Hanger 9 1/5th scale Mustang.

[Txmustangflyer]

The retracts. Just a tip...don't accidently grab your 3s ignition battery and plug it into an eflite programmer...if you do, you'll end up spending 245 bucks on a setup to control the gear and gear doirs because for some odd reason, the eflg1000 programmer has been discontinued by eflite...

 

[Txmustangflyer]

When nobody else had them, Sierra Giants did. Their landing gear wheels look right at home.

 

[Txmustangflyer]

Firewall plug done. Ready to sheath with cf plate

 

[Txmustangflyer]

The first (read the easy one) cf plate is in. CF dust tastes like crap. No matter where I tap, no hollow sound. Nothing but solid structure. Back of plate was 100 percent covered with 10 ml of epoxy.

 

[Txmustangflyer]

A lot done since the last post.

The carburetor notch is just about finished.

 

[Txmustangflyer]

More

 

[Txmustangflyer]

During a hold in place check, realized that not a whole lot of cowl cutting is going to have to happen. Engine will sit 23 mm off the firewall. Front of cylinder, and spark plug/wire. This is with the full cowl sitting in place..Looks like a ton of room, starts getting snug when the engine is finally in.

 

[Txmustangflyer]

So, life intervened for a day, then work. I didn't get quite as far as I wanted. I'd hoped to get the firewall drilled and engine mounting set up. Realized I did not have a 6 mm drill bit..that nixed that. I had started work on the cockpit, the JP warbirds cockpit came in, realized his panel would not fit, and got tied up trying to modify the h9 panel with some of Jiri's goodies. Still more to do on that but its 95 percent.
One of the dogs knocked the canopy frame off the tool tray while I was taking a break, it shattered in 9 pieces, no repairing it. A replacement is back ordered. All in all, I got a lot done, but had some major set backs so am disappointed with progress.

She will fly, eventually. But, next winter shes going to get an overhaul.

On the flip side, while away from home for work, I've been searching out everything I can on a number of subjects. One of those is scale V12's.

Not for this mustang, no. Most of the ones I've found are only in the price range of someone with a mid 6 figure income...with one possible, exception.

A one man company in Australia, basically a machine shop, who makes rc engines in his spare time as a side business, has developed a 2 cycle, glow, v12 for 1/5th scale. Passed that information on to Adrian over at CHignition to see if I could get a coupe of wheels turning.
Last I heard from Adrian, he was in contact with Phillip, and was trying to negotiate distribution of Philtech engines here in the US, including the V12. Adrian would do glow to gas conversions on them prior to sale.

I've also put Doc G, of vogelsang aeroscale fame, onto the JMB P38 Lightning as well as the rest of JMB offerings from down under. Doc G is a US dealer for Roto and Volach engines...Those wheels didn't just turn..there was tire smoke involved. Doc G may become a US distributor for JMB ARF kits.
Thete just might be a P38 in my future yet.

 

[Hill Hobbit]

Hi Tx, regarding your flaps, you’re into full house glider territory there! If your servo horns started at 90 degrees to the case, there’s no way you’ll ever get big flap throw. What you need to do is offset the servo neutral towards the wing t.e., and move the servo horn itself 1 spline at least towards the t.e. as well. The pushrods will then need shortening quite a bit.
You won’t be using up flap at all, so your servos will only need to be rotating in the one direction. Offsetting the servo using the radio is the way to do it and lets you use way more servo rotation to give you the flap throw you’re after.
If you use really long servo arms you will only get more slop and low torque.

 

[Txmustangflyer]

1. I won't need big flap throw. Not sure what the actual incidence is at full flap per rhe instructions, but I'd be surprised if its over 80 degrees.

The flaps, as they are hinged, wouldn't move upward if I wanted to.

I'm a little confused on your post. What I want is scale movement. The servo arms are the arms that came with the servos...for now. I've ordered aluminum arms from Wayne for the ailerons and elevators as when those servos were pulled from the shelf there was no consistency in the hardware as on no two servo arms were exactly alike. Thats an issue that had to be resolved so those will be replaced with cnc aluminum servo arms. The one other set of arms that will also go to aluminum arms are the inner gear door servos, simply for consistency of movement. The inner doors are as big as my hand, they also aren't balsa or ply...my guess is a composite layup, but tgey are on the heavy side. I don't trust plastic servo arms there as a result. I think they'll flex under the weight plus aerodynamic force against the doors, so those will also be changed for aluminum.
I'll be setting incidence with my xicoy. I didn't get pictures of ot but the Xicoy cg scale setup with incidence meters came in..super nice. Going to try it out on the wife's trainer first to get the procedure for use down. From what I've read, its going to make dialing cg's in very easy. Both her plane and the mustang, will start out dead on at the design recommended cg. Incidences will be spot on as well. The Xicoy is that accurate.

 

[Hill Hobbit]

Tx, I was trying to explain to you the proper way to get substantially more flap throw than you’ve got at the moment. If you asked Konrad the engineer, I’m pretty certain he would say exactly the same as I did. It’s simply the way it has to be done, whether you want 60 degrees or more.
Good luck.
cheers

 

[Hill Hobbit]

Tx, I just found the required full down flap throw in the manual is 72mm from neutral. I am pretty sure you won’t get that unless you offset the servo and the servo horn on the splines. This is common practice.
Cheers

 

[Txmustangflyer]

Tx, I just found the required full down flap throw in the manual is 72mm from neutral. I am pretty sure you won’t get that unless you offset the servo and the servo horn on the splines. This is common practice.
Cheers

You'd be right. The problem I have with the servo arm at the moment for the flaps is that the arms that came with the servos aren't long enough to not have interference issues with the servo cover. Even centered, the linkage touches the servo cover on both the flaps and elevators. So until the linkage can clear I can't do much. I'll get better pix of that when home again.

Understand, I have not done anything with length of travel, direction, or deflection yet. Its basically hooked up to keep the control surfaces from flopping around as I work on it. When everything is together and I go to set deflection, etc, is when all of that will be taken care of

 

[Txmustangflyer]

Be home on the 9th to continue this saga, but, there is still progress...of a sort.

The spinner dilemma:

Origionally, I had searched around for a spinner, first, truturn, then dave brown, etc. Raf is 3d printing one for me to try out, as well. (If you see this, Rafael, keep going on it.)
But, thanks to rc modelling groups world wide, I found one. Let me describe the issue.

At one time, tru-turn had options to how their spinners mounted. A. Adapter and screw through tip of cone, or b. Perimeter screws into back plate at base. Now you get just a. (Sad)
Dave browns are the same way, sort of.

This is a problem as to use them, the prop bolt has to be a center drilled and tapped so the screw needed can screw into the hex head of the prop bolt.

1. There isn't one made for a zenoah thats long enough at 70 mm (they max at 50)
2. Vibration would dislodge cone base from back plate all the freaking time...zenoahs vibrate...a lot. (See cf reinforcement of firewall...yup, thats why)

At the same time I messaged Raf about 3d printing one, I had posts up in 4 different facebook groups looking for an overseas spinner source in either the UK, Europe, or Australia. Low and behold. Phil Clark, owner of www.fighteraces.co.uk replies back "I can make it."
(Sigh...here we go)
I give the details. 5.5 inch, 4 blade, notched for varioprop with blades at 15.5 mm, blade chord at intersect 1.5 inches (just shy of it, but close enough that it makes no difference)
He says, yup, take a few weeks, but on it...
I go look at pictures..its a perimeter mount..(ok..wait a sec...its just what I asked for)
So, I'll have Raf's spinner (Wayne, if it works, you need to offer em for sale..seriously..perimeter mount spinners are getting more scarce than ever...make em to order) and Phil's.
I'll test raf's on an engine stand..if it can hold up to the G-62's vibration on the ground, I'll let Raf know.

But, yeah, Phil has been the UK version of Wayne in regards to the spinner. Top notch. Carbon fiber cone, aluminum back plate.

www.fighteraces.co.uk

 

[Txmustangflyer]

Now, the other, missing, piece...the exhaust.

This is yet to be a happy ending...

Origionally, I intended to use a Jtec kit specific, wrap around for the hanger 9 mustang..I was told due to engine mods, it wouldn't fit..I do the firewall modification, hold the engine in place to look things over (4 months of emails back and forth at this point trying to come up with an alternate solution..) Email back and say, umm, yeah it will, just need a clearance in muffler for throttle linkages, and give specifics on where and what measurement..(another month if emails) all total, over 60 emails back and forth...key growing irritation..
When someone gives specific location to remove a 1.5 inch square if material from a certain location, said exhaust maker/company owner should either a. Reply with, ok, heres the cost, or b. That won't work, because..Its a custom exhaust, I know it takes extra time, you offer the service for x amount per hour, don't hem and haw about it, give me a straight answer.
Finally, frustration and irritation won. After being a loyal Jtec customer for YEARS because of the custom service when needed, and the fact they are good exhaust, I had had enough..my last email was not nice...at all..I basically told him, that at that point, I would rather go to home depot, get copper tubing, brazing wire, and make my own before I would use a Jtec exhaust again.
Bisson now has my money. Lance, at Bisson has been nothing but up front, and helpful. Although he has the same issue as other rc suppliers (can't get raw materials when he needs to) he understood the situation, made recommendations, I took those recommendations stuck the engine in position, and knew he was right.
So a modified Bisson wrap around is on order, the modification is clocking the flange a bit to lift the muffler up enough to clearance the throttle and choke.

Its exhaust, not rocket science, nor a museum masterpiece. It doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to work. PERIOD Unless the cowl is off..its not going to be seen for chrissake. I don't care if its polished or the welds look absolutely perfect, it just needs to get the burnt stuff out the freaking plane.

Ok, rant over.

6 more weeks until I have the exhaust...(breathe Troy, breathe...)

 

[Txmustangflyer]

Then, theres the last "factory" (wth were they thinking,) issue to deal with and thats the mounting of the horizontal stabs. I did it per the manual and its been nagging at me...I don't like it, and I don't trust it. If I can't trust it, then I won't fly it, and thats not acceptible.

Their method: Anti rotation tab near leading edge if the stab is ok..you thread a 3 mm bolt in and it goes through the tab into a ply block with a blind nut..thats good.
Where it may go south is this. At the tube there is SUPPOSED to be a balsa block below the tube, right under the bottom sheeting...it was supposed to be x distance from fuselage edge of stab, and y distance from leading edge. You blind drill at the mark..I do so (miss block and tube...crap) so I go hunting with a very fine pin, looking for said block (almost an inch off from directions. Get it drilled. The tube is your typical aluminum tube, typical wall thickness, they then inserted a 1/32nd thick plastic "liner" inside of it. This is supposed to act like one of those nylon locking nuts...(ummm) you drill that hole into the tube undersized then tap with a 3x.5 tap...the tube is supposed to lock the screw in...(ummmno) theres insufficient wall thickness to get any freaking decent amount of thread in that hole whatsoever)
So, basically, over time, flights, etc, that hole gets wallowed out, and the stab flutters, and crash.
Nuh uh.
The Fix: going to have to do surgery. The balsa block is getting deep sixed, the short 3mm screw, also deep sixed. The balsa block will be replaced with 1/8th ply above and below the tube. Above the tube there will be a blind nut inserted into that piece of ply. To insure the blind nut does not walk out, the block will be laminated with cf plate drilled at bolt diameter, making sure the blind nut stays put, absolutely.
Once all of that is cured, I'll slide the tube in, mark it, and drill all the way through..the screw will go through the bottom block, through the tube, engaging the blind nut in the top block, with a touch of torque, this will cause the blocks to put a bit of pressure on the tube..secure, no chance of flutter...still removeable to get to the servos and for transport.

What I don't get. They did it the right way at the antirotation tab..why do a half baked job at the tube? It makes absolutely ZERO sense. The bolts are the same size meaning they have the blind nuts. The formers etc are 1/8th ply..Why do decent structure every where else and fubar the stab? The one critical component to control aircraft pitch, trim and fly stable..you cheap out? Ummm..hello!
We don't build them to crash them....wait...Wayne does. I think he does it on purpose...

Rant over

 

[Txmustangflyer]

Hill Hobbit.
You can see the old linkage with included servo arm in the first picture.

The second shows the new servo arm.

No interference issue at full flap travel on the new arm.

The last picture is at full available travel, well beyond 72 degrees.

 

[kenp51d]

It is coming along. I enjoy building and don't get in any kind of hurry. It is the pleasure of the journey

Ken

 

[Txmustangflyer]

Tonight was the wife's trainer. Its about half way there. Tomorrow, back on the mustang to get engine mounting done. Then some measurements for Lance at Bisson.

 

[Konrad]

The wife only gets a breakfast stand to build her airplane?

On the Stang flaps, I have some concerns. Is the hook up per the plans? Do the plans go into linkage detail? I see what looks like a linkage geometry that limits the downward motion of the flap (3 pivots in a line). I also see that it looks like you are only using about 30% of the servo travel.

If the manual doesn’t go into linkage details I might be able to draw up a cartoon that covers some of areas of concern.