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Micro GL - They Said It Couldn't Be Done . . .

JohnT

Strong User
They said it couldn't be done. No, wait, they said it shouldn't be done. Er, uh, now I remember, it doesn't need to be done. Yeah, that's the ticket!

So, as previously mentioned, I live in MO and travel to SoCal to see family from time-to-time. I like to get in some slope soaring there and wanted to build a Micro GL with split wings. Understanding it's a small plane with a 30" wing span, that was still too big to fit into an airline carry-on. So, here's my build.

I built all four wing panels following the plan, the main difference was not gluing the center sections together.


Then, I made things hard on myself. I cut a piece of 3.2 mm CF Tube to fit across the Right and Left bays, Root R1 to the Second R1. I set the tube on top of the Root R1s, with the wing dihedral set and measured down from the ends to the bay 'floor'. Used that measurement to located a hole in the end of R1, which I drilled through. Doing this again from scratch, I would have just notched down Root R1 until the CF Tube was where I wanted it.


The next place I made things hard for myself was worrying about maintaining alignment of the CF Tube while it was glued in place. I left the tube in one piece, instead of splitting it. Then, had to cut it between the two Root R1s. Dug into the surfaces of the ribs cutting the tube, but got them apart. In retrospect, I would have been just fine to put the 1.58mm joiner CF Rod into the pieces of tube to maintain alignment. It turned out fine, as I had plans to laminate a 1/32" piece of basswood to the ends of the ribs anyway.


The CF Tube was secured by CA with balsa sawdust added. I also placed an alignment pin, adding a little balsa reinforcement inside of R1 for the pin. Drilling for that pin got a little close to the surface, but no worries, Filled in with a little CA, balsa sawdust and there will be balsa sheeting on top. Pin will be glued into the left root, to prevent loss.


CF Rod for joiner and alignment pin glued on the left side. Root ribs top sheeted. I cut new top sheet pieces to cover the basswood addition to R1, as the originals were not wide enough after adding the basswood.


Left inner and outer panels glued together, setting up.


A little spritz with some flat black paint for the wings and tail feathers and it's ready to be covered. 1mm Laminating Film will be here this week. I'm leaving the fuselage 'natural' and it will all be covered clear.


I did not think to do before and after weights to figure out how much weight I might have added with my plan variation. The CF adds less than a Gram. The paint will add a little bit.

I have a DSM2 micro receiver and sub-micro servos that I pulled out of a spare Lightning Bug DLG fuselage that I'm figuring out the placement for.

I'll post a finished picture when I get done.

Regarding flying . . . what wind range will the Micro GL tolerate? Can you add ballast to fly into stronger wind?

Cheers!

John
 
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nice work John !
Thanks Jure. We'll see how 'nice' it is when I get an All Up Weight with covering and electronics! :giggle:
I like it! Now you’ll have to make a custom small box to transport it that can hold your Tx and still fit in the overhead bin…

Hank
Thanks Hank. My first thought is to play around with a rolling carry-on bag and some 1" foam sheet . . . I'll post that in this thread if I come up with something interesting.

John
 
For some reason, I'm not getting thumbnails showing up in previous posts, just links. I'm trying a different posting method in this message. (I've since changed the format for the previous pictures, so all should be showing up.)

Today was electronics. I had Rx and servos in a spare Lightning Bug DLG fuse that I scavenged for the Micro GL. Not as small as a brick, but available for DSM2/X.


I did find some interesting linear servos on Amazon that are a future consideration:

Space constraints and servo design (namely that pod on the bottom) made me install them in a manner I've never done before. Rudder servo is laid on its side, with the servo arm straight up. The servos were too tall to go in upright. The 'Bug' had a deep enough bay for some 1/4"x1/4" servo rails.


That pod made me space up the second servo for the elevator. I'm set for rudder and elevator. I did check clearance for the wing and it JUST clears that top servo.


With servos installed, the receiver went in next, on the port side. Wanted to install it fully against the side, but it's a little too tall with the rail there. May cut out a piece of the rail and stick it to the side. At the moment it's wedge in place.


Battery (from Aloft) is velcroed to the forward, starboard side. Looks like it needs to shove forward a bit.


Up next, I'm wanting a more conventional tow hook for bungee launching. You'll see a piece of basswood for reinforcement in the first picture above, just aft of the servos. That will come soon.

John
 
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By the way, speaking of electronics, in case anyone else has need to go the the 'Dark Side' and run DSM2/X on their model, here's what I used from Buzzard Models:
CM410X DSM2 Compatible 4CH 2.4GHz micro receiver (2.1Gm)

Servos from Buzzle Products (which is apparently also Buzzard Models?)
BM5330 1.9g Ultra Micro Nano Digital Servo Molex 1.25mm pitch Micro RC 5330 (1.9-2.1Gm/each)

Battery from Aloft Hobbies
Gens Ace 1S 200mAh 45C Molex 1.25 (4Gm each)

So, at 2.1Gm for the Rx, 1.9-2.1Gm/servo and 4Gm for the battery, I have around 10Gm of electronics on board. I'll be interested in how my C.G. comes out, after covering. There are probably better choices out there for micro servos. Two years ago these were available AND compatible with the micro JST 1.25mm pitch plug-ins on the Rx board.

John

P.S. I'm flying modified 'Mode 2' with Rudder and Elevator on the right stick. Or would that be a 'Reverse Mode 1'? :cool:
 
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Mode?
Primary directional control and elevator on the right stick is known as mode two. With the radio programing it makes no difference if the primary directional control is rudder, aileron or spoilerons. It is the left and right movements of the right stick for directional control that is used in your programing that is key.

I hope this helps with your radio set ups.
 
Looking good.

Small correction I see a lot of people make. The covering is probably 1 mil, not 1mm. Very different measurements. 1mm film would be very thick stuff.
 
Looking good.

Small correction I see a lot of people make. The covering is probably 1 mil, not 1mm. Very different measurements. 1mm film would be very thick stuff.
The thought briefly chased though my mind that 1mm would be AWFULLY thick . . . then I saw a squirrel and the thought went right out of my mind. Went back and looked at the material description and it is described as: Thickness 1mil (28mic)

Errrrr, ummm, I'm looking for a puncture resistant covering. Yeah, that's the ticket!
Mode?
Primary directional control and elevator on the right stick is known as mode two. With the radio programing it makes no difference if the primary directional control is rudder, aileron or spoilerons. It is the left and right movements of the right stick for directional control that is used in your programing that is key.

I hope this helps with your radio set ups.
I'm getting schooled today! Obviously, I thought 'Mode 2' referred ONLY to Rudder/Throttle on the Left and Aileron/Elevator on the Right. I've always flown my gliders Rudder/Elevator on the right stick . . . except my Volantec Phoenix which has throttle and ailerons to contend with. Goes back to my Kraft 2-Channel brick days. :D

John
 
I really like a conventional tow hook; maybe the hook on the right side of the nose would have worked fine. The Micro GL is similar in scale to my 'Bug', so more modification and I'm in the ballpark for a similar, conventional tow hook. I have a Micro Bungee that I've used for the 'Bug', that should work well for the Micro GL.

You can see the 1/32" Basswood reinforcement in the bay under the wing in the third picture. Unfortunately, the servos had to be mounted right where the tow hook needs to be ... about 5mm back from the F2 bulkhead. Soooo, I made something like this from 0.047" pushrod wire (smallest I had - guess I could have used a big paper clip):



Towhook snakes down through the hole in the reinforcement and protrudes forward. The tape is temporary. A piece of good, strong, sticky packing tape could work. It could get glued in. Probably the tape, so it can be removed or changed.


Tow hook positioned, forward of the hole in the floor. Black mark is 5mm back from F2.


And, a side view. Will probably have to bend that hook up till it's almost parallel with the fuse, to prevent slip-off during launch. This is about the most angle it can have and still be removed through that hole.


This mod has added 2-3Gm to the All Up Weight.

My covering should be here by Thursday and we're going out of town for two weeks Friday Morning. Hopefully, I can get this covered before we go. Also need to get my carry-on idea finished, as we leave for most of May in SoCal around May 4th.

Cheers!

John
 
Think that is wild overkill. I have used part of a small paper clip taped to the bottom of a much larger slope model and would launch that plane at about 80mph. Trick is you hold the hook, not the plane.
 
Think that is wild overkill. I have used part of a small paper clip taped to the bottom of a much larger slope model and would launch that plane at about 80mph. Trick is you hold the hook, not the plane.
Thanks Wayne, that is good to know! I'll downsize it here in the near future and consider taping it to the bottom. Obviously taking me a 'hot minute' to step away from my 'Full Size Glider' past. :p

John
 
Is this a little more reasonable? Blenderm is great stuff! Even a paperclip looks huge on there! :cool:
 
A buddy and I had some adventures towing one of the micros, I have the GL and he has...I forget, but one of the others that Red made. We stuck a piece of stainless wire into the nose and bent it backwards, and I just now measured it at about 0.0018" or about .5mm. You can see the wire on the right side of the nose in this image.

1681395364703.png


Towing with the powered plane was rough (you gotta love Patricks "prepared" stance) (he's on the left)
But after a few very failed attempts we did get it up

What worked much better were the quad tows :) and you can check one of them out here.

The quad pulled it quite high quite quickly and then Patrick could enjoy some longer flights.
1681395784521.png


And it worked well, as long as I didn't descend too quickly :(
1681396207272.png
 
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  • Haha
Reactions: Red
the tow plane speed is too fast for that GL glider.
I think that you need a slower towing speed , comparable to the glider flying speed.
The quad tow shows this concept.
 
What a blast! Well, maybe not the first video. How did the Quad end up plowing the earth? <grin>

John
 
Yeah, it was hard to tow slow enough. The quad ate it when I descended too quickly. If you look at the top right prop, you can see the tow line wrapped around it. :) We had a blast with it!
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Red
I'm getting real close ... and leave this morning for two weeks. Laminating film came yesterday while I was mowing, so I got a little done while watching TV last night. My Not-Quite-All-Up-Weight, with the fuse covered and flight surfaces uncovered was 41 Gm! That seems very light.


The fuse is actually covered with 1.5 MIL ;) clear laminating film. The material that came yesterday is 1 Mil matte laminating film. Not sure it's turning out to be exactly what I want, as it does not go down on balsa sheet with a clean look - kind of silvery and shows iron tracks. It stiffens the wing just fine and it'll fly. Did end up with minor twists in both covered panels that I will take out when I get back. Never see the minor stuff when it's in flight, so, I'll just have to keep it in the air! The 1 Mil is also a little more challenging to work with than the 1.5 Mil LF!


Sooooo, I'll get the tail assemble and finish the other wing when we get back. Then I'll figure out how I want to fit it into a carry-on bag and it will be off to SoCal for sloping.

Cheers!

John
 
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