are the common "recipe" numbers people use to share cutting recipes online. Not percent of power which would be different on every machine.

Aquarium thermometer to monitor the temp of the cooling water system:

6" thru wall vent:

25" of 6" ducting

390cfm 6" Hvac blower:
These blowers are much quieter than the included "pc fan" setup most lasers come with.

DSP version of lightburn software. I already had the lower version so it was only $40 to upgrade to dsp which is needed for these cabinet lasers (assuming you have the appropriate board in the laser).
 
One of the things i can do ahead of time is start working on "recipes". Basically setting up some spreadsheet like cuts that go thru various speeds and power ratings so i can find the "perfect" cut for a certain material:

1607476019847.png
 
If I send you a fiberglass plate and you see if you can cut it? Carbon plate?

Going to rename this forum to CNC.
 
I have some of your yellow g10 fiberglass plate and i some carbon (not sure on thickness) im sure you could look up my previous orders :)
Yeah i will test it, but from previous searches i think carbon may be too much. I think you would need a Fiber laser for carbon, thats whats used to engrave metal.

 
Yeah, I hear you. The issue with cutting the stuff will be the dust control. Probably best to outsource the job to someone with the gear, doing it commercially.

We have had glass and carbon laser cut in the past with good results other than the charring. A little bath before packaging goes a long way.
 
Trust me.. That will happen. Trying to decide if that will live at work or at home. Probably at home for a while..
 
Had to move a 3D printer into my office, it was in a cooler but heated part of our office and it did not like the cooler temp. Ahh winter..
 
I'm excited to follow this thread. I had access to a nice laser cutter when I was working -- but the ONE downside of retiring was loosing a laser cutter. I used the laser cutter to cut plexiglass for making transmitter trays and depron for models. The "capricorn" below has a honeycomb cut into the depron using the laser cutter. Surprisingly this yielded a stronger model as cracks would not propagate through the holes..... That is ... until I lost my balance in my former tiny hobby room and fell into this model.
 

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