GardenGate
User
@Wayne and/or @RafaelAvila - if you have any of the kits left, I would be interested - I have an X10S to work from. Alternatively, I would be willing to buy the STL files to do the 3D printed parts myself.
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New Single Stick Project
- Thread starter Wayne
- Start date
Pretty sure we still have some sets here. Send us an email. contact@alofthobbies.com
Who knows, maybe we will put these back into production as a limited support item.
Who knows, maybe we will put these back into production as a limited support item.
Still have 4 basic kits available
Just put it together today
Including 3d printed parts
Wood parts
Screws for assembly
Just put it together today
Including 3d printed parts
Wood parts
Screws for assembly
dean mcinnis
New User
I've been flying single stick for 45+ years and to add to the fun, I'm left-handed and I fly helicopters with manual controls for both throttle and collective (they are not electronically mixed like almost everyone else). This means I have to have 2 pots about a finger width apart on the top-left side of the box (similar to Konrad's photo just on the left side). I've had a few TX's built over the years and have been lately putting throttle and collective pots on both sides of my TX with a toggle switch on the top so I can let other right-handed people use my TX to fly my craft if they like. I typically try and put the stick in the middle of the box if possible for more hand rest room and keep most of the switches on the top of the box just to get them out of the way.
I just ordered one of your kits (waiting for it to be shipped
). I'll send some photos of the final version! me
I just ordered one of your kits (waiting for it to be shipped
). I'll send some photos of the final version! me
alex_pozgaj
Active User
Wow, this TX looks gorgeous! 
Please don't hesitate to reach me out if you have any questions.I've been flying single stick for 45+ years and to add to the fun, I'm left-handed and I fly helicopters with manual controls for both throttle and collective (they are not electronically mixed like almost everyone else). This means I have to have 2 pots about a finger width apart on the top-left side of the box (similar to Konrad's photo just on the left side). I've had a few TX's built over the years and have been lately putting throttle and collective pots on both sides of my TX with a toggle switch on the top so I can let other right-handed people use my TX to fly my craft if they like. I typically try and put the stick in the middle of the box if possible for more hand rest room and keep most of the switches on the top of the box just to get them out of the way.
I just ordered one of your kits (waiting for it to be shipped
Only 3 more kits available guys
GardenGate
User
Looking forward to getting one!
Haoyang Wang
Very Strong User
This is a really, really nice kit.
Almost all of X10S's controls, buttons, trim tabs, the vibrator, and the rubber cover for the usb port find their way to this 3D-printed box. All but the left stick and 2 of the 4 switches on the left side, replaced with the 3rd-axis stick with a button on its head, and the throttle slider.
I have some problems:
1. The wire to the external antenna is just too short to reach the top of the box. Where can I get that antenna connector, with a slightly longer wire to reach the top of the box?
2. While I am not using an external module with this radio, the 5 pins to the external module are too long for the back board to close. I will have to cut a hole in the back board to let the pins poke through.
3. I found the battery holder broken in the bag. I glued it back to get the build going, but I don't know how well it will hold up. I'd like to have a new battery holder if possible.
4. What's the tab with 2 holes on the battery holder for?
5. I ran out screws in the bag. The screws are only enough for the box itself, but the throttle slider, the battery holder, and the gimbal all need screws, too.
I still need to solder on the wires to the new controls...
Almost all of X10S's controls, buttons, trim tabs, the vibrator, and the rubber cover for the usb port find their way to this 3D-printed box. All but the left stick and 2 of the 4 switches on the left side, replaced with the 3rd-axis stick with a button on its head, and the throttle slider.
I have some problems:
1. The wire to the external antenna is just too short to reach the top of the box. Where can I get that antenna connector, with a slightly longer wire to reach the top of the box?
2. While I am not using an external module with this radio, the 5 pins to the external module are too long for the back board to close. I will have to cut a hole in the back board to let the pins poke through.
3. I found the battery holder broken in the bag. I glued it back to get the build going, but I don't know how well it will hold up. I'd like to have a new battery holder if possible.
4. What's the tab with 2 holes on the battery holder for?
5. I ran out screws in the bag. The screws are only enough for the box itself, but the throttle slider, the battery holder, and the gimbal all need screws, too.
I still need to solder on the wires to the new controls...
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I might be able to order up some of the antenna mounts from FrSky. I do not recall this being an issue, but it has been a long time.
We can get you a new battery mount. @RafaelAvila
Don't recall the issue with the module pins.. Were we cutting them?
As I recall you can put the extra pots if you do not plan to use them onto the battery mount. This just keeps them from bouncing around.
Sorry it has been a while since we messed with this project..
We can get you a new battery mount. @RafaelAvila
Don't recall the issue with the module pins.. Were we cutting them?
As I recall you can put the extra pots if you do not plan to use them onto the battery mount. This just keeps them from bouncing around.
Sorry it has been a while since we messed with this project..
we have this cable it will work for you but its new, we didn't have this problem before
FrSky RF Coax Assembly - 200mm
The RF Coax Assembly can be used when you need a longer lead out to your antenna from your module. Handy for those BIG case transmitters.
alofthobbies.com
ill include the battery holder in you order for the RF cable.
also the two holes in the battery holder is for 2 switch/pods not been used in the single stick case, you don't wanna it dancing inside the radio right?
rafael here im using chris account hahaha
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GardenGate
User
Hi Rafeal - just got my kit last night - thanks for the quick shipping, and really looking forward to putting this together!
A few questions to start as I look at the contents and the online instruction manual:
Bill
A few questions to start as I look at the contents and the online instruction manual:
- there was a PostIt note in my plastic bag with "NO SENSOR" written on it - what does that mean?
- are the laser cut plywood plates purely aesthetic or are they necessary or useful from a structural point of view? I'm trying to decide how I want to the radio to look - whether to retain the wood finish or try to wrap the radio with vinyl (e.g. faux carbon fiber). If I wrap the radio, I'm trying to figure out whether I need the plywood (and/or could remove the wrap and screw the wood facing on at a later date) I can see that perhaps without the plywood, the wrap might show through the surface imperfections of the 3D printed parts - I'll have to see how that goes.
- related to the plywood plates - I noted the instructions say that gluing the wood faces to the 3D printed parts is optional - I see that the sides, top, bottom and back would be held in place with the screws, but there aren't screws for the front, so that needs to be glued, no?
- is there a specific reason two switches are left internal? I haven't looked closely enough at the final physical layout, but would there be room either on the top or front of the case to drill a couple more holes to have external access to all the switches?
- any hints or things to watch out for that folks might mention as I disassemble my donor X10S Express?
Bill
R: don't worry about it, its just my notes for the bags, you need to use your throttle sensor
R: yes you need to use the wood because everything is based in the wood thickness,
R: yes sorry the manual is a little bit wrong, you can use contact glue in all the wood panels that is what i recommend.
R: just no were to put it and keep it aesthetic pretty, so this two is left behind saved inside the radio, you can use it if you wanna just find the place you wanna it and drill the hole.
R: just ready the instructions that should me pretty straight forward with the build process, if anything comes up, don't hesitate to message me here.
Rafael Here again hahaha
Haoyang Wang
Very Strong User
Are there enough pins on the circuit board for all the existing switches plus the new button on the stick head?
Finally some good posts from Chris. LOL
As I recall on that radio there are no open switch inputs left, so an existing switch would need to be utilized for the stick end switch.
Typically these radios have way more switches than anyone will actually use. If you are going to add additional switches to the body, pay close attention to space inside the radio, and how you hold the radio. Some spaces just will not allow for the switch body as other parts of the radio are already there, or they are not good locations for your hands. We tried to put everything in logical places. In some spots with VERY little clearance as I recall.
Rafael might kill me for this, but I wonder about converting the new X14 radio to a single stick. The smaller boards in that radio should give us more freedom to place things where we would like them, and the lower price point and being a current in production radio is a win-win. (Rafael is not excited about the amount of CAD and testing these take.)
As I recall on that radio there are no open switch inputs left, so an existing switch would need to be utilized for the stick end switch.
Typically these radios have way more switches than anyone will actually use. If you are going to add additional switches to the body, pay close attention to space inside the radio, and how you hold the radio. Some spaces just will not allow for the switch body as other parts of the radio are already there, or they are not good locations for your hands. We tried to put everything in logical places. In some spots with VERY little clearance as I recall.
Rafael might kill me for this, but I wonder about converting the new X14 radio to a single stick. The smaller boards in that radio should give us more freedom to place things where we would like them, and the lower price point and being a current in production radio is a win-win. (Rafael is not excited about the amount of CAD and testing these take.)
Haoyang Wang
Very Strong User
So I can connect the 3rd axis stick to one of the ports for the left gimbals, but for the new throttle slider have to take over from one of the analog sliders or knobs?
(I just placed the order for the RF cable. Thank you!)
that's exactly what you need to do
,take a part the throttle gimbal remove the sensor and use that sensor in the new side panel,
and use the Original throttle sensor from the gimbal to the side panel to throttle slider, after all done, you need to calibrate the sticks as usual to grab the new start and and point to the throttle.
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Haoyang Wang
Very Strong User
Just glue the sensor to the motor slider mount, like this?
That's neat!
That's neat!
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you almost there the sensor should be light sanded in the sides to fit in the botton slot with wires up and you can glue it in place with e6000
E6000 Jewelry and Bead Glue 1oz
E6000 is a super tough, flexible and waterproof adhesive that bonds just about anything such as wood, metal, fiberglass, many plastics and much more! Includes precision applicator tips for mess free application. A lot of R/C glider pilots use it for making "Goop Hinges" for control surfaces and...
alofthobbies.com
or foam cure
