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Mini Q
- Thread starter Glenn Beer
- Start date
Windy Miller
New User
Thanks Konrad - here’s the mount - I’ve moved away from a folding prop as it didn’t have the power and also the esc wasn’t powerful enough to break so it was spinning and slowing me down further (see previous posts). So this setup is fast, cg is right and thinking about it I was on power all the way through as I was trimming/testing the battery weight (tried a few). So maybe if I take it easy and power on / off it’ll improve anyway. There’s no nose cone so plenty of room Ron air intake - I think I’ll try some holes in the canopy without making a mess of the look as it is a good looking model before I start hacking away at it!
I remember reading that exit holes had to be large in comparison with intake... but I don’t want to take too much out.... that’s why I was looking to see what others had done first.
I remember reading that exit holes had to be large in comparison with intake... but I don’t want to take too much out.... that’s why I was looking to see what others had done first.
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Windy Miller
New User
Windy Miller
New User
I can always add a spinner when I get it all setup correctly. Are you able to use a folding prop and get the esc to brake and get some speed out of it? ?? If so u wonder what I was doing wrong...
Konrad
Very Strong User
Yes, I've been able to get my ESC to brake. That is the purpose of a the ESC brake is to allow the folding prop to fold.
What you ask is a subjective thing. But speed is a function of RPM x Pitch. Have you tried a 7X6 Aeronaut Cam Carbon and a 5° twisted hub?
www.espritmodel.com
Be aware of the safe RPM speed imposed on the prop.
What you ask is a subjective thing. But speed is a function of RPM x Pitch. Have you tried a 7X6 Aeronaut Cam Carbon and a 5° twisted hub?
Aeronaut Yoke for Turbo and Black 2-Blade Spinners Twisted (+2.5/+5 Degree)
Anything and Everything for electric flight, your electric superstore, Helicopter store
Be aware of the safe RPM speed imposed on the prop.
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Windy Miller
New User
Thanks Konrad, I did try that prop but not the twisted hub - my original problem was not being able to get the ESC to brake, when asking at the shop / online I found a lot of people with the same problem but not many solutions - the brake was enabled and set up correctly but not strong enough to stop the momentum of the prop (so it was explained to me) - what ESC have you got working?
Konrad
Very Strong User
All, other than the Power Up. I like the Castle Creation brand of ESC for my valued models. The Hobby Wing Platinum ESC work well.
Most ESC have a programing card to help with setting up the features in the ESC.
The small prop on this model shouldn't be a problem for a brake. On some of my FAI F5B ships the 20+ inch prop can be demanding on the brake.
Most ESC have a programing card to help with setting up the features in the ESC.
The small prop on this model shouldn't be a problem for a brake. On some of my FAI F5B ships the 20+ inch prop can be demanding on the brake.
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jamesn1960
New User
I think flutter here was used in place of buffeting (AKA pre stall buffeting). Not aeroelastic fluttering (surface/structural oscillations)
Aeroelasticity - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
That's correct Konrad, it was a result of flying on the edge of stall. I've had many more flights since then and in a wide range of conditions (8 mph to 20 mph) so I've had time to fine tune it to me liking. My Q is now flying so well I just had to lash out and purchase another, one with the new style bulkhead which I intend to keep for a spare or may even eventually build a power version.
Mine weighs in at 360 grams with CG 20mm, measured like the drawing you provided a while back (refer image). I find it fly's best with 2.5mm of reflex, though I do have my reflex setup on my LD dial. This enables me to do fine reflex adjustments in flight depending on conditions. I've found around 3mm of reflex slows it up in light conditions but it also puts the Q on the edge of stalling and therefore higher chances of causing buffeting, especially when exiting turns.
I've X08H-Plus servos and LIFE-700 6.6V to power them, battery is held in place with stiff foam so I'm able to make fine adjustments with CG if required (refer image). Control surfaces (high rates) Ail +10mm -10mm, Ele +4mm -4mm. (low rates Ail +8-8, Ele +3-3) I also have approx 30% reverse differential programmed in when using high rates so my Q's barrel rolls are a very clean axial.
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J
jcpl
Guest
Hello guys. I'm planning to Run a Hacker A20-6XL with a 4.4:1 reduction on a 13x11 CAM on 4S 1600mAh. Please your thoughts about this setup. Thank you
J
jcpl
Guest
Thank you Konrad, I thought so, 5 inches from the back of spinner to the wing LE?
Nigel
Moderator
I believe Konrad was implying that your suggested setup is incompatible. The Mini Q has very limited space to fit electronics, especially when toying with CG. I would suggest a smaller outrunner running directly to the prop. I pushed it a little and ran a larger in-runner, and it was a stretch to get a good fit with everything, especially with CG.
J
jcpl
Guest
Thank you Nigel.
Has anyone had good experience as to recommend a set for folding props? 3S or 4S Im located in South America so need to make sure I order the proper stuff at once.
Thank you all.
Has anyone had good experience as to recommend a set for folding props? 3S or 4S Im located in South America so need to make sure I order the proper stuff at once.
Thank you all.
Konrad
Very Strong User
What are you trying to do with the mini Q?
For folders think about this.
For motors, most 28mm diameter outrunners with fit. But I prefer inrunners, like the HET Typhoon. https://alofthobbies.com/power/motors/typhoon.html
Have you used the E-Calc emulation program to select your power set up.
www.ecalc.ch
As to batteries read this thread to see what fits and maintains the needed balance.
All the best,
Konrad
P.S.
You are likely to foul blades that are longer than 90mm. You will want a 42+mm prop hub and a 32mm to 33mm spinner.
For folders think about this.
For motors, most 28mm diameter outrunners with fit. But I prefer inrunners, like the HET Typhoon. https://alofthobbies.com/power/motors/typhoon.html
Have you used the E-Calc emulation program to select your power set up.
eCalc - reliable electric drive simulations
get your electric rc drive right ✓ fast & reliable simulation - no more guessing ✓ most comprehensive motor database ☆ prevents mispurchase since 2004
As to batteries read this thread to see what fits and maintains the needed balance.
All the best,
Konrad
P.S.
You are likely to foul blades that are longer than 90mm. You will want a 42+mm prop hub and a 32mm to 33mm spinner.
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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this forum. This is the first model I've built that didn't fly perfectly on maiden which left me scratching my head. I set mine up after reading these posts to CG22m (balanced mine on two very sharp pencils using some masking tape on the wings with a pin hole in) then set the throws to the recommended elevator 4mm and aileron 10mm with 3mm and 8mm for low rates.
After a GOOD throw into about 15mph wind it flew great!
One thing I noticed was that the pitch control wasn't great. It would just run out of steam and could hardly make a loop. Obviously more elevator deflection is a problem on these wings if you go to far. Can I go more then 4mm? Or is it just a case of flying in a stronger blow? Mine is quite heavy at 382g.
Cheers everyone, all the best
Mark
After a GOOD throw into about 15mph wind it flew great!
One thing I noticed was that the pitch control wasn't great. It would just run out of steam and could hardly make a loop. Obviously more elevator deflection is a problem on these wings if you go to far. Can I go more then 4mm? Or is it just a case of flying in a stronger blow? Mine is quite heavy at 382g.
Cheers everyone, all the best
Mark
Konrad
Very Strong User
The mini Q is NOT a light lift ship. As you indicate you actually think it needs more energy to loop. Not knowing your hill, can you dive for a longer period of time to build up speed. The mini Q is aerodynamically clean enough that it will carry through most loops, particularly if it is heavy.
Do you have much experience with small fast slope ships?
You might just need to gain more speed/energy, ether from a dive or from more lift.
Yes, you can increase the elevator throw 0.25 mm at a time. But what you discribe sounds like you are just running out of energy before reaching the top of the loop. More elevator usually will not help this. You will need to learn the speed range that the mini Q will fly best, and try to fly inside those constraints.
Any ideas as to why you came out about 50 grams heavier than most?
(Rereading this thread I see some guys at over 400g AUW)
All the best,
Konrad
Do you have much experience with small fast slope ships?
You might just need to gain more speed/energy, ether from a dive or from more lift.
Yes, you can increase the elevator throw 0.25 mm at a time. But what you discribe sounds like you are just running out of energy before reaching the top of the loop. More elevator usually will not help this. You will need to learn the speed range that the mini Q will fly best, and try to fly inside those constraints.
Any ideas as to why you came out about 50 grams heavier than most?
(Rereading this thread I see some guys at over 400g AUW)
All the best,
Konrad
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Diceman
Moderator
Amazingly though it does fly in lighter lift if you are at the right slope. I flew mine at Sunset State beach (more of a bluff style slope) in 8mph, but I was working the hill to stay up. Anything above that at Sunset it would fly, but of course the more wind, the better it will fly. LOL.
With a plank style plane like this one, those little millimeters really matter, and it is easy to be off a bit depending on where you measure from. For example an error of just 3mm (1/8") can make this plane almost impossible to get into the air. But get the CG right, and the elevator throw right, and she is a VERY rewarding little plane.
This is true for all planks. (A plank is a special kind of flying wing where the leading edge has very little sweep.)
When you get that CG just right, very little elevator is needed, but if you are a little nose heavy, it will need twice the elevator throw. If you are a little tail heavy, you will know it right AWAY as it will require constant correction and you will be fighting just to get it back on the ground at a moderate speed.
I like to tape a small coin onto the outside of the plane and move it a little bit until I find the sweet spot.
A nose heavy plane while easier to fly gives up a lot of performance. So it is well worth the tuning with the coin to find the magical spot. Then mark it and make sure nothing can move and alter that CG.
Hope this helps.
This is true for all planks. (A plank is a special kind of flying wing where the leading edge has very little sweep.)
When you get that CG just right, very little elevator is needed, but if you are a little nose heavy, it will need twice the elevator throw. If you are a little tail heavy, you will know it right AWAY as it will require constant correction and you will be fighting just to get it back on the ground at a moderate speed.
I like to tape a small coin onto the outside of the plane and move it a little bit until I find the sweet spot.
A nose heavy plane while easier to fly gives up a lot of performance. So it is well worth the tuning with the coin to find the magical spot. Then mark it and make sure nothing can move and alter that CG.
Hope this helps.
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