Multiplex Heron - Now a Build Thread

[Konrad]

I think Aeronaut sells a 55mm Cularis spinner made for these ships. But by the time you add all the needed parts it is close to 20% to 25% the cost of the model. If staying around 600watts the plastic one is just fine.

As these are the first things to hit the ground, it isn't where I'd like to gold plate my aircraft!

 

[jseyfert3]

I think Aeronaut sells a 55mm Cularis spinner made for these ships. But by the time you add all the needed parts it is close to 20% to 25% the cost of the model. If staying around 600watts the plastic one is just fine.

As these are the first things to hit the ground, it isn't where I'd like to gold plate my aircraft!

I was thinking that because it was plastic if I hit it it would break easily. But I suppose aluminum just tends to bend too.

And yeah, may be pricey compared to the airframe itself, but given I'm spending $146 on servos, a $70 ESC, $45 motor, $45 Rx, a $40 spinner isn't as much compared to the total price of the completed airplane.

 

[Konrad]

Actually the plastic spinner is more durable than the aluminum one when it comes to "landing damage". The benefit to the aluminum yoke is that it allows for higher RPMs (blade load, centrifugal force).

I thought the price with the spinner, yoke and collet was higher than $40.

 

[jseyfert3]

I just had done a quick search, and found the following Aeronaut spinners. They aren't actually aluminum spinners, but aluminum back plates and yokes with a plastic spinner. $28 for the spinner and collet and $12 for the yoke.

Aeronaut White Turbo Spinners for Folding Propellers

Anything and Everything for electric flight, your electric superstore, Helicopter store

www.espritmodel.com

I suppose since I'm still getting familiar with the terminology, I may have confused a few things. An aluminum spinner itself was not so much what I was thinking was stronger for crashes, but an aluminum yolk. You are saying that the stock plastic yolk holds up better than aluminum in "hard landings"?

The motor I chose has a max power of 616 W per HobbyKing's website, but I doubt it can do that continuously. Also I think that's on 4S and I'm going to run 3S. So I shouldn't have to worry about the plastic prop mounts according to you. It just seemed like not a very strong way to mount a spinning prop is all, at first glance.

 

[Konrad]

...

I suppose since I'm still getting familiar with the terminology, I may have confused a few things. An aluminum spinner itself was not so much what I was thinking was stronger for crashes, but an aluminum yolk. You are saying that the stock plastic yolk holds up better than aluminum in "hard landings"?

Yes. I like binary system (AKA good or bad). Aluminum yokes and back plates bend making it difficult to troubleshoot. Plastic with short fibers in it, distort a lot less before they fracture. This makes it easier to see if the assembly is serviceable or failed.

I have yet to see these Multiplex spinners fail at the yoke due to centrifugal loads. But then I keep the power around 600 watts. I think the most I've driven through one is 660 watts measured. (I've had them crack, but this was landing damage as a result of a blade getting caught while the fuselage spun on the ground or blade strikes).

Yes, the point of ultimate yield is higher with the aluminum yoke. That is why they are recommended for applications where one is using higher power.

FYI: With electrical components (motors) the maximum power rating is rather a worthless figure, without a duty cycle or time reference. I can often run double, triple or more power through a motor for 10 seconds than I can for 60 second.

 

[tic]

I am still using the original plastic spinner/yoke with my heron which is now in it's 5th year and well over 1,000 flights w/o any issues. I also use the turnigy 3542/1000KV motor on 3s 2200 withe aeronaut 12x6 cam carbon blades. It's a great combo IMO, far more fun than the RTF components. I also have a Lentus which appears to have the exact same spinner/yoke combo as the Heron. Since I run significantly more watts in the Lentus, I replaced the spinner/yoke with aeronaut 55mm. The stock yoke would probably be o.k at 700 watts or more but I didn't want to chance it. I replaced my wing servos with HS82 MG's but the tail still uses the original HS55's. I bought the RTF Heron and quickly learned that I should have bought the kit after replacing servos, motor etc at significant cost. I did not make the same mistake with the Lentus. I enjoy both models for different reasons. The Heron is a great all arounder, I think you'll enjoy it. You might want to consider running a thin bead of silicone on the foam hinges if your plan to put 1,000 flights on it

 

[jseyfert3]

I've got a pile of parts, so construction will begin soon. Would have been started already, but things were busy. I'll probably putter a bit this weekend, but I've got some other plans too, plus the winds will be calm all weekend, so I'll probably be flying my other planes a bit.

Also, I bought this kit from a guy at the club who was starting it, and started with the cockpit. Here's a hand carved pilot and hand painted cockpit.

 

[Flying Dutchman]

Cool... I like the dog-pit.

 

[tic]

Wow, the dog pilot is awesome... You've got some excellent components there, it should be a well set up heron, beyond what most would do and you'll be rewarded for it with a nice flying e-glider

 

[jseyfert3]

You might want to consider running a thin bead of silicone on the foam hinges if your plan to put 1,000 flights on it

How do you do this? Idk about a thousand flights. I’m not sure I’ve ever put 100 flights on an airplane. Then again I’m just getting back in the hobby. So I suppose it may happen eventually given my landings go okay…

Also here’s the FrSKY Neuron ESC, compared to one of the unbranded ESCs I had purchased for my quad in like 2012. I believe they were 30 A ESCs. The Neuron I got is 60 A. Slightly wider given the molded aluminum heat sinks. But fairly lightweight still. Here’s hoping it works as good as it’s advertised to do.

 

[tic]

I just use a toothpick to get into the gap between wing and control surface with the silicone and spread it out along the entire hinge area. When I first heard of this, I thought it was a ridiculous idea. I thought the silicone would glue the control surfaces against the wing but it doesn't do that. It just gives you a flexible but more secure bond than just the foam hinge

 

[stevebbbb]

JS,

Love your detailed cockpit. You’re going to have a blast with the Heron. A buddy and myself fly them pretty much every day and both of us have crashed or lost them, usually from climbing out of sight, and each time have immediately replaced them. There is only one mod on the Heron that is absolutely necessar, though all of yours sound like good stuff!

The plastic fitting at the wing attach cuts the servo wires where the wing slides in. make sure to relieve this (a little half moon notch) on each wing just above each servo wire.

enjoy! SteveB

 

[tic]

My Heron was involved in a midair today with a thunder tiger explorer pro.. The explorer was confetti and the majority of it is still 30' up in a pine tree. My Heron suffered two fairly bad leading edge dents (golf ball sized) and the canopy blew off but was found. I'm quite impressed that I got the better of the collision as that explorer is a pretty stout bird. I kept flying but the explorer fluttered down very ungracefully landing in the tall pine tree.

 

[Konrad]

Stout is that code for heavy? Thats’s a “D” tube balsa 2 meter glider?

I assume the Heron’s wings stayed attached.

Are the dents smooth enough that steam will bring them out? Or will the repair require using filler blocks?

 

[tic]

Dents too large for steam to pull them out. I tried that 1st. My wings did stay attached, I flew away from the mid air, the other guy wasn't so lucky. Have filled the dents with microfill, will sand and apply thin CA when dry. The thunder tiger explorer pro is a 1.5 meter foam warmliner. I noticed today when making repairs to my Heron that both prop blades are scratched. I sliced and diced the guy with my prop.

 

[jseyfert3]

Started the build today. Decided to use foam -tac for the build. First time using it but it was recommended by the guy I bought the plane from, other club members, and various forum members. A bit messy but at least no gluing your fingers together.

Decided to just use the stock fuselage stiffener hex tube. The extensions I got have the silly tab, which means the female housing can’t fit though the tube. I’ll probably just cut them off and solder the servo wires to the extensions. I also may want longer extensions, the ones I got, the specified size, are just a few inches longer than the tube. This would put the receiver way in the back of the fuselage, which isn’t bad, except I’d never be able to reach it for service there unless the wires were longer so I could grab the receiver and pull it forward to the canopy area without disconnecting the tail servos until then.

Currently I’ve got all the fuselage stiffeners glued in, the canopy latches, and the motor mount. And one of the wing root caps.

I need to figure out exactly how I want to do the servo connections before I glue the fuselage together. I finally realized how the stock connections go. There are brackets that servo extensions are glued too. The wing servo cables hang out and you plug them into these glued servo extensions in the fuselage. Not a bad way of doing it, but the MPX 6-pin connections should be a bit easier.

The motor had heat shrink were the wires came out of the body of the motor. This was too stiff for the wires to bend sufficiently to fit into the motor mount. I had to trim back the heat shrink so the wires could bend tighter. Test fit and it fits now.

Also did a test fit on my bed, just to get an idea of how it will look when finished. And to start thinking of paint schemes. Thinking blue decorative stripes on the top/fuselage, and fat black stripes on the bottom for contrast when looking up at it from below.

You can tell just from looking at it, that this plane is made to soar! Unlike some of the commonly available foam “sailplanes” out there. I love the T-tail.

I have almost zero experience building planes, but almost everything about this kit seems like high quality and well thought out.

Anyway, I’m getting excited to get this plane flying here shortly!

 

[jseyfert3]

The plastic fitting at the wing attach cuts the servo wires where the wing slides in. make sure to relieve this (a little half moon notch) on each wing just above each servo wire.

Based on some suggestions here, my plan was to use these green 6 pin connectors for the wing servos. One connector for each wing. Not entirely sure how I’ll set them up yet. Was thinking probably just a flying lead?

 

[gp49]

Here is what I do. Crimp the female contacts to the wires, then solder the contacts onto the MPX connector. Don't forget to put some shrink tubing on!

I have made some plug covers molds in aluminum to finish of the work, but you can print them on a 3-d printer as well (https://www.printables.com/model/125792-mpx-plug-form-for-hot-glue)

 

[gp49]

You can also go this way if you can locate some of these pcb's. (I think @Wayne ) had some in stock before (?)) Bottom line there is many ways to skin a cat.

 

[jseyfert3]

I will probably just solder the wires directly to the MPX connector. It's a bit tight but nothing I haven't done before. I'll definitely use heat shrink.

I have made some plug covers molds in aluminum to finish of the work, but you can print them on a 3-d printer as well (https://www.printables.com/model/125792-mpx-plug-form-for-hot-glue)

Ah, so you could pot it? Duct tape works too for potting, but it's not always as clean.

Is that potting strong enough so you can grab it to plug and unplug the connector by grabbing it?