What's new
Aloft Forums

Welcome to Aloft Forums. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Lele - (Aloft 68)

This is my just completed 2M Eli RES. AUW is 500 grams with a Hacker A10 4/1 reduction drive and 12 x 8.5 prop. Climbs like a rocket.
I think your design is great but a few observations from a recreational flyer. The majority of flights are just a quick climb to 400 feet and then a serene glide back to earth. Min sink is more important than L/D. The F5J 4m carbon wonders may really fly from thermal to thermal and adjust flaps for the perfect speed and airfoil. But for most we just blunder into lift and are thrilled to go up. So for me floaters are the way to go. Low wing loading and slow flying. I have learned that fast climbs are important. Keeps the motor cool and gives a better ratio of time to power on versus power off. Just some thoughts. Tom.
I totally agree with the recreational thing. I also built an Eli and it is a fantastic flier, perhaps my favorite 2m RES.

I like to see these new glider kits from Wayne/Aloft. Great build photos. But I wonder what has happened with the AH-100. Inspired by my Aloft mini Wanderer I just but the 99" version from plans and I really like the size and the way it handles. I think the AH-100 looks to be a real floater.
 
I totally agree with the recreational thing. I also built an Eli and it is a fantastic flier, perhaps my favorite 2m RES.

I like to see these new glider kits from Wayne/Aloft. Great build photos. But I wonder what has happened with the AH-100. Inspired by my Aloft mini Wanderer I just but the 99" version from plans and I really like the size and the way it handles. I think the AH-100 looks to be a real floater.
I had a lot of problems with motors on my ELI. The big 12 inch prop used with the Hacker kept hanging up on the square fuselage. Plus even when folded properly lots of drag. I just slapped an Emax motor on the front and its great. Tons of power and very smooth. If that motor out in the breeze decreased glide performance I don’t notice it. Will maintain altitude on only 20 percent throttle. Not had the guts yet to climb out much past half throttle. Might go strait up.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0784.webp
    IMG_0784.webp
    68 KB · Views: 109
  • IMG_0741.webp
    IMG_0741.webp
    194.2 KB · Views: 78
Don't understand the VERY square RES glider fuselages. OK - I get they want to have lots of interior space, but I just hate the squareness of them. Seems like nearly all of the RES designs do this.

Priorities-
AH-100 is one of sixteen airframes we are currently involved with. And we have plans for 5 or 6 more, and are collaborating on a few others. Also looks like we will be taking on manufacturing and sales for a classic in the thermal glider space (4 current designs), and they have 2 new designs they want to introduce. Currently the AH-100 is #5 in priority. So we should see some action on it soon. Right now the BAM Bam (combat wing), the LeLe (this one) and a modern 'old timer' are the top 3. These planes are much further along in the development process, and or have been flying for a long time and just doing the final kit refinements like writing a build manual. We have models that range from EPP foam, to wood, to full composites in the mix. We also have some new power systems in testing, and that will spawn some cool new models to take advantage of those. And we just started looking into a new complex undertaking that will take some efforts to pull off. We may be small, we may be slow, but we got some cool shit in the works!

p.s. 2 new RES kits are coming to Aloft in the coming months, both are VERY competitive in the class. Looking forward to getting those in. Actually 3, the third is very different for the RES class. Here is a fat clue, want to fly in RES class with ailerons? This third plane can legally do that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Red
Snuck out to do a little building this afternoon.
alpha build - 1.webp


This is the second fuselage I'm building today as I screwed up and put the second bulkhead in backwards on the first, but it will serve as a fuselage for another plane we have in development that I don't think we have shared yet, currently we call it the OldTimer or Oldy as we were going for more of a 50's style for it. The Lele Fuse looks pretty good with it.
oldy - 1.webp


Building 2 in the same afternoon allows me to play around with assembly steps and see what I like better.
experimenting - 1.webp
 
That's a very clever and nice looking fuselage. While you are into mixing wings and fuselages, I'd like to see the AH-100 wing on a scaled up version of this fuselage as an option to the Prelude fiberglass fuselage.

After building quite a few of the modern RES gliders with carbon fiber boom fuselages I built a few 2m vintage gliders including a Riser, Gentle Lady and Drifter, I was impressed by how light and stiff the wood box fuselages like this were. I was so taken by looks of the Aloft Mini Wanderer I decided to plans build the Wanderer 99 modified with electric power, and despite the very heavy and sturdy Wanderer wing and a 2200 mah 3S battery, the AUW was just 50,0 oz (BTW using some nice Aloft balsa and flying film). It is a really nice flying 2.5m glider, and much easier for my old eyes to see than the thin wing pod and boom types.

A kit with a wooden fuselage would likely be less expensive and a good if the Prelude fuselage becomes unavailable or out of stock. Builders would have the choice of a wood fuselage or the Prelude fiberglass fuselage.

I think the modern AH-100 wing on a modern scaled up LeLe fuselage would be a really greater floater that I would like to build even though I have way more gliders than I have time to fly!
 
Last edited:
Yes, the plan is to design a wood fuselage for the AH-100, always has been in my mind. This will allow me to increase the tail moment some, something I think the AH-100 will benefit from. Basically an all around longer fuselage. Longer nose to make CG easier, should be able to drop the AUW a bit.
 
That sounds like a good plan Wayne! Longer nose a plus: These gliders don't need a huge battery or motor for nose weight!
 
We have a wing on the build table but waiting for our custom milled trailing edge stocks to arrive. :) Less sanding for our builders!
 
Come On Wayne >>>>Use the Wood Editor. In addition to grating cheese they are great little sanders and could sand down a TE in no time at all and in addition to scratching my back it is great for sanding CA off my fingers. For you builders here, seriously, these are really nice little sanders and the whimsical description does not do them justice, They use regular sandpaper. The green one uses a piece cut from the short side of an 8 1/2 by 11 sheet and it clamps in, no sticky required. Both have curved front edges that help avoid breaking off ribs and stuff and can sand the inside of curve surfaces. They are by far the best little clamp regular paper small sanders I have ever used . I just ordered two more pairs so I can be ready with my favorite grits. Wishlist: make one more slightly larger version of the green one, colored purple, that fits sandpaper cut off the 11 inch side of the sheet (1/4 sheet version maybe). This builder rates the Wood Editor as the Aloft Product of 2025.

Back to regular programming but I just had to mention this product for builders out there.
 
Will talk with Rafael about a new size cheese grater for you. @RafaelAvila

I don't love sanding trailing edges on these smaller models, and we tend to design around thinner airfoils here, the old school trailing edges are all so tall that you end up doing a lot of sanding. It is one of the little things we can do for our builders.

A customer emailed me and suggested a little electric sander, I picked one up a while back and used it on the fuselage posted earlier. It does make sanding faster, but it may take me awhile to get used to one of those. I prefer one of our sanders with some rough grit paper in it. Oddly a bit more satisfying. The electric sander is very nice for dust control though. 5 stars for that. I like to sand outdoors when there is some wind to deal with the dust.
 
Will talk with Rafael about a new size cheese grater for you. @RafaelAvila

I don't love sanding trailing edges on these smaller models, and we tend to design around thinner airfoils here, the old school trailing edges are all so tall that you end up doing a lot of sanding. It is one of the little things we can do for our builders.

A customer emailed me and suggested a little electric sander, I picked one up a while back and used it on the fuselage posted earlier. It does make sanding faster, but it may take me awhile to get used to one of those. I prefer one of our sanders with some rough grit paper in it. Oddly a bit more satisfying. The electric sander is very nice for dust control though. 5 stars for that. I like to sand outdoors when there is some wind to deal with the dust.
Thanks. Great design.

I was using the suggestion of sanding the TE as an intro to give kudos to the little cheese grater. I loved the fact that the little Wanderer came with a pre shaped TE. There is already a lot of sanding on these models. Electric sanders can be helpful with a good jig but it can be easy to remove wood you can't put back.
 
Come On Wayne >>>>Use the Wood Editor. In addition to grating cheese they are great little sanders and could sand down a TE in no time at all and in addition to scratching my back it is great for sanding CA off my fingers. For you builders here, seriously, these are really nice little sanders and the whimsical description does not do them justice, They use regular sandpaper. The green one uses a piece cut from the short side of an 8 1/2 by 11 sheet and it clamps in, no sticky required. Both have curved front edges that help avoid breaking off ribs and stuff and can sand the inside of curve surfaces. They are by far the best little clamp regular paper small sanders I have ever used . I just ordered two more pairs so I can be ready with my favorite grits. Wishlist: make one more slightly larger version of the green one, colored purple, that fits sandpaper cut off the 11 inch side of the sheet (1/4 sheet version maybe). This builder rates the Wood Editor as the Aloft Product of 2025.

Back to regular programming but I just had to mention this product for builders out there.
yes i can do something personalized for you, can you send me a PV so i can have the idea of what you're looking for?
 
yes i can do something personalized for you, can you send me a PV so i can have the idea of what you're looking for?
Sandpaper seems to come in a standard size of 9 x 11" for whatever reason. ( had assumed it was 8 1/2 x 11 but fortunately I decided to measure a sheet before sending this!)

I like the fact that the larger green one is sized so that a standard 9 x 11 sheet of sandpaper cut across the short 9" side of the paper to fits perfectly and minimizes the waste of sandpaper. (I also love the way it tightly clamps the sandpaper!)

I was thinking a slightly longer sander of the same basic design made to a length designed to use an 11" piece of sandpaper cut from the long side of the sheet would be nice. I think basically the sander would be 2 " longer. I am not sure about the width. I think perhaps 2 1/4" would be a good choice because it would perfectly use a full sheet of sandpaper cut into four pieces and still be easy to handle would be good. I think the rest of the design could be unchanged with the rounded front and tapered back. The rounded front it very nice for sanding across ribs as it is less likely to catch and break a rib. I am pretty sure you know about that!

The color doesn't matter of course, but blue or purple would be cool.

Your advert is humorous to be sure but the video should show someone loading a piece of paper. I kind of though I would have to use the stick on paper and was really pleased to see it was a clamp on design. Very cool.

You folks are doing some real cutting edge design stuff with your laser cutter and 3D printer. I love the gimble protectors I got for my X-20S a couple years ago. Can't wait to try out the wing jointer system on the AJ-100.

I am not sure what "PV" means but I hope I have explained what I was thinking. If you have any more questions please ask. Thanks, Joe aka U2builder
 
Rafael has been working on the prototype and I think we will have a flying report within a week. :)
 
Here is the outcome of our wing stress testing. We thought we saw a bit of flutter on the first death dive from altitude. So we broke out the camera for the next death dive and gave her the beans.
Screenshot 2025-10-16 at 2.56.21 PM.webp

We entered the experimental folding wing mode.

And then Jarron decided to show off with the controls and went for a knife edge pass:
Screenshot 2025-10-16 at 2.57.31 PM.webp
 
  • Wow
Reactions: Red
A quick summary of the flight testing while it is fresh in my head.

CG

At the time of design the Emax motor was our smallest easy to source cheap motor with plenty of thrust for the mission, and many manufacturers of outrunners offer something in this size. I thought I'd be in the ballpark for CG with the battery under the hatch. (I have a long history of building or suggesting smaller motors that many people find too weak for the application, I didn't want to do that again.) Sadly, I was wildly off on the nose and tail moments for setting the CG. The tail moment is kind of short, and the tail is very light. We ended up with the servos near the wing bolt, and the 3S850 battery fully under the wing. Only the motor and tiny ESC were in the nose.

Flight One​

First flight was with 2 weights under the tail to make a nose heavy CG. Figured it would be fine for a first flight. We launched her out for a glide test, and if all felt well, then Jarron would add in the throttle and go for a full flight. This worked out great and we were off flying. She rewarded with pretty good handling, but could use more rudder deflection, and was certainly nose heavy, also the motor brake was not enough to stop the prop. We flew around, caught some thermals, did some ugly loops and generally got a feel for her. Then landed. The CG was so nose heavy that you could pull full elevator at cruise and the nose pretty much stayed put. Yikes! Shocked she could thermal.

Flight Two​

We dialed in a little more rudder via the transmitter, adjusted the ESC brake and added more tail weight moving the CG onto the spar cap. This CG proved to be much better and she now looped nicely. Still nose heavy, but now in the ballpark. We passed her around and got some time on the sticks. I caught a nice thermal that took her from close to the deck upto where I wanted out of the thermal in maybe 25 seconds. Not bad! Jarron caught a thermal that really got him up there.. He bailed after we reminded him he has lost two models by specking them out of vision. She was working really well. I like the rudder to be active enough to induce a barrel roll, and that she did. :)

Time to try to break it in flight. I put her in a big dive, and just as I was pulling out I thought I saw a little flutter from a wing tip. That's not good! I passed the plane off to Jarron and I broke out my camera thinking this is going to be interesting and asked him to do the same. The video and pictures tell the rest of this story. I did not think the wing would fail, but thought it was going to show some flutter. It broke very early into the dive. What the heck happened?

Post Wreck Investigation​

First off - this is why we do destructive testing of our models. This model is not intended to dive straight down, but we know some of you might need to do that to get out of big thermal. We want to find any issues before they are put into production. We were shocked to see this wing fail so easily, not one of us had any concerns prior to it fluttering. It was strong and torsionally felt really good in our hands. All joints were tight and looked good.

After reviewing the structure it looks like the top sheeting was not fully glued to the shear web on this panel. Basically we had failed to fully glue this critical joint! We can actually move the sheeting up and down on the neighboring bays. So may not need any structural changes to fix this issue. Just better attention to the building steps. This is how we learn sometimes.

The fuselage held up great! The only breakage was the wing bolt bulkhead broke. This could easily be ground out and a new one installed if needed. Otherwise, just the tail ripped off when it hit the ground at speed. The tail only broke one support and the control horns. Overall very little damage.

lele prototype opps - 17.webp

Take Away​

I'll be redesigning the fuselage, it will be 100% new. I'm waiting to hear back from a manufacturer, we will be designing around a smaller motor that weighs nearly 50% less, and will allow us to shrink the entire fuselage cross section. Don't worry, still a very affordable motor. I'll lengthen the tail moment and give some more thought to the canopy design as it was a bit of a pain to build. Should be a leaner and cleaner design and well lend itself to both electric and pure glider layouts much better.

A closer look at the wing:
lele prototype opps - 16.webp

lele prototype opps - 19.webp


lele prototype opps - 14.webp
 
  • Like
Reactions: Red
In full size homebuilt aircraft they do load testing before flying by loading the wings with sandbags. Would this be helpful with rc? If the wing was loaded with weight to the appropriate g load before covering you might spot areas that flex more than anticipated and still have a chance to add reinforcements and stiffeners. Might save a lot of time rebuilding. I do admire your gung ho approach of real world testing by just pointing it straight down. 👍
 
Back
Top