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Since you’re changing everything else just install a different control horn. Cut the forks off and screw something on to the base of the original horn. Won’t damage the foam and you’ll get the travel you’re looking for.
While I'm used to near 90 degree flaps in my F5b gliders, I find the limited travel on this big foamy completely adequate. You'll see when you fly it. Of course ailerons need to go up too but the somewhat limited flap travel is fine with the crow brake deployed. I would NOT go to the trouble of trying to get more flap travel on this glider but like you, when I first saw the travel..... I was disappointed.
Yep, I’m a 90 degree flapper in that I like to dive for the cliff lip and throw out the flaps to do a helicopter landing. I think I need flaps as high winds are the norm at my coastal and inland flying sites. From memory, my Cularis , Heron and even Calypso all get the flaps past 70 degree. And I get 25 degrees reflex (up aileron). Yes my Chinese F3F racers all get 90 degree flaps. And my Freestyler 5 gets a bit more than 80 degrees.
I was just shocked that the Lentus will be lucky to even see 60 degrees of flap (hinge bind) and still can’t make it back to profile with the provided hood clearance (servo arm).
I’m not going to cut more clearance in the hinge until after I flight test. But I’d like at least the full amount 60 degrees and some workable up flap. The 18mm arm gives me all that.
Since you’re changing everything else just install a different control horn. Cut the forks off and screw something on to the base of the original horn. Won’t damage the foam and you’ll get the travel you’re looking for.
That’s a possibility. But I have this 3D printer that I haven’t used. I should be able to make the protection hoods. If not Wayne says his crew (Rafael) might be able to get the hood into a printable file that I might be able to use.
My Lentus sees flat field thermal flying only and our runway was 2,000' long.. So yeah, 90 degree flaps aren't at all needed. I can still spot land the Lentus though with the available crow brake it's enough to not worry about. No cliff diving here. LOL
I've added some glass fibers across the bulkhead to fuselage side part line for durability. I've shown that the 65 amp ESC and 4 cell 2300 battery fit. What surprised me a bit was just how small that 12 x 10 prop looks on the nose of the Lentus. I can't fathom what an 8 x 6 (called out by Multiplex with their power system) would look like
Yes.. Badass 2826/1030 KV.. Best prop for it so far is a 13x6.5.. .IIRC, I was getting close to 900 watts on the meter so I try and limit my climbs to 15 sec. or less. It does climb vertical if I'm so inclined. I'm convinced these motors are better than the run of the mill outrunner
I’m running a 2826 860kv motor on 4 cells. Yikes, 900 watts how are the blades holding up. One of the reasons I’m using a small diameter high pitch prop is to extend the RPM limit. I’m trying to avoid the FMS Fox syndrome AKA thrown blades. While my motor is a lower KV than yours I am using 33% more voltage.
I can tell you that going over the limit by 15% will/has resulted in blade failures. It really does bother me that less reputable brands don't give a safe RPM limit as a function of diameter.
A 12” is allowed to spin faster than a 13” and still be safe.
I'm now running LiHV and am at a little over 1,000 watts static. Still with aeronaut 13x6.5 and no failures (knock on wood) The little badass motor really puts out compared to similar KV turnigy motors