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Horus sticks onto a M-9 Gimbal (Problem Solved)

Konrad

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Like I don't have enough switches on my X9E!

I'm trying to add the Horus stick mounted switch to my M-9 hall effect gimbals.
https://alofthobbies.com/horus-two-position-switched-stick-end.html
https://alofthobbies.com/m9-gimbal.html

Before I start machining the Gimbal I'd like to ask if anybody else has had these issues and if so what was the solution?

The Horus stick body has a 4mm bore. The M-9 has a 5mm mounting diameter on the stick, with a 4mm thread from adjusting stick length. OK, so things won't fit.

With the Horus switched stick there is an included mounting stud that has the proper 4mm diameter. The issue is that this mounting stud is to be threaded into the yoke of the gimbal with a 6mm thread. My concern is that there isn't enough edge margin in the gimbal's yoke to allow for this thread. I fear that the yoke will split if one tries to thread it!

Is there enough material in the M-9 yoke to allow for threading the stick stud? Am I missing another solution? I was thinking of reaming the bore of the stick to 5mm but the momentary switch gets in the way. And I can't figure out how to get the wires out of the way.

Right now I'm thinking of pulling the mounting stick stud from the M-9 and turning down the 5mm boss to 4mm. I'll also have to remove the 4mm thread.

I have to say that RC Studio's stick accessories seem to be better thought out than this FrSky Horus switched stick. For one thing RC Studio's wires are of a much thinner gage making it easy to thread the wires down the stick. Also using the longer threaded portion of the gimbal stud seems much more robust.
https://alofthobbies.com/rc-studio-custom-function-stick-ends.html


All the best,
Konrad
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Konrad

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Ok, Just do it!

Not wanting to go down to the shop, I dug out my Unimat lathe from my childhood. These were to be the 3D printer of the 50's and 60's. No not the Kitchen Aid but the Unimat! It didn't happen as it took too many support accessories to be able to actually finish a project.

I pulled out the pressed in mounting stud from the M-9 and turned down the shank to have a 4mm diameter. I then cut off the 4mm threaded part of the stud. And finally drilled the through bore to 2.4mm diameter. Everything fit. If I do this again I'd cut the stud to 4.05mm diameter as the bore in the Horus stick is 4.1mm. 0.1mm clearance is a bit much.

No sooner do I fix a problem, I've created a new problem! The Horus sticks will not allow the stick guards to slide over them. I drilled the guards a 33/64 diameter (don't ask why I had a 33/64 drill. I'm sure its some threading size). DÃjá vu all over again! Another problem the stick switch is now unprotected in the X9E soft case.

All the best,
Konrad
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Konrad

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I see that my highly precise stud puller didn't up load (Snap On Tools has nothing on me!)
It is made up of a sleeve (2 nuts) that slip fit over the stud. Then one adds a 4 mm nut that engages the 4mm thread of the stud.
Simply thread down the 4mm nut against the sleeve and the stud will be pulled out of the gimbal. This adds no stress to the gimbal bearings and doesn't damage any parts of the gimbal.

While making these changes to the X9E I notice that the original gimbals have this spring loaded adjustment that allows the gimbal assembly to rock in the mounting plate. I found no mention of this feature in the X9E manual. Why is it here? It looks to just add cost to the gimbal. Both in the manufacture and in the assembly of the gimbal.

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nadt770

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Hi Konrad,

If I remember correctly it allows the stick to lean in or out to fit your finger length better.
 

Wayne

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When the radio was in development I had asked if they could make the gimbals adjustable on angle.. I was not clear enough on what the desire was (rotation) and instead we got this little rocking ability.

Konrad, We have a nice ling stick protector here for you.. :) Bring that radio by and we can make some custom units up for you.

We are looking to get some little adapters made up for the three axis stick ends for the "normal" gimbals. I think they might work for these RC Studio stick ends also. We have the parts drawn up, but have not had any produced yet.
 

Konrad

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I did like the ability to rotate the gimbal assemblies on the Multiplex Royal radios to more closely match the thumb arc.

Ok, I might be able to make it up next week. Might be a good time to take some vacation time!?

All the best,
Konrad
 
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Wayne

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Vacation? You work?? LOL :)

We can drop them in the mail.. Just not sure how well they will fit your radio. Actually, can you give me the length above the gimbal ring, and the diameter of your sticks?
 

Konrad

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LOL, I was thinking you might want to find a reason not to be in the shop when I show up.
You know work is a four letter word! I avoid it if possible.

The height above the gimbal face is 52mm. The diameter is 11.5mm with a protrution of 1.5mm for the push button switch. So minimum workable diameter being 13mm , and a practical diameter being 14.5mm.

All the best,
Konrad
 

Konrad

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There is something about finding bent gimbals that just ruins your day at the flying field!

I just got these new tall stick protectors. These are great for the soft TX cases and the use of longer sticks or in my case with the stick mounted switches.

I think these are a special order part, available only from Aloft Hobbies. Ask for Chris.

All the best,
Konrad

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dariushz1

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So I have installed one of these gimbal ends on my X12S but could not find where you plug it into the encore board? Can you show me where you plugged yours in, the only option I could think of is to solder it in place of one of the existing switches on the eTX.
 

dariushz1

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Actually the gimbal end I have has two switches one toggle switch at the end and a momentary switch on the shaft of the stick so it would require two separate places to plug in
 

Konrad

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How populated is your switch board? I plugged mine into any of the free ports. I'll take a photo next time I'm in the shop.

P.S.
OPS, I see you are dealing with Horus X12S radio. Sorry I'm of no help, never bothered to learn that radio. So I can't tell or show you where or what to do.
 

dariushz1

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Konrad, thanks for sharing the info, unfortunately as you said the X12S board is very different from the X9E, it’s nice that the X9E offers vacant slots for additional switches, much like my old Multiplex Profi 4000, the only thing I can think of is to move or duplicate some of the switches at the stick ends
 
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