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Mefisto build (BLEJZYK)

Yikes, I need to get back to my Hobie Hawk!

On wood finished wings I like to have a painted leading edge. This is to mask LE repairs later down the road.
 
Careful what you use on the wood of these planes! I have been told that oil based finishes will "finish" your wings when they melt the foam inside the wing. We strongly suggest a water based product.
 
Comes in a water base also, just not in an aerosol yet. I'll attempt to ruin some samples before shooting the Mefisto.
 
Moving along nicely.
 

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Yep, nice light glass work in the Blejzky fuselages.

Are those Blue Bird servos? After a few years of flying my PDI servos are showing a bit more wear (backlash) than I like.
 
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It's a financial thing..$180 airframe, Bluebirds, $500 airframe, KST's. I still need to decide if I want to build it with a 2 piece wing. Probably won't bother with any top drive stuff in this build either. How are those JX servos holding up?
 
It's a financial thing..$180 airframe, Bluebirds, $500 airframe, KST's. I still need to decide if I want to build it with a 2 piece wing. Probably won't bother with any top drive stuff in this build either. How are those JX servos holding up?
OK,
The ones I'm using are at the bottom end of the budget servo I'd use on the Mefisto. I'm not about to rip them out.

Electrically they are fine. Assuming the wire (lead and pot) were good to start with. There is insufficient strain relief at the case exit. So not good if the leads are meant to move around. The gear train is definitely second tier! Backlash is at about the limit for this speed of model. I get some double centering depending on which way the servo is rotating. These were $10 servos and shouldn't be thought of as being in the same class as the KST $50 servo.

I think the Blue Bird $25 servo is just about perfect for the Blejzyk models, if the 10mm thickness isn't an issue.

The top drive flaps were no more difficult than the bottom drive. I think they help with lower drag and keep the linkage out of the weeds on landing
 
It doesn't look like there's any carbon reinforcement in the trailing edge spar. The 10 mm thickness is not a problem in the Mefisto.
 

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It doesn't look like there's any carbon reinforcement in the trailing edge spar. The 10 mm thickness is not a problem in the Mefisto.
That is true. The way I did the top drive I didn't need to violate the rear spar. Do make sure you have enough clearance with those nice surface pockets, regardless of the surface drive.
 
I tried that with my Magnus and wasn't totally happy with it. I was extremely happy with my Mini Terminator install.
 

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On the Magnus it looks like the horn pivot is too far aft. This would limit the amount of down flap.

On my Mefisto I think my flaps only go down 70° - 75°. But this is limited by the hinge line and pocket depth.
 
Konrad - it's been a couple of years since this Mefisto build - any insights or lessons learned in the ensuing years? Would you have done anything different? I'm embarking on an Elf build... so I'm curious - thank you - Rich
 
Rich,

Konrad is no longer on this forum. If you message me your email I’ll send it on to him. I’m sure he’d be glad to answer any question you might have.

Hank
 
@Konrad - Yeah, he's still around. He might give a response, never know.

I need to dust mine off and get her back in the air. I find it to be a very nice airframe that likes to fly.
 
Konrad is not banded but he is not actively monitoring this forum. I often don't stop by unless somebody drives me here.

As to the question. I love my Mefisto. The only thing I'd change is adding extra carbon around the inside of the wing fillet, and/or make the wing opening a lot smaller. I'd seal the flap and aileron pockets to try to control warpage as a result of moisture changes. While I like my ballast tube as a fuselage stiffener, I'd size it for about 200 to 250 grams. While I do fly the Mefisto with my full weight 9 slugs (450g ?), the Mefisto really isn't a high wind ship. When the winds are in the 40 MPH plus range the wings can go into flutter. And this is with all the glass work going out to the 1/3 span.

So the take away is if I did another I'd follow Wayne's advice and focus the build for a moderate lift ship. The wing really can't hold up to high speed flight, so don't fly her fast.

Strong points are that it is a good light to moderate lift ship. Do add glass fiber across the V-tail mounting.

Love the skewed fuselage servo mounting, really love the 100° V tail and top drive flaps.

I don't like my dye job. I also don't like the servos I used.

All the best,
Konrad
 
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Just a short thank you to Konrad for sharing a tip for my Mefisto build - which will be focused
on minimum pack size. The V-tail had me puzzled, but Konrad sent me a drawing of the following solution
(still in initial stages of building):

20220123_215636.small.jpg

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20220123_215709.small.jpg


I'm really hoping that will work. The V has turned out at least 100 degrees (unintentionally), so we'll see where that leads!
More pictures and a build log (in Dutch) will appear at
 
Looks great! I'd think that narrowing each stab span a bit (8mm) but leaving the elevator stock length will allow the control horns to align with the rear of the fuselage making it easier to connect with the stock bowden tubes.

Have I said I really like what you have done here!

After you get the nesting stabs to fit I'd glass the nest to the end of the stab with 2 or 4 layers of 0.5 or 0.7 oz per sqr foot glass, maybe 30mm past the seam .

I love my 100° +-2° V tail. I'm sure you will also. (I don't like 110° V-tails)
 
I read that you wanted a glider nose fuselage. Aloft and Blejzyk have seperated noses for sale.
 
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