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Micro Sinbad

Not sure what Red's assesment has to do with it. I too was flying micros, my Eflite ASK 21 UMX and Franck Aguerre's design Nexus-900. Both are now in the que to restore/rebuild from the carnage that is Sunset.

I'm hoping to make it up north this Friday.

Thanks to you and Rafael for the wheels.
 
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(me who wrecked like 4 planes last year) I agree BUT

in the mornings when it is really dead its actually really nice. Just a few of us out in the light breeze flying small stuff around.

Mornings work really well, but the two days of 35mph in the afternoon worked better. :p I think there was only 3 or 4 planes out flying, one of them being our RnR Nova (unobtanium$$$) :giggle: Just make a ballast box !!!
 
I asked what was the difference between rib R1 & R2. Based on the accuracy of my fingers and Mk 1 eyeballs this is no difference in the cut files for R1 & R2. Not sure why the plans have these call outs. (It just added to my confusion).
 
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Finally opened my alien tech kit that I got 7 months ago. Thanks for the motivation @Konrad

I decided to try out those 1.7 g. Servos that aloft recommends for the kit. I'm going to see if a little 300mah 1s lipo will work for CG once I get to that point. I'm going to be going with some non-standard covering (regular iron on film) so it's going to be a little bit heavier. Ill have to be really careful when I shrink it. But I just couldn't not use that copper covering they just got in the store. I'll have to make sure I have a spot for my radios to stick out of the fuse lodge.
PXL_20221208_162444720.MP.jpgPXL_20221208_162458320.MP.jpgPXL_20221208_162655368.MP.jpg
 
Alright! love to see a micro.

I need to strongly recommend against using any covering with the weight near anything that is close to Oracover (Ultracoat).
Now with the slab side micro Gentle Lady you might get away with it. Little or no need to pull, stretch or shrink the covering.
If going with the heavy covering DO add some anti warping inserts. Like maybe some tips with the grain 90° to the wood that is supplied.

If your kit is anything like mine it has some real nice wood, not contest grade balsa, but nice light wood. So please use some light weight covering.

I don't mean to be a Debbie Downer but please rethink the covering. The model really needs light covering, more so than light servos.


And please post of your trials and tribulation. I and others will be happy to help.

P.S.
Does the copper color interfer with the 2.4ghz RF? What was the comment about the radio sticking out of the fuselage.

P.P.S.
The center pull rubber bands are a real nice touch on this micro Gentle Lady. Dave Thornburg in his book The Old Buzzard's Soaring book goes into detail why.
The wing hold down is the one aerodynamic change I'll be making to my micro Sinbad. And maybe a smaller stab.
 
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The description in the aloft listing for the copper and other metal ones do comment on it blocking RF. So ill either do a fake canopy with some non metallic or stick the antennas outside somewhere
 
Thanks. I'll have to test that.

P.P.P.S on post #65
If the drawing is correct I really love the grain direction of the fuselage top and bottom sheeting. It always bothers me to see this sheeting often going 90° to the longitudinal axis of the fuselage. There does appear to be some thinking by this designer even at this fundamental level. Love it.
 
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I'm old school. I find videos a slow way to transmit information. Add to that You Tube's ads and I'd rather go to the dentist!
I could read one of my threads In the time it takes to watch just one video.

Looking a Nick's catalog It looks like a good primer.
 
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Im a balsa noob so i like to skip thru it before a build and see whats coming up so i dont screw myself by gluing something early.
 
Notice the next few posts will be showing some areas where I differ significantly from those of the designer.
I'm not making any value judgement. Just a statement that what I'll be posting is not in line with what the design originally covered.

First I'm not comfortable with any dihedral joint that doesn't have some fiber across it. So, out of 1/64" plywood I've made up 3 dihedral braces to reinforce the dihedral joint. I've taken that opportunity to use the braces as the anchors for a front hold down pin. This will allow for the removal of the wing hold down dowels that protrude into the wing to fuse junction. Also this front hold down pin will be used to key the canopy. Freeing the magnets to be used as the rear wing hold down. I hope you can see why I added the armor I mentioned earlier. The front was to hold the front pin and the saddle ones are to protect against the slide off ramps of the pin anchors.

Note, that I assume the designer is well versed in control and stability issues. So until proven otherwise I'm staying with the 4" dihedral shown on the plans.

Sinbad dihedral braces.jpg
Sinbad Dual Braces.jpg

Sinbad Single Brace.jpg

Sinbad front hold down junction.jpg
 
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One thing I've learned, both as an engineer and as a modeler, is that I know of no equations that adequately describe (predict) the disproportional detrimental effects of drag on our models as a function of size. Yes, the Reynolds number is to address most of this. But it is my experience that empirical observation show that drag is more pronounced than what the equations would indicate.

This is why I place so much emphasis on drag reduction, both induced (weight) and parasitic (wetted area). I can't think of a place where adding small protrusions could have a more detrimental effect on drag than in junctions. This is why I think it is so important to remove the rubber bands and dowels in those areas of the aircraft. While I'm all but positive that the original designer of the Sinbad wasn't aware of junction drag. You will see on the original plan that the hold down dowels are placed well down on the fuselage away from the wing and fuselage junction.

In this age of the laser cut kit I see no reason for sheeted tail planes. Sheeted tail planes bring back bad memories of models like those of Tern Aero. I built 1/2 a dozen of the Tern Aero Traveler Sailplane only to find that I couldn't hold trim as the tail warped minute by minute and between flights.

Now a firm that I think is the epitome of balsa micro design and manufacture is Stevens Aeromodel. Here I'm showing his keyed style of build. On this stabilizer you can see the grain direction of the parts are all going the correct direction for their intended function. Also notice the tight fitting keys at each joint. These keys make it almost impossible to misalign the parts and add much needed glue area. These open (stick) structures are often 1/3 maybe 1/4 the weight of the same area sheet surface. They are 2 to 3 time stronger with so much of the grain going the correct direction. And in my opinion infinitely more resistant to warping!

With the laser cut parts this kind of high parts build is actually fun! FYI; this tight fitting multi piece "large" contact area construction does lend it self to the use of thin CA glues.

In my micro Sinbad build I'll be using the traditional cut to size stringer with gusset supports for the tail surfaces. In Nick's video I was surprised that he used a 500 mAh cell. This just validated my opinion/concern that the tail is too heavy.

Sinbad tail constrution.jpg
 
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Like the micro Ridge Runt. If one squints hard enough and one changes the wing for the Gentle Lady, I can see a Sophisticated Lady.
 
I've stated this before, I think the main purpose of the structure is to define the shape of the covering.

In this manual photo I see some "pull" marks. I don't think of these as a covering problem, but rather a structural problem.

My solution is to add some balsa blocks to aid the covering to come on or off the spar.

Also note that even with my laminated tip I think the aft end of the tip is too flexible. I added another brace to keep the aft end of the tip from curling up.

This is a design/engineering compromise. Adding weight to the tips is not what we want if we want a responsive wing/glider.

Sinbad manual tip.jpg

Sinbad tip blocks.jpg

Sinbad tip sanded.jpg
 
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Not much on the configuration build side of things other than while fitting the wing to the fuselage I see that the rear of the wing does sit on the rear bulkhead (F4). This is in contrast to what my set of plans shows where the wing sits betwen F3 nd F4. With the wing on top of F4 one will need to sand a "V" into the top of F4 to allow for the wing's dihedral. (Make sure the wing sits flat on the fuselage wing saddles).

This build is coming along so well that I've desided to raid my stash of LiteSpan covering. This covering is no longer available.

The other photos are of some basic building and sanding. Key is to use sharp sandpaper with a hard backing. Also if needed, do hand sand any discontinuities you might find.

Sinbad rear wing seat.jpg

Sinbad Lite Span stash.jpg

SInbad top sheeting.jpg

Sinbad Sanding LE.jpg

Sinbad tip transition.jpg

Sinbad hand sand.jpg
 
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