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Magnus Build thread - TJIRC

Hey Steve,

I picked up one of these kits a while back:

I have found this to be fair for the price. Works really well for removing composite materials. No great on wood, but loves glass and carbon.

Here is a smaller kit:

While there these are worth having:

Think they used to have a little carbide set that was great for hogging out foam and wood, but can't find the little versions on their site. Think Dremel makes some out of steel that are so-so for foam.
 
Thanks for the reply Wayne!

I do have the cut offs, Ill have to look,my Dad may have left me with some Diamond points..

This is where I am so far. I'm asking before I make a bad cut on the wipers. The tape is crooked, but the lines are proper. (flipping the tape from bottom to top is not square)

Also while I'm here from this picture, I'm sure the hinge point needs to go <--- or --->

Thanks for any input!

Steve




g.png
 
I think you asking for specific bits. I don't like diamond as they load up too fast cutting RFP. Using a coolant might help but that is a mess I don't want to deal with.

I grab these bits almost all the time; 9902, 9903, 9904, 9905, 9910, I hope that gives you the direction you are looking for.
 
Thank you Konrad!

Welp first aileron done.. Loose fit, not glued into place yet. Honestly, feels great!

Steve

:)

 
So from the aileron and flap side in particular, just use a sharp xacto blade. You trim in between the skin and the epoxy blob and then on the balsa sheer web. I found this to be much fast and cleaner than the rotary. Also there is no risk of bubling the skin with the rotary. Which I did a tiny bit on my second one.
 
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Using a Dremel is not for the faint of heart, however with a little thought and practice, it' might be the best tool in your shop. I like a simple inexpensive scalpel blade to the x-acto blade in a lot of situations. I usually buy Dremel bits with my Amazon points. Here's this months set.
 

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So my first go at this setup.

I think it went well, not perfect but will work. My first proper slope glider. It was not that big of a deal to do.. I would recommend gluing down servo trays with servo screws in, I was able to wick the glue out, but could have been a problem.

As for the wings go.. Some paint pealed off with tape.. Seemed to not be saturated when being laid up.. They are/were 2 bubbles/not saturated spots.

Amywho, heres a quick video, not setup yet, but they do work!

Thanks everyone. I have read this thread over and over, much help!

Steve
 

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That will work great!

Sorry about the paint. I use some wimpy tape on my models during the builds. I have also been after TJI to source better paint and methods.
 
Wayne,
No biggy on the paint. This was my guinea pig, my first carbon slope. My yellow one should come out better!

Anyhow, just wondering what everyone's are weighing out to be? Mine is at 984g RTF @ CG 76 for starters. Just need to finish up programming and ready to fly! :)





20220830_215022.jpg
 
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Maybe doubled the snap flaps from the recomended today and the magnus really woke up and started holding energy better and just felt much more solid.
 
Welp, I took my Magnus for a maiden today!

Amazing! It was my maiden for flying composite.. Gave her a chuck, and bam! She was off carving... Little down trim and was good to go. It was blowing 13-28 and had a fun issue landing with no flaps, lol. I have flaps mixed with elevator but even full down elevator it just kept climbing, so I had to suck it up and land with no flaps. (I am new to flaps so landing with out them not an issue) No problems :)

Im asking for any input on my flap issue. I would like to figure this out. To much lift? It was nuking out there..

17 Sep 4:04PM
13 mph SSW (204°)
Gusting:
to 28 mph
Air Temp:
62° F


 
Welp, I took my Magnus for a maiden today!

Amazing! It was my maiden for flying composite.. Gave her a chuck, and bam! She was off carving... Little down trim and was good to go. It was blowing 13-28 and had a fun issue landing with no flaps, lol. I have flaps mixed with elevator but even full down elevator it just kept climbing, so I had to suck it up and land with no flaps. (I am new to flaps so landing with out them not an issue) No problems :)

Im asking for any input on my flap issue. I would like to figure this out. To much lift? It was nuking out there..

17 Sep 4:04PM
13 mph SSW (204°)
Gusting:
to 28 mph
Air Temp:
62° F


Congrats on the maiden. Nice work on your setup. Looks super clean. @thenated0g and I were just talking about this. I have never flown with flaps either, so definitely interested in what the experienced guys have to say. 🤙🏽
 
Thanks for the reply Wayne!

I do have the cut offs, Ill have to look,my Dad may have left me with some Diamond points..

This is where I am so far. I'm asking before I make a bad cut on the wipers. The tape is crooked, but the lines are proper. (flipping the tape from bottom to top is not square)

Also while I'm here from this picture, I'm sure the hinge point needs to go <--- or --->

Thanks for any input!

Steve




View attachment 11977
This is not a comment on pricemo’s pushrod choice but more of a question of possible alternatives. Has anyone used carbon fiber bar stock or tube with holes in the appropriate locations for a pushrod in an application like this? Would there be any positive or negative for using it that way? I could maybe see a potential for the hole to elongate after some use on rods but it seems like an easy way to make some nice pushrods.
 
The setup guide for crow is a good start. I use a curve so maybe 70% of the elevator comes in with the first half of crow. As much flap as you can get. And a little up aileron. Magnus doesn't come to a stop like the 3m ships, but it slows down nicely, a bit or tuning on my curve and no elevator input needed as it deploys.
 
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Here is a super quick vid, ignore the nightmare that is my spare bedroom ;)
 

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Are you raising the ailerons about 10 degrees. This is known as crow. What radio are you using ? But yes you will need a lot of down available in your linkage set up.
 
There is a huge difference in carbon rods. What I see in your description will not work well with pultruded rods. The pin will split the rod.* A mandrel wound carbon might work. But I fail to see any advantage with what I think you are proposing. I like the classic threaded clevis for its ease of adjustments.

*You might have seen my pultruded rods with a collar. This is to try to keep the pultruded fibers from slitting and allowing the threaded feature to breakaway from the push rod.
 
Looking good Tahoed..

Thanks 2MUCH2DO and Konrad.

I am aware of crow, I just didn't want to throw to much at me at once. I just went for flaps as I have landed with them a bit.

Konrad, I have an x20s, its great and very user friendly. I guess I will have to try crow next time I fly.

I just made one switch to do flaps/ele and one to try out crow. I cant use both at the same time as it will overthrow the elevator down as it does the % of movement of its current state. I know this is fixable, but for now I can try both.

I know most use throttle/sliders etc. but I fly others and need the throttle and don't want this to mess me up.. Who fly's with their aileron controls reversed anyhow? (Raises hand) lol

o_O



Thanks everyone for all the help :)

~ Steve
 
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