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OK Model (Pilot) Mucho Mint build

Hank GB Z

Very Strong User
Hi every body!

Fresh off getting my Pug V2 flying I decided to start this kit. I bought this kit earlier this year in Singapore at Singapore hobby supply. If you’re ever in Singapore it’s worth a trip down there. All the RC hobby shops in Singapore are in one building, so plan to spend a couple hours there.

On my first visit to Singapore hobby supply I bought a Mint 2 a 25” 3 ch motor glider I built as a 2 Chanel glider. She is pictured below in white. I built a lot of this kit in a hotel room in 2016. I’ve always flown it by throwing it like a chuck glider. The span is a little to short for thermal hunting but she’s fun on a slope in light lift too.

The subject of this thread is for the new bigger “mucho” mint. Japan has mandated the on board tracking beacon like the US but the maximum weight to fly with out it is 100 grams. So Pilot models redesigned the mint to be about 15% bigger and have a built up wing trying to stay under the 100 gram limit. So far I have assembled the fuselage. The aft section is triangle shaped and I glued the sides at the bottom together before gluing the top sheet and I dont think that was right. It made the top very narrow. It came out ok but live and learn. I hope to build one wing panel this weekend. But I need to clean my bench first. I’ll make a mistake looking for a part or a tool if I don’t.

This is my third OK model kit I’ve assembled. All have been very enjoyable. For this kit I like that the air foil isn’t flat bottom, the wood quality is great and includes nice milled poplar for the TE stock. Also to save on kit cost it doesn’t come with push rods or other hardware many modelers would replace anyway. I also like that you don’t have to build on the plans the parts all key together and index off each other, but instructions include detailed drawings to aid assembly and not just a bunch of pictures taken on somebody's phone.

I’m thinking for this kit I will make a small hi start.

Hank
 

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More pics comparing the small mint 2 to the mucho mint fuselage, and a pic of the airfoil on the plans.

Hank
 

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LOL!
"chick glider" - So you throw like a girl? I know, I know I'm the last person that should be acting as a copy editor!

Love the triangle cross section of the boom. Time has shown this to be the best for our models. Even my modern F3F racers (Freestyler) are using this to control the whipping of the boom on "landings". I also like seeing that all the boom sheeting is going the correct direction (axially down the boom). I'm liking the design of these small simple gliders!

BTW; how much does the Mint 2 weigh?

Love the OpenTX manual near by.
 
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Ok, I got some more building done. I got the right wing panel about half framed. This is an interesting build. So far all the part fits have been excellent. I had thought the ribs where the joints are got tilted but it looks like the get the angle sanded in before final assembly. Which is fine by me I like that technique. Though I might make some angled sanding block to ease the process.
I’m using titebond 1 glue in a syringe. I made shims to hold the lower sheeting up in place while the glue dries. Next step is to sand the leading edge stock down then put the top sheeting on. Hopefully I get that done tomorrow.

@Konrad
You asked how much the mint 2 weighs its 105 grams. That’s with several repairs and added carbon strips to the tail and nose weight to re- trim.

Hank
 

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Hey Konrad,

It has a spar. It is the notched type common on modern kits. While the sheeting will do most of the work the spar will do quite a bit too. I measured the other spar and there is 3 mm height of continuous material across the inner panel. I’m attaching some pictures of the spars and the plans to ilistrate it a bit better.

Hank
 

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OK,
To my mind that is more of a shear web than a spar. Yes, the un-notch part is a spar.

In your photo it looked like a classic Hal-deBolt / Graupner multi piece shear web keeping the skins apart. (The notched parts didn't flow with the curved spar.)
 
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Ok I could see that. I did have to use a pin to hold the spar in place with the curve.

Got a reference model that uses the stressed skin system you mention? I love studying old designs to learn things.

Hank
 
The Graupner Race Rat, Chip, UHu and just about any of their 80's and 90's built up kits. Next time I'm in the attic I'll look for these and try to take some detailed photos.
 
I got the left panel framed up to the same stage as the right panel. I didn’t want to sand the LE of the wing so I just started on the next one. Tomorrow I hope to finish framing both wing panels. Also building the left panel while the right panel was still on the board made a good reminder to build a left panel and not 2 right panels. Would have been very easy to do here since it’s not built over plans.
I also need to break out the google translate and see if it mentions when to glue on the TE.

Hank
 

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Interesting. Yeah I’d say these wings are similar to those. I took today off work hoping to finish sheeting the wings today but life got in the way. I ended up fixing an old wanderer to use as a club trainer.

Hank
 
In my family, yes. Fixing planes goes on the to do list.

We flew that wanderer. Flies well. My uncle built it like 25 years ago and never flew it. I found it after he passed and I put better servos in it and that was it. The mono-kote on the wings is cracking pretty bad. Might need a re-cover soon.

More on the Mucho Mint tomorrow.

Hank
 
Ok I got the top sheeting on the left wing panel today. I haven’t taken it off the board yet but it’s looking good. I did a couple of trials trying to figure a good way to hold the sheeting down. I ended up just using lots of pins. I was afraid if I took the wing off the board and used clamps it would move and cause a warp. Hope to do the right panel tonight.

Hank
 

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Am I seeing this correctly? One builds the wing panel flat. Then you cut through the outer polyhedral break with a razor saw. Sand the angle and butt glue the joint along the thick rib.

There are no fibers (wood of glass) going across the outer polyhedral joint? I'm sure that at this weight that will work well. It just rubs me the wrong way. As you know I like to see some kind of fiber going across joints, but it's often not practical.
 
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Yes you are correct. The outter joint is just like you describe. The center joint has a dihedral brace made of ply wood. I checked the fit of the brace before putting the top sheeting on. I plan on adding a small band of .5oz glass cloth around the D tube of the outter panels. It rubs me a bit too that there is no wood or fibers across the joint, but with the angle of the spar it’s not practical to add an outter brace. How ever adding a small amount of glass cloth is pretty practical.

I pulled the left panel off the bench and started sanding the LE. I like how it’s coming along. I also glued on the TE. The TE is made from poplar I think. It has a very nice thin edge and is very firm. I think it’ll work really well.

Hank
 

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Finally back in town. I made some time to work on this model. Before I left I made some angled sanding blocks on my jointer. This is to help sand the polyhedral joints. So far it’s working well. I got the left wing panel joints sanded and the outter joint glued together. Tonight I put the top sheeting on the right wing panel and I hope tomorrow to sand it up and glue up the outter joint.

To make the angled sanding blocks I just used the gauge the kit came with to set the fence. Then I ran some scrap oak pieces I had laying around. Then I glued on the sand paper. I made 2 blocks for the 2 different degrees and I put the sand paper on both sides so I can sand with angle facing either out or in. I made some reference lines on my building boards to help keep everything square

Hank
 

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And Right wing panel sanded and joint glued together. Hope to assemble the wing tomorrow.

Hank
 

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I'm sure it is just the camera but the lift on the tips look different between the Oct 10 (4398) and Oct 12 (4408) photos.
 
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