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Mini Q

Ok, I can see where one might think I'm nit picking if one thinks the last points is about the canopy hold down. Really my concern is that the new web's added strength is lost to make clearance for the canopy hold down pins.

The material used to make the whole web might best be used to make a much narrower 20mm wide 6 times thicker web arch centered over the bulkhead. This would mean a change to the bulkhead cut file to allow for the thicker web.
 
Let see if I can rebuilt the thoughts I had for post #299.

Now if I was to design this I would have had a carry through spar (structure) from the very beginning. Time and time again you and I have seen where the wings will crush the fuselage. In the early production runs we had seen where the bulkhead had popped just moving around the model in our hands. You asked for some glass structure over the bulkhead to encapsulate the bulkhead. The second run had a very thin web added (left uncut). This web was so thin that it was easy for it to flex (straighten) again allowing the bulkhead to pop. I think you then asked that the area where the canopy cut out would normally occur be left intact and have the same weight as the rest of the fuselage. This is what we have now. I have said this is a move in the right direction. As when I now flex the wing the wings actually flex rather than the fuselage distorting popping the bulkhead.

It appears that TJIRC is very receptive to the customers request. This is good, but the end product needs to be looked at as a whole. How does the change effect the whole? I don’t think TJIRC did this. The structure had a flaw they did make an attempt to correct the flaw at your request.(y)

Now what should have been done, is that the TJIRC should have looked to see if the new structure that the customer (you) requested had any effect on existing structure. It did, I’m showing where the extended web is keeping the canopy from seating properly as the web interferes with the canopy hold down pins. The hold down pins are mounted to the canopy far enough away from the leading and trailing edge to allow the pins to flex over the lip of the canopy opening.

This need for pin flex is why the pins are so long. One can reduce the need for so much flex by putting the pins on a 0.25 mm to 0.50mm offset (shim) when glueing them to the canopy. This would allow the pins to be mounted closer to the canopy lip. Resulting in less of the fuselage web needing to be removed for the pin clearance.

Like I said I'd try to make a rigid carry through structure tying the spars together. To flatten the canopy area to make this feature would require adding material to the molds. I assume this is off the table as it would be too expensive to retool. So rather than having the end customer remove much of the newly added web. I’d take the material that is currently used to make the canopy area web and concentrate it over the bulkhead in a band that is about 20mm wide and about 6 times thicker. Have this thick rigid arch’s anchors spread over the area where the spars will be added. This modification would not need any changes to the molds. It should take as much material (weight) as we now use in the full coverage web. It would still allow for the as is canopy pins. There would need to be an adjustment made to the bulkhead laser cut file. While making that adjustment I'd remove the center hole in the bulkhead. (Maybe leave a small hole for the ESC wire to come back to the RX).

Now I wish I was as good a pilot to be concerned with the canopy scratching the fuselage. I’m still trying to keep the tips and nose looking something like they did when I unboxed the model.

I agree friction fittings and magnets don’t work! Now I come from the time in the 80’s when we got our models from firms like Graupner, Robbe, Simprop, FVK etc. These firms placed a high value on form follows function. On all but their entry level (throw away) models they used a positive spring loaded canopy retention pin. I’m sure these cost pennies Maybe even less than dual slide over flex pin, when looked at the whole manufacturing process. We really shouldn’t have to tolerated that side over pin.

Yes, as this is step up from the Alula I want bottom hinged control surfaces, both for performance and durability concern.
No, I haven’t asked for a new airfoil (this would drive whole new set of molds).

As it is now warts and all the "mini Q" at $160 is a far better value than the $90 EPO foam Alula.

But I see where I think there is room for improvement at no added unit cost. (Yes, there might be some engineering costs, cut files and the like).

We will see what I can do with this as manufactured ship.

Now aren’t you sorry you asked. :rolleyes::cautious:
-Konrad
 
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Can you let me know when you will get some more of the Mini Qs in? Thanks
Martin
 
Konrad - Cool your jets a bit. You are coming off pretty strong.
...
Coming off a pretty strong.

When I get a product I look it over with a critical eye. I do this to see what needs to be done to end up with a product I will be comfortable to use.

I post my opinions and findings as to what I think are some of the initial issues that will need to be addressed. This is my focus on how to solve what I see are the problems with the build. All builds are problem solving exercises. Many (most) issues are just preferences in the equipment and methods we choose to use to complete the model.

Some think that my perspective is far too negative. I post the problems as I first see them. I then try to post my solution to the problem. I do this to help others with their purchase. I also do this to get the perspective of others. Then in the end I hope I can post the positive result of these efforts.
For example take a look at my Samsara thread, Gremlin and Strega threads.
Unfortunately this often looks like a bitch fest as most of the thread is about the problems found and their solutions.


As this thread isn’t so much about my findings but rather the overall impression of the model I’d like to put forward why I purchased the mini Q. Mainly I like the Forward Swept Wings (FSW), size and speed. Their performance appeals to me. I’ve seen a few flying but have never flown one.

Yep, the lack of a carry through spar is why I have waited through 3 or more production runs. I bought mine because I wanted to support my LHS, but I really wanted to wait for bottom hinged surfaces. As we can see sales are brisk, so I doubt there will be much market pressure to improve the product.

When I start to actually work on this model I’ll start a thread about the trials and tribulation of my build. At the end I hope to have a positive conclusion. To be clear I think the mini Q has more than enough performance potential and value as to have purchased one.

All the best,
Konrad
 
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I never bothered to do anything for the tail. It is a nice tight fit.

For the nose I have mine with a bit of tape as I planned to add an electric motor and document that process for others, but never got to it. I should just glue it on. I'll probably use some rubbery stuff like goop, foam tac, or silicon so I can replace it later on should it get damaged. (We can get spare parts folks!)
 
Okay mine's ready for a maiden. Came in at 11.8 Oz. I'm using Hyperion DS 09 servos, they fit nicely with the MP Jet clevis. I also installed clear ISC Racers tape on the leading edges of the wing and on the belly of the fuselage. I went with the recommendations and put 2mm of reflex and have 4 mm up and down for the elevator, and 8 mm for the ailerons up and down. CG at 22mm. Fingers crossed.
 

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I maiden my Mini-Q in 10-12 knots last weekend and absolutely love it. However, at times the wing fluttered, felt like the glider was on the edge of tucking or tumbling. I've the CG set 22 mm with 2.5 mm of reflex. The fluttering only happened a couple of times when pulling out of a downwind bank, so I'm suspected I may have been on the edge of stall speed. Has anybody else experienced this with their Mini-Q.
 
I maiden my Mini-Q in 10-12 knots last weekend and absolutely love it. However, at times the wing fluttered, felt like the glider was on the edge of tucking or tumbling. I've the CG set 22 mm with 2.5 mm of reflex. The fluttering only happened a couple of times when pulling out of a downwind bank, so I'm suspected I may have been on the edge of stall speed. Has anybody else experienced this with their Mini-Q.

you are correct, the Mini_Q needs to be moving, if it slows down it will fall from the sky.
 
Make sure you don't have any play in your servo linkage. I have not noticed any fluttering issues.

Also, how much elevator throw do you have? If you have too much you may be setting up what is called a "hyper stall".
 
I maiden my Mini-Q in 10-12 knots last weekend and absolutely love it. However, at times the wing fluttered, felt like the glider was on the edge of tucking or tumbling. I've the CG set 22 mm with 2.5 mm of reflex. The fluttering only happened a couple of times when pulling out of a downwind bank, so I'm suspected I may have been on the edge of stall speed. Has anybody else experienced this with their Mini-Q.


Make sure your center bulk head is secured !
 
I maiden my Mini-Q in 10-12 knots last weekend and absolutely love it. However, at times the wing fluttered, felt like the glider was on the edge of tucking or tumbling. I've the CG set 22 mm with 2.5 mm of reflex. The fluttering only happened a couple of times when pulling out of a downwind bank, so I'm suspected I may have been on the edge of stall speed. Has anybody else experienced this with their Mini-Q.
I think flutter here was used in place of buffeting (AKA pre stall buffeting). Not aeroelastic fluttering (surface/structural oscillations)
 
Hi there, long break but I took my electric mini q back into the air this week, have swooped the folding prop for a 7x5.5 and the battery is now a 3s 1300 which is a bit heavier but gives a better CG for me.
so... it goes like a rocket, flies on rails etc but I now have a heating problem - the battery and esc are right behind the motor and lie next to each other (to get the cg) so there’s not a lot of room for air cooling.
there are no holes in the fuse for any air to exit - and no-one seems to have mentioned this - is anyone else having this issue and what have you done to solve it? (I really don’t want to start cutting holes with no decent plan!)
 
Yes, you will need cooling especially if you run the motor for more than 60 to 90 seconds. For short motor (15 to 30 seconds) runs followed by long gliding times the mass of the components will often be enough to keep the heat in check.

Cooling adds drag so we don't want too large a set of holes. Luckily we don't need too much air flow to drop the temperatures a lot.

Much of the air inlet will be determined by the motor and motor mount used. Popular schemes are "Turbo" spinner or NACA scoops. Most exit holes are to the rear past all the equipment needing cooling. It would be most efficient to have the exit holes on the top in the low pressure areas of the fuselage (Aft part of the canopy). Esthetically most folks will put the exit holes on the bottom rear portion of the fuselage.

Please give us a photo of your installation and somebody might be able to give you a more detailed plan on how to add cooling.

All the best,
Konrad

P.S.
Can you give us your set up values?
 
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