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Micro Gentle Lady - Micro Brick / 2 piece wing?

JohnT

Strong User
I've ordered my Micro GL and am patiently waiting for it (and my candy!) to arrive. :p Since I don't actually have the kit in hand, I was wondering if someone would be so kind as to confirm a dimension and think about a possible Mod with me?

My first thought was to set the GL up like my Lightning Bug DLG, with micro servos and receiver (the receiver actually velcros to the side):
1679506103473.png


I'm sure the same setup would satisfy my immediate want for a micro sloaper.

I'm looking at a Buzzard Models MXL-RX62H V3 5 Channel Micro All-in-one Receiver Built-in 5A 1S Brushed ESC for a receiver. The MXL-RX62H would give me a micro brick AND the capability of adding a motor on-down-the-road, should I so desire. It seems to be available with Spektrum protocols. Size is 24.25x22.0x7.9mm @ 3.68g. I'm guessing there is plenty of room for it, but would like to know before I pull the trigger. Downside, it looks like I have to solder a lead to it. The description SAYS 'Built In ESC' but one of the manuals shows a seperate ESC? Hmmmm

With a size of "Size is 24.25x22.0x7.9mm" what is the fuselage bay size?

The modification I'm interested in, as mentioned in my other thread in the 'Glider Forum', is to make the wing two-piece for travel. Again, without the kit in hand, I'm ballparking. Would there be room for a piece of 5mm O.D. Carbon Fiber Tube, either in front of, or behind, the spar, crossing the first two bays? It would end up a two-piece tube, possibly with a wing joiner of bamboo skewer. Since the spar/each wing panel appears to butt up, with the Root Ribs glued togther, this seems like it would provide good strength. Maybe a second, smaller piece of CF Rod partway back toward the T.E. as an alignment pin?
1679507745646.png


From there, depending on the formers under the L.E. and T.E. I might put a dowel/piece of bamboo skewer side-to-side through the fuse, glued to the former, for rubber bands. Run them in a 'V' or a '/\', depending on location of the cross-dowel, to secure the wing and help hold them together - in other words, keep a single wing holder dowel in front and the cross-dowel in back, or vice versa.

I'm downsizing this concept from the wing build on my Olympic II, which has brass tubes epoxed to the spars, in the first two rib bays, with a steel rod as a joiner/spar, plus another steel pin for alignment.
1679507767488.png


Would probably either veneer a thin piece of plywood over the existing Root Rib or replace it with a slightly thicker piece of plywood.

Sooooo, comments, criticism, counseling, suggestions or witty reparte?

John
 
I've built the micro GL. Not sure why you would split this little of a wing. It won't be needed for travel, very small to begi

n Wi
th. Cat on the kboard.
 
I've built the micro GL. Not sure why you would split this little of a wing. It won't be needed for travel, very small to begi

n Wi
th. Cat on the kboard.
Evening Freecrowder,

I'll be building it in MO, where I live. I occasionally travel to SoCal to see family and would like to fly this out there. Long Beach Bluff Park. Max carry-on luggage size is 22 inches long, 14 inches wide and 9 inches high. I can make a case that will hold the fuse and two 15" wing halves. Ruder might be a challenge. Removable vertical?

I MAY leave it in SoCal, in which case I could take it out in completed pieces and do final assembly out there.

If I'm driving, I can easily take my Alula. Could easily find room for a completed Micro GL. Could probably find room for something larger. Makes me wish I had split my full size Gentle Lady wings like I did the Olympic II. Six feet of wing is hard to vacation with.

Cheers!

John
 
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Probably easier to just make a good box for it and ship it to So Cal. Probably cost less than $10 to ship.
 
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