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Mefisto build (BLEJZYK)

Konrad,

What about a piece of wire soldered to the push rod to act as a spring keeper? Similar to what we used to do with the park flyers using heatshrink to hold the wire to the pushrod. But don’t use heat shrink use something stronger.

I think you used this technique on the Fairchild.

Hank

Hank
 
It will be close if this Mefisto will make it to the Sunset beach fly in. With any luck tonight will be the last of the epoxy and fiberglass lay ups. Then I think all that is needed after tonight is assembly work. I will still need to glue in the wing servos. If I don’t get my G-6RX receivers by mid day Friday I think I can fit my G-8RX. So the only real issue is my time management skills.

But now she looks like a sloper!

I did set the “V” angle down from 110° to 99°, I was aiming for 100°. This was discussed earlier in the thread. I also added a 0.7mm shim to the LE of the stab. I did this as it looks to me that the chord line with the S6063 airfoil might be pointed up more than the wing saddle would have liked with the HN1033 airfoil.

I like the bolt sockets that come with the Blejzk kits

All the best,
Konrad
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Konrad,

That looks really nice. I’ll be looking forward to flight reports. Wish I could make the subset beach fly in. Sounds like fun.

Hank
 
Thanks Hank,
By the time stamp I assume you are again in Asia.

While the photos look bad (washed out) the Mefisto does have nice lines. I'd have liked to see a longer fuselage but the added surface area of the tail makes up for it.

As a side note Blejzyk hand selects the balsa for the tails. Every kit I have has had very nice wood back there.

The good news today is that last nights epoxy did cure. I always have a bit of anxiety about my epoxy curing.
 
Lunch break!

Other than adding the trim weight and installing the Rx I think the fuselage is now completed enough to fly.
You might notice that I’ve hardened the flippers with 2 layers of .6oz fiberglass on each side. I also added 6 layers of 0.6 glass over the top of the V joint. Historically I’ve always found this area troublesome.

The top drive flap geometry has been worked out. I used 2 layers of 0.6 oz glass around the exit holes as load spreaders. I hope you can see that even with the GWS retainers I don’t need to violate the rear drag spar. As the flaps really can’t go much past 60° down.

I might be able to put a coat of varnish on this thing tonight.

All the best,
Konrad

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Well, it’s official, I’m a Blejzyk fan boy!

At the 2019 Sunset Beach Camp & Fly I maiden the Blejzyk Mefisto. It was one of least stressful maidens I’ve had in a long time. There literally was no need for trim changes. Yes, I did trim the elevator for reflex and flap modes. I also trimmed the elevator comp for crow. But that was it.

The center of gravity is aft of 74mm (77mm) but not by much. With Aloft Hobbies 1300mAh 5 cell battery there was no need for trim ballast in the nose! This is only my second glider that I haven’t need to add nose weight to get the Center of Gravity (CoG) correct.

Rolls where nice. I will play a bit with the differential and the flap to aileron mix ratios. But as is, the rolls are more than acceptable. I did have to unload the stab (add just a touch of down) earlier than normal to get axial rolls.

Now to the rudder response, in a word fantastic! I really like the 100° “V” tail. I saw no wiggle during any part of the flight envelope. Nor did I notice any wandering at low speeds. Inverted flight had much the same feel.

Crow was very effective. Not like hit a wall effective but very nice. Even at full ballast I could fly backwards if needed to hit my landing zone. I have to note that the rudder was very responsive even at landing speeds. This was nice as it helps keep the wing tips level near the ground as I’m placing the model in the landing zone. This minimizes the chances of digging a tip into the ground and starting a cart-wheel.

Some set up notes. With the S6063 airfoil I placed the wing with about 7mm of the LE in front of the wing saddle. This does makes it look like the wing’s incidence is pointed up. To adjust for this I changed the decalage by raising the LE of the stabilizer by placing 0.7mm shim on the front of the stabilizer mounting pad. Looking at the elevator trim setting it looks like I could have used a 0.8mm shim. (The stab and elevator are flat on the bottom of the stab).

As noted earlier the CofG is aft of the factory mark 74mm vs 77mm(this is normal for my style of set up). I’ll make a measurement when I get some time.

All up weight looks like I’m 100g over weight coming in at 730g (25 3/4 oz). I have to say that with the coastal lift around here I really like that I put in the ballast tube. At Sunset State Beach there were times I could have used a bit more than the 370g (13 oz) of ballast I had allowed for.

At the empty weight of 730g (25 3/4 oz) the ship had no bad habits. At full weight my ballast tube shifts the CofG aft a bit to 77mm. At this weight 1100g (38.8 oz) and with the CofG a bit aft I noticed that the left wing would always stall first. This indicates that I may have a slight twist in the wing. (I can’t see it). I may sand the LE of the left wing a bit to lower the airfoil entry point. Please note that I had to really slow down the ship or pull real hard G’s to get the stall. As cut the Blejzyk wings have no wash out cut into the wing cores. (Another feature I like about the Mefisto).

To show that this Mefisto isn’t a fluke. I helped RalfH with his maiden of the Blejzyk Hammer. Again the maiden was a non-event. I’m sure a lot of this is attributed to his fine build. Now RalfH and I are both using Mike Shellim’s templet. Both models need to bring in the elevator comp (SpC) for Crow rather quickly. (This it true of most models). Yes, I have a very early Taranis plus with the amber screen.

Now we need to get RalfH to do a write up on his nice Hammer build. He added a few nice features!

All the best,
Konrad

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Konrad,

Congrats on the successful maiden. Sounds like the camp n fly was a success. Looking forward to some flight pics ( no pressure and I’m not saying it didn’t happen).

Hank
 
Sorry I'm not very good at flying and filming at the same time. :rolleyes:

Some of my set up values.
CofG: 77mm to 78mm (Most folks don't like it this far aft.)
Elevator: Up 11mm, Down 14mm ( very hard to snap empty, but will snap with full ballast)
Ail to flap: Up flap 10mm, Down flap 8mm (would like 10mm both way)
Ailerons: Up 12mm, Down 10mm
Crow: Ailerons Up 11mm, flaps down 17mm ( ailerons go down 2mm for roll)

I did find a bit of a dip at the left wing trailing edge. This might be the "twist" I noticed during high "G's".
With a wet paper towel (to control the heat to 100°C) I ironed out this dip.

I will bed the wing to the fuselage. Maybe I'll continue with the test flights, uninterrupted with a get-together or contest, on Tuesday. The wife is always laughing at me for allowing events to interfere with my flight test program!:mad:
 
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Trust me, he was smiling after the flight!
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Thanks for letting me throw her out for you.. Always a magic moment when they leave your hand for the first time. What a sweetheart!

Later in the weekend Konrad helped another pilot with his Hammer maiden! Now you can see him smiling.
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Always great to see these birds in the air!!
 
Yep, both maidens looked the same. The ships lifted straight out of your hands and flew majestically to the horizon, no trims needed! Those flight actually had a magic feel to them.

That other pilot is RalfH on this forum. Ralf was instrumental in getting me to finish both the Mefisto and Mach II as he supplied me with the 15mm copper couplers that I filled with lead as ballast. Sanda seems to have sized their ballast tube for these as ten are a perfect fit in the ballast tube of the Mach II. I had sized the Mefisto's ballast tube to the size of the brass ballast that Mibo supplies. Much to my dismay this size isn't available in the USA.

Ralf was a visitor at the 2018 Sunset Beach Camp & Fly. I gave him some stick time on my Multiplex Heron (BTW it is the best 6 servo foamy I've ever flown). I recommended it as full house glider trainer. I also said that a cost effective step up would be the Blejzyk line carried by Aloft Hobbies.

A year later and I'm thrilled that Ralf followed my recommendations and that they have proven to have worked out great. I'm sure this has more to do with Ralf's attention to detail than anything I may have said.

All the best,
Konrad
 
Looking good everybody. I’ve had the privilege of working with Konrad on several of my maidens. It’s always fun he has a great sense of how the model is behaving and can recommend the right trim input.

I’ll have to try to make next years camp n fly.

Hank
 
Thanks guys.

Now for the build issues, or gotcha points.

There really weren’t many. The preceding 3 pages were details of my build, punctuated with my preferences and biases.

The following are notes of build areas that I think the builder should be aware of.

First; is that the Ruddervator (back flippers) don’t have enough area to allow full purchase of the supplied control horns.
Second; with the fine wood that is supplied with the “V" tails, I think there should be some fiberglass added to the control horn mounting area as “armor”.

Third; make sure the tail control rods exit the rear of the fuselage between the stab hinge line and linkage hole on the control horn (biased towards the control horn hole). Not below the control horns.

Forth; the part line of the nose insert and the fuselage are NOT index marks to help align the parts to each other. Also the fuselage part line is not on center line.

Fifth: add stiffening carbon on the bottom of the top wing skin to support the wing servos.

And last if using water based Polyurethane apply it to both sides of the wing and tails at the same time to allow for even “wetness”. Any apparent warping will balance out as the polyurethane dries.

With the S6063 airfoil I strongly recommend that the leading edge of the stab be raised 0.7mm on the stab mounting pad.

Don’t add carbon reinforcements along the fuselage servo tray. This just makes it harder to place the antennas.

All the best,
Konrad
 
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Yep, that was me with the Hammer. Absolute joy to fly, though I admit that I do lack a decent comparison basis as this is my first real full house glider. It flew well as set up, just needed a bit of trim to fine tune. I bungled the elevator comp for crow, which made landing a bit more interesting, but that was entirely my fault as I rushed through the setup on Saturday morning to get out to Sunset Beach. This is a great event to look at gliders and talk to folks. Helped me a lot to have some more experienced eyes look over the glider before tossing it off a cliff...

The Heron was a great suggestion and I would recommend it to anyone trying to get into a full house setup. I don’t actually use the motor much if at all, but it’s a great insurance policy to get out of “situations“...

Have to say a great thank you to many folks here on the forum, so much good input for building and setup. I’ll take Konrads earlier hint and do a write up on the build. Reading through many of these here and on RCGroups has helped me a lot in figuring out what to do.

Ralf
 
Konrad,

Back on post #34 you mention that the Tap Plastic epoxy you used for the glass lay up is a short pot lift epoxy. Can you clarify how short is short? 20 min, an hour?

Hank
 
About 5 to 6 min at 20°C for 25cc. I like to mix 5cc to 10cc batches and can get away with a little more pot life maybe 8 min. Now if I spread it thin on the work piece I get a comfortable 10 minutes of work time. As odd as this sounds if it starts the kick before I'm ready I can get a few seconds more working life if I heat it up (this lowers the viscosity allowing the epoxy to flow). BUT boy will it set fast after the heating, so it's a judgement call. This time is for pot life. In a lay up it takes about 2to 3 hours for it to set tach freee and 24 hours for a full cure.
 
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Anybody know of a cleaner way to retain the wire? The GWS retainer looks a bit bulky and might be a problem if I need to come up from the bottom (next to the skin).

This might work for you.
Pics before and after trimming.
Make two loops in the same plane.
Then twist one 90deg.
Keep the loops tight and circular.
A pair of fine round nose pliers are good for that.
You might experiment with wire size and distance between loops.
Add heat shrink if desired.
 

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Looks interesting. No need for heat! Can one slide the retainer on and off relatively easily and still maintain decent retention?

All the best,
Konrad
 
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