Introduction, Laser Cutting, CNC Routing, and 3D Printing

[Spookyeng]

Picked up a Anycubic photon zero for $99. Pretty impressed with the resolution. Dealing with the resin isn't that big a deal I've got a couple pickle jars with some mean green degreaser and a toothbrush and a little DIY from board box I made to cure. 5, 15, 30 epoxy resin has a thousand times worse smell like the resin smelled from this doesn't even bother me and it doesn't permeate my office at all. There's quite a significant difference in slicing these verses filament soak still kind of wrapping my head around this. The interesting thing too is that it does an entire layer at the same time so percentage of fill or how many things you have printing out at the same time doesn't make any difference to how long the prints going to take. The single factor of how long are prints going to take is how tall your model is. So you could be doing one model and let's say that takes two hours. Well if you can fit 10 of those on your bed next to each other it's still going to take 2 hours. And if you build a piece with 2% and fill that's going to take exactly the same amount of time as 100% infill.

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Sorry, I have not been on it a awhile. Congrats on the resin printer, I know I like my AnyCubic Photon Mono SE. Looks like you are getting great results already! All the best.

Jason

 

[BackWoodsFlyer]

Welcome!
If you’re looking for a cool printer project, this design has recently come out and is quite frankly incredible (My mind went to a more falcon or kite bodyshape for a slope soaring version ?)
It’s on the top of my want list but I can’t afford a printer just for a single project so for now it’s a dream. I live near Aloft here in CA but hope to move to ID soon, if I do I’ll give you a holler!

cool shop too btw!

EAGLE | Planeprint – very light 3d printable rc planes

Planeprint EAGLE is a lifelike replica of a real golden eagle. Discover our rc airplanes for 3d printing with the planeprint-1-wall-printing process!

de.planeprint.com

 

[Wayne]

Pretty neat, but I must admit I'm pretty much off of 3D printed planes that try to be light. They have a lifespan of exactly one mistake.

Now if it is a 3D plane that is not trying to be light, then I am interested. The Nucking Futz comes to mind as a decent 3D printed plane simply because they don't try to be as light as possible. I can sneeze on it and it probably will not break into 100 new pieces. And I can use cheap PLA if I want. That LW PLA is not very cheap.

Before you take on a 3D printed plane, I strongly advise that you have a good understanding of your printer and its calibration. A poorly setup printer will produce a very poor plane. Trust me, I jumped into a plane early on with my first printer.. It flew for a few seconds, maybe a minute..

 

[Spookyeng]

Welcome!
If you’re looking for a cool printer project, this design has recently come out and is quite frankly incredible (My mind went to a more falcon or kite bodyshape for a slope soaring version ?)
It’s on the top of my want list but I can’t afford a printer just for a single project so for now it’s a dream. I live near Aloft here in CA but hope to move to ID soon, if I do I’ll give you a holler!

cool shop too btw!

EAGLE | Planeprint – very light 3d printable rc planes

Planeprint EAGLE is a lifelike replica of a real golden eagle. Discover our rc airplanes for 3d printing with the planeprint-1-wall-printing process!

de.planeprint.com

Thanks, the 3D printed planes are very interesting. However for me and what I use the 3D printer for, not something that I would do honestly. I mainly use my 3D printer for prototype and engineering type parts that I might use in my airplanes or helicopters. Hopefully I will get a sailplane one day and have the opportunity to design something for it. I also only print in PETG and that can be problematic for these thin wall 3D prints. PLA is a great material and I used it a lot, but parts that are subject to heat, there is a high probability to warp and deform over time. I tend to stick with one type of material from one manufacture for consistency in settings and PETG Pro from Matterhackers and COEX have been working well for me and PETG can tolerate heat much better than PLA. But I guess you could print in PLA and paint with a UV resistant paint for a little better heat tolerance.

If you move to Idaho and are near Meridian/Boise area please don't hesitate to reach out.

 

[Spookyeng]

Just curious why my last post needs moderator approval to post, don't remember seeing that before. I was replying to BackWoodsFlyer.

 

[thenated0g]

Been printing a bunch of stuff for my board game friends. Even made up a dice tower on the laser.

 

[Wayne]

Just curious why my last post needs moderator approval to post, don't remember seeing that before. I was replying to BackWoodsFlyer.

It had a link in the response, and to cut down on spammers here we have had to flag any posts with a link when the users account is still pretty new.

Been using some Colorfab HT recently with good results. I like the high heat resistance it offers with little added complexity to the print process.

 

[Spookyeng]

It had a link in the response, and to cut down on spammers here we have had to flag any posts with a link when the users account is still pretty new.

Been using some Colorfab HT recently with good results. I like the high heat resistance it offers with little added complexity to the print process.

Thanks Wayne, that makes sense.

I have been wanting to give ColorFabb_HT a try and have heard good things about it. Good to hear that you have been using it and are having good results!

 

[Wayne]

It isn't cheap, but so far it is working well. I have not done a ton of testing just yet.

 

[thenated0g]

I have seen a couple builds where guys fiberglass the plane once the 3d print is done, but i dont know if that does much other than just holding everything in place when it breaks.

 

[Wayne]

One of the guys here is building up a 3D printed Savage Bobber. This will be interesting as I have a wood version of the same plane at a similar size. I'll get him to post up some details here. It is coming out pretty darn nice so far.

 

[BackWoodsFlyer]

Thanks, the 3D printed planes are very interesting. However for me and what I use the 3D printer for, not something that I would do honestly. I mainly use my 3D printer for prototype and engineering type parts that I might use in my airplanes or helicopters. Hopefully I will get a sailplane one day and have the opportunity to design something for it. I also only print in PETG and that can be problematic for these thin wall 3D prints. PLA is a great material and I used it a lot, but parts that are subject to heat, there is a high probability to warp and deform over time. I tend to stick with one type of material from one manufacture for consistency in settings and PETG Pro from Matterhackers and COEX have been working well for me and PETG can tolerate heat much better than PLA. But I guess you could print in PLA and paint with a UV resistant paint for a little better heat tolerance.

If you move to Idaho and are near Meridian/Boise area please don't hesitate to reach out.

What do you use to create a 3-D model for your Prototypes? I’ve have a bit of an “invention” that a prototype could very effectively be made out of 3-D printed plastic, but I’m not sure how to make the design. I’ve heard fusion 360?

 

[thenated0g]

Fusion360 is amazing and free. And i would say more importantly, it has a ton of great tutorials on youtube made by the community.

 

[BackWoodsFlyer]

I have seen a couple builds where guys fiberglass the plane once the 3d print is done, but i dont know if that does much other than just holding everything in place when it breaks.

That is actually an interesting concept; instead of using a hot wire cut foam core to set up a mold? to create a fiberglass shell around, you could create an extremely thin 3-D printed form for the same purpose, but allowing you to make complex airfoils with twist/incidence change, varied airfoils root to tip etc. ? I’m not sure what acetone does to fiberglass, but you may even be able to melt the printed plastic out once the shell is complete to make it even lighter.

 

[BackWoodsFlyer]

Fusion360 is amazing and free. And i would say more importantly, it has a ton of great tutorials on youtube made by the community.

Thanks Nate!
-Nic

 

[Spookyeng]

What do you use to create a 3-D model for your Prototypes? I’ve have a bit of an “invention” that a prototype could very effectively be made out of 3-D printed plastic, but I’m not sure how to make the design. I’ve heard fusion 360?

I have to apologize for my delays in replying, I am not getting any email notifications when you guys reply. I don't look at my notifications in the bottom right hand corner often, so I will put that in my cross-check now to look at how I can set-up email notifications.

For me, I use Solidworks and that is what I have been using for as long as I have done 3D modeling and prototyping. I am a long time Draftsight user for 2D CAD, so the transition to Solidworks was very intuitive and easy. It's not that expensive with an annual subscription to the EAA. When you get an EAA membership, part of your membership is a Solidworks license to the Student Edition and that has everything I need. If you are veteran, I believe you can get a license for free, but I would have to check on that.

I have tried Fusion 360 and its a great program, just prefer Solidworks honestly, maybe because I came from Draftsight. Tons of great tutorials for Solidworks as well, Both are great programs and you can't go wrong with either. Thanks.

Jason

 

[Old_Salt]

For me, I use Solidworks and that is what I have been using for as long as I have done 3D modeling and prototyping. I am a long time Draftsight user for 2D CAD, so the transition to Solidworks was very intuitive and easy. It's not that expensive with an annual subscription to the EAA. When you get an EAA membership, part of your membership is a Solidworks license to the Student Edition and that has everything I need. If you are veteran, I believe you can get a license for free, but I would have to check on that.

I have tried Fusion 360 and its a great program, just prefer Solidworks honestly, maybe because I came from Draftsight. Tons of great tutorials for Solidworks as well, Both are great programs and you can't go wrong with either. Thanks.

Jason

Hi Jason,

Your comment about SolidWorks caught my attention. It looks like a student version is available for $20 (possibly per year) to veterans and active duty folks. It has been my experience that student versions are often crippled. Still for non-commercial work it is probably a great deal.

I will look into it further.

https://www.solidworks.com/sites/default/files/2018-01/EDU-MVPProgram.pdf

Regards,

Paul

 

[Spookyeng]

Hi Jason,

Your comment about SolidWorks caught my attention. It looks like a student version is available for $20 (possibly per year) to veterans and active duty folks. It has been my experience that student versions are often crippled. Still for non-commercial work it is probably a great deal.

I will look into it further.

https://www.solidworks.com/sites/default/files/2018-01/EDU-MVPProgram.pdf
Regards,

Paul

Hello Paul,

I would believe that is would be $20.00 annually, which is a great deal. I pay $45.00 annually for my license with my EAA membership and still think it a great deal. But I will always have an EAA membership, so I don't use the veteran option, even though I am retired military. I don't mind paying the extra $25.00

When it comes to capability of the Student addition, I feel Solidworks student edition will give you everything you need and more. I have not been limited in any of my designs yet and my designs are becoming more detailed as I continue to learn, I still have a ton more to learn though. Please bear in mind that I have no experience with other student editions and your design needs may be different from mine. I can always provide some rendering of the stuff I have done and here to help, should anybody decide they want to give Solidworks a try. I really like it. Thank you and talk soon.

Jason

 

[rcsoar4fun]

That is actually an interesting concept; instead of using a hot wire cut foam core to set up a mold? to create a fiberglass shell around, you could create an extremely thin 3-D printed form for the same purpose, but allowing you to make complex airfoils with twist/incidence change, varied airfoils root to tip etc. ? I’m not sure what acetone does to fiberglass, but you may even be able to melt the printed plastic out once the shell is complete to make it even lighter.

I am playing around with using some 3D printed pieces for plugs from which to pull a traditional mold, tooling and some dissolvable molds.

Printing out a piece(s) from which to pull a mold saves some time. I have pulled some molds using Ultracal 30, it is quick, cheap and easy.

The real power comes in the ability to create tooling that exactly matches the plug/mold. For instance, I printed a jig that exactly matches the inverse of a tailboom mount.

Finally, I am playing around with using PVA to mold some parts. PVA can be covered in glass/carbon/epoxy then dissolved with water.

 

[thenated0g]