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Jart LT Refurb

Nigel

Moderator
It seems I like to buy planes that are in need of refurbishment, or my standards are too high. Either way, I got a Jart!

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There are a few major things I will be doing my best to fix to get this thing flightworthy before Sunset. Biggest concern right now is the bend (not an asymmetrical warp, thankfully) in both the wings (medium bend) and the ailerons, specifically one of them which has probably a half inch of variation along the trailing edge.

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Not too bad on the wings, but the ailerons (or at least one of them) is pretty far gone. Other bits of damage are a slight chunk of of the trailing edge.

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Not totally sure how I'll go about fixing the bend. The ailerons are fairly weak both torsionally and longitudinally, so I could conceivably just glue some carbon in there. Still thinking over the wing. I saw someone repair a twisted fiberglass fuse by slowly heating it and putting it under constant pressure. I'm not sure that will work on the wings as a torsional force is more evenly spread over a tail boom, while I will only be really working on one side of this wing. Also, the construction is glassed-sheeted-foamcore, so while I may be able to shift the disposition of the composites, I don't think I can shift the wood at all. At least the wood will provide some minimal insulation against the foam. Perhaps the composite will be able to overcome the wood and add a little tension into the wing. Not the worst thing, as they aren't super stiff.

Either way, I will end up probably using both some nylon hinges and hinge/gap tape to give myself the best chance at keeping the surfaces centered and drag down at speed.

Other areas of focus - some trailing edge delamination between the skin and wood. Also present on the surfaces. Some canopy fitment issues (I hate trimming canopies), and filling in the charge jack/switch hole. I understand the connivence of the jack, but for the love of god the canopy is right there. Anyways...

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Some minor chipping along the elevator. Considering covering the exposed wood with some tow for a little rigidity and a nice seal against any moisture. Also a picture of the elevator servo and the forward incidence pin. I will probably add a hardwood rod between the two to make sure I don't sandwich my fuse on a rough landing. Maybe the trailing pin too, now that I think about it.

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I will also probably end up trimming this bit of mold flashing (I think that's the right term) off the elevator. One of the last things that bugs me is the rudder. As you can see, the gap grows from the base to the tip, and when hinged, it will lift above the rudder nubby bit. Maybe a little 3D printed shim on the rudder, or the fuse. Can't imagine a gap that grows in size as it reaches the tail of the aircraft does me any kind of favors.

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A little picture of the bottom with some nice tape to protect the belly. I am slightly afraid to pull that tape up, and probably won't.

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It seems I like to buy planes that are in need of refurbishment, or my standards are too high. Either way, I got a Jart!
You and me both!

But that actually looks good. I find that heat is my friend when dealing with warps. I like to use the kitchen oven rather than a heat gun on the ailerons as I get more control of the heat. I set the oven at about 200°F to 225°F. If the part is too long I use a wooden handle to keep the door open and not add stress to the part. After I've cooked the part I then take it out and hold the part straight and in tension until it cools. (I might preload in the opposite direction). This works for both wood and epoxy laminated parts.

There is no sub spar in the wing trailing edge?

Love the idea of spreader bars.

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love the jarts! hope you bring it to sunset.
That's the hope! This is going to be a bit of a speed-refurbishment at this point.
You and me both!

But that actually looks good. I find that heat is my friend when dealing with warps. I like to use the kitchen oven rather than a heat gun on the ailerons as I get more control of the heat. I set the oven at about 200°F to 225°F. If the part is too long I use a wooden handle to keep the door open and not add stress to the part. After I've cooked the part I then take it out and hold the part straight and in tension until it cools. (I might preload in the opposite direction). This works for both wood and epoxy laminated parts.

There is no sub spar in the wing trailing edge?

Love the idea of spreader bars.

View attachment 10617

Ah, the oven is a good idea. Does the heat cause any issues with the skin? Should convection be on? I am slightly worried as whenever I have taken to heating composites the weave tends to become visible, I'd imagine from simply too much heat. This glass and epoxy so far does not strike me as high quality, so I think it may be even more sensitive to too much heat. Also unsure if those temps will effect the foam core, as it is currently exposed on both the trailing edge of the wing and leading edge of the surface.
 
Good question about weave bleed through. I see where most epoxy is stable up to 120°F to 160F°. There are some that go as high as 400°F. So if surface finish is a concern then test or creep up on the temp.
 
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