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Magnus Electric Build Thread

The antennas have to be threaded through using heat shrink tubing. I made some 3D printed antenna guides to hold the antennas below the fuselage. Although I don't have the full carbon Magnus, the rear half of the fuselage is full carbon. I was getting some RSSI low alerts with the antennas up higher.

IMG_2179.JPG IMG_2181.JPG
 
For additional insurance I installed an Archer RS receiver in the nose, with the antennas taped at right angles to each other in the bottom of the nose which is fibreglass.

IMG_2182.png

Archer RS on the RHS of the nose.
IMG_2184.png
 
ESC update

Although the performance of the Hobbywing Platinum Pro 60A is great, I was seduced by the promise of a lot of telemetry from a Neuron 60S, especially the mAh consumed. A consumption sensor makes battery management easy, especially on gliders where you don’t have room for large batteries. (Having said that I also use a consumption sensor on my 1.6m Flightline Spitfire which gives me up to 12 minutes of motor run when flying sedately.)

The Neuron would not play nicely with the Typhoon 4W-25 at first, until I turned off the
Low RPM Protect setting in BLHeli32. The motor would run, but there was insufficient thrust for takeoff. That has been resolved with the
Low RPM Protect setting turned off.
 
Low rpm protect. Is that a stalled protection feature? Or is it the slow spool up feature to protect the gears used on most helicopters.

Thanks for the details in this thread.
 
Low rpm protect. Is that a stalled protection feature? Or is it the slow spool up feature to protect the gears used on most helicopters.

Thanks for the details in this thread.
Actually the correct name is Low RPM Power Protect. According to the BLHeli_32 doco this can be disabled to get more power when running low Kv motors on a low cell count. Neither of those conditions is true in my case. The 4W-25 motor has a Kv of 1360 and I am using 4S. Go figure. However, BLHeli_32 does not have a parameter for motor poles, and the 4W-25 only has 6, so maybe it is seeing ’low RPM‘ at startup?
 
Got it, commutation frequency. In the toy market I think it is called electrical RPM, as opposed to shaft RPM.
 
Hi,

I'm just setting up my Magnus for the first time and I would like to check I am reading something correctly on the setup sheet I am following (see attachment).

1) If I take Aileron is it saying that if I push full right aileron stick that the Aileron moves 6mm UP AND the Flap moves 6mm up (and vice versa)?
2) There is no advice on when just using Flaps. I.e if Flaps are fully deflected DOWN should the Elevator be up by X mm? I know I have had to do this on other models.

Apologies if these appear to be silly questions but I would like to make sure I get it correct.

Thanks

Mike

1633189264993.png
 
Hi, Jono’s set up sheet says the ailerons go up by max 6mm at the tip. This is the narrowest part of the aileron, so at the inboard end of the aileron where it’s at the widest point, you’ll have more than 6mm throw. The tip is the best place to measure from as it’s a fixed point.
The flap throw is measured against the stub wing fairing on the fuselage.
The sheet quotes 46mm down flaps for full crow braking, with the ailerons going up 2.5mm at the tip and the elevator having 3mm DOWN compensation, not up.
I’d suggest a 2 or 3 rate set up to take into account how fast the Magnus can travel, you don’t want to roll it into the deck do you…
Good luck and enjoy!
 
Quick question - what is the favoured size of 4s that people are using?

Mike


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My 4S 1800mAh Tattu is the largest that fits under joiner using my battery ‘sled’ (refer to post #27). It weighs 198g. I can just balance the CG at 80mm with the LiPo all the way back against the receiver wiring. (The front of my receiver is just ahead of the ballast pockets.)

The 1300mAh Tattu weighs 148g and sits a little more forward. This gives a slightly lower stall speed. According to eCalc the stall speed is 37km/h.
 
Hi,

I'm just setting up my Magnus for the first time and I would like to check I am reading something correctly on the setup sheet I am following (see attachment).

1) If I take Aileron is it saying that if I push full right aileron stick that the Aileron moves 6mm UP AND the Flap moves 6mm up (and vice versa)?
2) There is no advice on when just using Flaps. I.e if Flaps are fully deflected DOWN should the Elevator be up by X mm? I know I have had to do this on other models.

Apologies if these appear to be silly questions but I would like to make sure I get it correct.

Thanks

Mike
Re your question (1): Yes, you can mix aileron into the flaps. I have mine set up that way, with throws according to Jono’s setup sheet.
 
Hi Guys,

Is the CG of 76-84mm from the LE accurate? I just finished my Magnus and it seems like that's really far back compared to what I'm used to flying.
 
I have mine at 79mm, but it could go back a bit.

Set your elevator flat at 0 degrees, and don’t add up trim to slow it down! The Magnus wants to fly fast and can stall and drop a wing with little notice!
 
I find it disturbing that we’ve sold so many of these and there isn’t a single flight video lol
 
LOL - Pretty sure they out there, just not posted to this thread. They are well liked.
 
Hi JT, let’s see if we can get your Magnus sorted out. Would you please say what the plane is doing that makes you say it’s tail heavy. Exactly how did you check the cg, using a cg jig?
At a true 78mm, if anything, the model will be nose heavy, and thus need up elevator trim. If you’re saying it’s tail heavy, is it because under power it wants to climb vertically and try to loop. I have a feeling that is going to be what you say it is doing.
Cheers
Jonty
 
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