Magnus Build thread - TJIRC

[Konrad]

Nope grease just attracts dirt and sand!

 

[Konrad]

FYI

 

[2MUCH2DO]

I don't use those spues on the ctrl horn as spring force to hold the top against the top skin while it cures? I't hard to tell in Ali's videos, but I thought thats what he was doing.

 

[Konrad]

Yes, a lot of folk do that. With the offset in the pin holes I like to place the pin as far away from the hinge to gain the greatest mechanical advantage. These IDS set up are often a a great disadvantage mechanically. Now the video was for a ship of a different construction than the Magnum. So there is going to be some different interpretation as to how to fit the parts.

 

[Wayne]

Looks like the Sprue is on the wrong side of the horn to be used as a spring.. You want that horn up and away from the hinge, not pressed down towards the hinge. Just my 2 cents. We are usually working in THIN flight surfaces.

 

[2MUCH2DO]

So looking at a fresh kit, it is indeed maybe 0.5mm difference, but its also not a sprue, that is a purposefully injected feature, the sprues for that part are at either end of it. I'll wait until the pockets are filed out after I get my shorter control rods to see what is possible. This also checks with servo rahmen's assembly pictures and video.

see here. and honestly I'm not trying to contradict anyone who has done this before, just trying to figure it out:

and several good photos here: https://zeller-modellbau.com/servos...245-ids-mono-typ-2-mini-mit-lager-kunststoff/

Of course I would say they they have the damned control rods upside down with the features in the barrels for the rib as evidence. Merp...

 

[Konrad]

It is a sprue as you will see that the other sprue look the same. Anyway take a look at the thread posted earlier to see the issue with that sprue/spring.

Some other installation concerns.

 

[2MUCH2DO]

Thanks guys, it does make sense to me to turn it around, and I liked reading the reference to CA vs epoxy

 

[Wayne]

I remember thinking they were springs when I fist got them in. But looking at the geometry of the "horn" it makes me now see it the other way around. I guess it really comes down to the thickness of the flight surface. I think in most of my planes I'd have little room for the springs to start with especially if the wing already requires an 8mm thick servo.

Oddly enough when I look at them I think the takeaway is that the horn can be mounted either direction and still work... depending on the distance to the hinge.

 

[2MUCH2DO]

So new pushrods came today, disappointed that they wont fit with the IDS X08 mono frames, the pushrods are too wide. I suppose I could get them there with sanding, but they are also a different angle in the bend, in fact, they bend the opposite way when you look at the key that goes in the barrel. Also even with all that working hte holes are too big on the horn side so they would always be loose, and the pin may come out. @Wayne , any further suggestions? Should i just try to drill and cut the originals?

 

[Konrad]

Maybe you got the wrong ones. I’ve gotten the short XO-8 arms from Aloft. I will admit that the last time I was there they couldn’t find the stock. So I too need a set of short rods.

 

[2MUCH2DO]

Sigh, the description as linked above clearly does not include x08, so my fault. Im thinking drill holes or give up on ids and just use provided parts.

 

[Konrad]

IDS really is nice! Now if you have a set of sub 2mm drills and a drill press then yes you can make the long rods work. I did this when the shorter rods weren’t available. Key is making a square round hole.

 

[Wayne]

No, my fault. I was not aware of them being different. I was just on their site last night and was not aware of them selling different arms for the smaller IDS units. (I do hate their site! Typical German mess. Why are German sites so horrible?)

We can send you a return label and get you a full refund. Sorry for the error. When I hear back from Florian I'll see if I can get the correct bits for you!

 

[Konrad]

I go into detail in one of the Redshift threads about the push rods.

 

[2MUCH2DO]

First ever ids install complete. This was NOT the airplane to try this on thr first time. It too so much control rod manipulation to make work. And I ended up trimming off the rib on the arm. Did lots of testing by pulling like a dumb gorilla after I used a little mill at work to drill new holes. The wing is just so thin it makes it super hard, bit aileron was fisrt, so flaps should work.

 

[Konrad]

If it works that is great. I think you have the push rod backwards and inverted from what the design intent was. Again if it works that the aim of the project.

You also said that you couldn't fit the aileron spoon (horn) in the aileron. I assemble the spoon with CA. I then thin (often cut the aft cross brace off) the aft end to allow the spoon to fit. I then encapsulate the spoon in the aileron with epoxy. This still ends up with a lot more epoxy bonding area than the classic fiberglass horn supplied.

Do add some adhesive over the micro ledge of the tray.

Are the screw there to keep the adhesive out of the holes?

I like to bring the spoon further away from the hinge for more mechanical advantage. I often allow the the spoon to bump into the airstreem as the air is already turbulent.
Also look to see that there isn't a 3 pivot lock prior to the flaps being fully deployed.

 

[2MUCH2DO]

Yeah it had to go in that way to avoid carving away lots of the top skin. I did go over all those edges with dp460 after. It was such a nightmare to find a way to make it work.

 

[Konrad]

Yep, I'd like to see the OEM lay up the control surface with the pocket for the spoons and abandon the control horn we have had for the last 50 years. It is dated and not very strong ( small bonding area).

A hint I was given while setting up the IDS it to set the linkage at mid travel. Both for the control surface and the the servo output arm. This rarely is the control neutral (in profile) point. Once I understood that the installation became a bit easier to understand. But as you have seen there are still a lot of gotcha points. I hope the threads I linked to earlier covered most of these.

Generally your installation looks good and should result in a very serviceable actuation system.

 

[Pricemo]

Hello all,

Quick question.

What is the best way to remove material from ailerons/flaps for KST LDS Kit for the X08 Servo?

I have a great Dremel 4300 kit, seems like the best option.

Just wondering what bits etc. people have used.

Thanks for any ideas/help.

Steve Price