thenated0g
Moderator
Those full size ones are huge. Were they ever kits or did you pretty much have to diy it?
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Micro Sinbad
- Thread starter Konrad
- Start date
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- Tags
- litespan micro sinbad sinbad
jure
Very Strong User
Large Sinbad plans and construction articles; from 30", 40" , 50" , 62" to 94" wingspan.
Outerzone-Sinbad
Outerzone-Sinbad
Hawaii Sloper
Very Strong User
That looks great Konrad! Can't wait to see the whole plane finished.
Konrad
Very Strong User
Thanks guys!!!
The covering is a "process" sold by Solarfilm in the UK. Unfortunately they have stopped production. The site is still active as the owner is selling off new old stock. If you have used any of the Solarfilm products you know how great they are. Far better than the last iteration of MoneyKote!!!!. But as the product line isn't manufactured anymore I can't recommend the products for a novice. If you know what it is ,then yes stock up on what is left.
As to covering techniques I learned most of them from Harry Higley Tom's Techniques. Now I do love the printed word, but this is one time a video might actually be better at showing how to stretch and shrink the film. Again I don't think micros are the appropriate model to use to learn these techniques. They are just too fragile and actually don't have enough area to "hide" the excess material. That is you really have to get the covering on with as little slack as possible. Then shrink for the final finish. This can be difficult at first.
The covering is a "process" sold by Solarfilm in the UK. Unfortunately they have stopped production. The site is still active as the owner is selling off new old stock. If you have used any of the Solarfilm products you know how great they are. Far better than the last iteration of MoneyKote!!!!. But as the product line isn't manufactured anymore I can't recommend the products for a novice. If you know what it is ,then yes stock up on what is left.
As to covering techniques I learned most of them from Harry Higley Tom's Techniques. Now I do love the printed word, but this is one time a video might actually be better at showing how to stretch and shrink the film. Again I don't think micros are the appropriate model to use to learn these techniques. They are just too fragile and actually don't have enough area to "hide" the excess material. That is you really have to get the covering on with as little slack as possible. Then shrink for the final finish. This can be difficult at first.
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thenated0g
Moderator
Konrad
Very Strong User
Hum, I must have a credibility issue if it takes RED to drive home the issue with covering weight/ pull.
Ok, for this type of structure I'd be looking at 30g/m(2). This is in the 2 micron mylar with tissue range. This is a lot of work for a novice builder. Today the best off the roll covering I know of is Oracover lite. This is about 36g/m(2) or 20% heavier than what I'm using. I think it is marketed in the USA as Parklite.
While it is a bit heavier than So-Lite it (Parklite) is a lot more durable and easier to use than So-Lite. Oracover lite is a good covering for the novice to microRC.
As the Gentle Lady has few compound curves it is a good model to learn to cover. The micro Gentle Lady has much the same benefits but is a bit more critical about the forces used to manipulate the covering.
P.S.
Some folks are using HK "China Coat" [58 to 62 g/m(2)]. This covering is having a durrability issue as it is not colorfast. Now, I've never used it.
Ok, for this type of structure I'd be looking at 30g/m(2). This is in the 2 micron mylar with tissue range. This is a lot of work for a novice builder. Today the best off the roll covering I know of is Oracover lite. This is about 36g/m(2) or 20% heavier than what I'm using. I think it is marketed in the USA as Parklite.
While it is a bit heavier than So-Lite it (Parklite) is a lot more durable and easier to use than So-Lite. Oracover lite is a good covering for the novice to microRC.
As the Gentle Lady has few compound curves it is a good model to learn to cover. The micro Gentle Lady has much the same benefits but is a bit more critical about the forces used to manipulate the covering.
P.S.
Some folks are using HK "China Coat" [58 to 62 g/m(2)]. This covering is having a durrability issue as it is not colorfast. Now, I've never used it.
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thenated0g
Moderator
thenated0g
Moderator
.21 oz, i think the ultracote light is .12 oz
Konrad
Very Strong User
Use 39.37” per real unit of measurement, the meter. HK I think is closer to 5.67 g/Ft(2). That’s the same within experimental error and rounding errors to 6g/Ft(2).
0.12oz/Ft(2) = 36 g/m(2) Looks like my units line up.
I think this is the stuff (rebranded) that these micro where designed to use So-Lite 20g/m(2). Great stuff but it does tend to stick to itself when the clear covering is off. Also the adhesive is prone to delaminate from the plastic film over time.
www.stevensaero.com
0.12oz/Ft(2) = 36 g/m(2) Looks like my units line up.
I think this is the stuff (rebranded) that these micro where designed to use So-Lite 20g/m(2). Great stuff but it does tend to stick to itself when the clear covering is off. Also the adhesive is prone to delaminate from the plastic film over time.
AeroLITE Transparent Ruby Red (2M Roll)
AeroLITE™ Transparent Ruby Red is an ultra light iron-on self-adhesive film that is ideally suited for small electric or glow powered, park flyers, indoor, and micro model aircraft. Transparent colors weigh only 20 grams per square meter (0.60 ounces per square yard) – Solid colors are only...
www.stevensaero.com
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Konrad
Very Strong User
Guys, I've made a classic mistake, I ran out of orange Litespan! Or more to the point I can't layout the parts while maintaining the proper grain direction of the covering. (I know I have another packet of orange. But after 3 moves it is in a safe place that I can't find)!
So anybody have any orange litespan they are willing to part with?
Or what do you graphic artists think about a Sinbad with orange wings and stab on a blue fuse and fin?
So anybody have any orange litespan they are willing to part with?
Or what do you graphic artists think about a Sinbad with orange wings and stab on a blue fuse and fin?
Konrad
Very Strong User
Looking for a sanity check.
As a result of looking at too many undersized V-tails (F3F racers) this stab is looking rather large!
I point to the fact that the SInbad was designed as a Free Flight model. These Free Flight models usually have oversized stabs to add a lot of stability (too much for RC, IMHO). I also recall that many scale free flight models have you add 20% to the stab from the scale stab size.
To cut down on drag I'm thinking of making my stabilizer smaller than the one supplied. This will lower both the wetted area and nose weight.
Ok, ok the real reason is that I need a smaller stabilizer outline to use the as cut basswood length when making my laminated hoops.
So has anybody used a smaller stab on the micro Sinbad? Or how do the stabilizers on the other micro gliders compare to each other? I ask as most of the other micro gliders are based on larger RC gliders not Free Flight models.
As a result of looking at too many undersized V-tails (F3F racers) this stab is looking rather large!
I point to the fact that the SInbad was designed as a Free Flight model. These Free Flight models usually have oversized stabs to add a lot of stability (too much for RC, IMHO). I also recall that many scale free flight models have you add 20% to the stab from the scale stab size.
To cut down on drag I'm thinking of making my stabilizer smaller than the one supplied. This will lower both the wetted area and nose weight.
Ok, ok the real reason is that I need a smaller stabilizer outline to use the as cut basswood length when making my laminated hoops.
So has anybody used a smaller stab on the micro Sinbad? Or how do the stabilizers on the other micro gliders compare to each other? I ask as most of the other micro gliders are based on larger RC gliders not Free Flight models.
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Konrad
Very Strong User
Here I'm using the as supplied laser cut fin as a form to bend the laminate basswood hoops around. I'm using 3 strip to make a hoop that is about 1.5mm wide.
I soak the basswood strips (0.021" x 0.083") in boiling water for about 5 minutes to soften the cellulose fibers. I then squeegee off the water prior to slathering the strips with Titebond glue. This preps the basswood strips prior to bending them around the form.
I prep the form by sealing the edge with scotch tape. This is used as a release barrier to keep from bonding the hoops to the form. I pin down the form. I then use pins in blocks to form the hoops around the form.
This makes a very strong light outline to make the vertical fin. Later in the build you will see why I need such a strong fin outline. I will be trying to make a film fillet between the fin and the fuselage. This will take some force with the iron and covering!
Note I don't like to use ammonia to soften the cellulose fibers as I tend to end up with a curdled mess with the Titebond glue.
I soak the basswood strips (0.021" x 0.083") in boiling water for about 5 minutes to soften the cellulose fibers. I then squeegee off the water prior to slathering the strips with Titebond glue. This preps the basswood strips prior to bending them around the form.
I prep the form by sealing the edge with scotch tape. This is used as a release barrier to keep from bonding the hoops to the form. I pin down the form. I then use pins in blocks to form the hoops around the form.
This makes a very strong light outline to make the vertical fin. Later in the build you will see why I need such a strong fin outline. I will be trying to make a film fillet between the fin and the fuselage. This will take some force with the iron and covering!
Note I don't like to use ammonia to soften the cellulose fibers as I tend to end up with a curdled mess with the Titebond glue.
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