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Hanger 9 1/5th scale Mustang.

Interested in seeing one of those
I'll post either an unboxing of prop or lots of pictures. There is "some assembly required" lol as it's better to ship it apart. So there will be a mini build section on the prop itself. I'm hoping the engine will be back from Performance by then too but doubtful so chances are, the pictures will be before drilling for the hub.
It really is a very nice setup, and Christian makes 2, 3, and 4 blade hubs for just about any engine displacement and blades in diameters up to 36 inches total.
As Solo Propellor has lost their blade supplier, it leaves only the Vario prop for this kind of a setup.

If any of you do decide to invest in a varioprop setup. Its VERY important to remember the max rpms listed on the Ramoser site are UNLOADED rpm..
for those that don't know what that means, its in flight..on the ground a prop is straining to move the plane to some degree..even sitting still at idle..it begins to unload during the take off roll and unloads completely at WOT in in flight.
A varioprop on a gas or glow engine max RPM is 6300 due to engine vibration.
On an equivalent electric engine max RPM is 7100. Electrics are smooth..they produce the same power and torque at all rpm. so their power curve is as flat and straight as a board..if its rated at 6 hp..its 6hp at 1 rpm all the way to it maxes out. Same with torque.

Now, I've always been "lighter is better" in terms of RC..but there are guys running 4 8s packs in planes...to me..thats a LOT of weight. Most gas rc airframes I would think would be rather stressed with that much weight..even at the CG during landing..I wonder if thats why I see a lot of electric conversions have gear issues in vids on youtube. Not knocking electrics by any means..if an airframe is purpose built for electric power they are very trouble free. One of the first hanger 9s flying was an electric conversion..it later crashed.
 
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On many forums I have been called crazy, or clueless when it comes to rc engines. An engine is an air pump. Whether its two cycle or four cycle it has to adhere to the rules of flow dynamics. I don't know much when it comes to how to use flow dynamics in regards to engines, but I do know a bit about cylinder heads, cams, cranks, pistons, and displacement.
There are a number of ways to increase the displacement of an engine without having to bore oversized. There are also a number of ways to increase the compression of an engine. Cylinder head gasket thickness, stroke length and so on. In the case of an rc two cycle, compression can be bumped in two ways. Lengthening the stroke, and reducing the thickness of the cylinder gasket. this reduces the space that opens up between the piston and the combustion chamber at the bottom of the stroke, also making the space smaller between the piston and combustion chamber at TDC, increasing compression. Doing this makes a couple of things mandatory. The cdi hall sensor position must be altered. Not much, but some. as the spark timing must be changed to allow for the longer stroke.
The other things Performance is doing is a change to the piston dome profile...the change in stroke means the piston won't drop below the exhaust port as much..so it has to be changed so the piston itself doesn't restrict exhaust flow. How much that change is..no clue, but it depends on the change in stroke. I also know the ports are being port matched to stock zenoah gaskets, and the ports are being smoothed. Better flow, better throttle response, etc.
The new intake has a longer run from carberator to intake port..this will slow throttle response slightly but improve torque and power from idle to mid range..right where its going to need it with the varioprop. The slower throttle up won't overstress things...just have to be mindful of it in flight and plan maneuvers accordingly.
Now, I've been told by multiple people with engines modified by Performance what the effect was for them and their aircraft. May be long tales, but based on what I've been told I am on the right track. I'll detail what I've been told by 11 customers of theirs now.

1. prior to modification a toprc P51 with a stock zenoah engine using a 23x8 prop was running around 6500 rpm. After modification, same prop, engine was at 7600 rpm. He went to a 24x8 and is now running 6800. Airplane now flies very scale, with power to spare in the vertical.
2. a rc flight team in Katy Tx flies 4 mustangs and a corsair. The corsair uses a Moki 120 radial. the mustangs, all zenoahs. Prior to modification, the zenoah mustangs could not keep up with the corsair in vertical moves..even stalling at times. After modification, in the vertical, no problem, and the corsair struggles to keep up in the mustangs at WOT level flight. They have had to up their prop sizes to 25 inch diameter so the corsair can keep up. RPM on the 25x6 props..6100 unloaded.

Thats just two of the reports, 5 people..I could keep going but they are basically all the same, with similar reported rpm. Differences were in the choice of props..from Meizek to Xoar, to APC.

When selecting the 23.5 inch varioprop for this setup, it was a three way conversation between Christian, Performance Unlimited, and myself. I detailed the goal for the build, scale flight with a 4 blade propellor. A bit of back and forth later between Performance and Christian, it was decided my best option was the 23.5 inch on a 25F hub. Performance estimates a final pitch setting in the neighborhood of 12 to 14 degrees based on data Christian provided on the prop airfoil and blade shape. It was recommended that I start the engine with this prop at 18 degrees first time and adjust from there but to use a 23x8 two blade for tuning carb prior to mounting the varioprop.

So, in some pictures as the build progresses, you will see either a 22x10 or 23x8 xoar mounted to the engine some of the time. I don't have an engine test stand, room for one, or access to one, so the engine won't be run until the plane is mostly complete or, even complete all the way and in flying trim. Its just how it is. Sometimes we do what we have to. I'd love to be able to put it on a test stand first, run and tune before mounting but would just be added expense and would have to toss it after the build to save room.

So, in the meantime, enjoy the thread, cross your fingers for me this all works as I hope. With the new intake, the exhaust could get interesting. That will be the last hurdle. Funny how when you change one thing it affects four others..Reason why the reed valve conversion got nixed...it would cause too much havoc with the airframe and engine.
 
Parts left to order:
Rc plane stand.
Exhaust
Spinner.

Of the three, the only thing I can order without the airframe, is the plane stand..the other two are going to require measurements..I may be able to pull off the spinner without it measuring from the rear prop hub front face to the prop blades on the vario prop...but until the engine is back, probably first week of January..can't do that either..It will probably come back after I have to leave out for work again. Such is life. In the meantime, the wait for the airframe continues. Same for the main landing gear wheels/tires..both still back ordered through tower. They expected the wheels/tires mid december..its now heading towards years end with no shipment on those..Might have to get some 5 inch dubros just so it can sit on its gear when needed to finish the build.. Robart makes them under contract..most of their stuff on their site is also out of stock..
Probably means the plane itself will also be behind expectation..so I may be staring at these parts for a few more months..

The good thing: Thanks to Wayne and his crew, Motion RC, Vertical Velocity, and the parts that tower has shipped, I can get some things done next time home. I can get the recievers bound, servos centered, back in their boxes and labeled, the Eflite retract controller set up done. so those steps in the build process will be out of the way.

Wayne and his crew have been nothing but helpful, offering services that most RC stores don't. Modification of the switch so I don't need a bunch of adapters, 3d printing of sanding blocks that a. work, and b. are sized to work for rc. Ply, CF plate, quality heavy duty servo leads which will hopefully reduce interference if any exists. servo lead locks so they won't come apart inside the wings...lots of goodies. In return, as my research takes me far and wide on the internet, including to russian rc sites some days, I've found things that I've shown Wayne, some of which may or may not end up being carried by Wayne and his crew here. I'll leave those announcements and additions to Wayne as they become available but some really cool stuff may be coming.

Also thanks to a conversation with Glen at RCPlanestands.com a new option for his floor model stand might be available if it works out well. I've asked him on mine, when ordered, to drill the base on one side at 1 inch intervals so I can insert a 1/4 inch dowel into the holes to act as a wing rack..the wings sitting in between the dowels which will be padded, on their leading edges to help avoid hanger rash during the build. Keeps them out of the way of the dogs and foot traffic....I hope. If it does work, Glen has mentioned adding it as an option to future orders. Kinda cool.

Oh yea, Wayne...expect an order for a 3s 1800 for the ignition...its good to 12.4 volts..so a 3s 11.4 should run it quite well..the max on the servos is 8.4 so its probably going to have to get along on 2s. gotta allow for output from battery on full charge but will need futaba connectors on the batteries or a lead that goes from the battery plug to a futaba. Easiest would be the 3s 1800 with the xtc connector like on the switch you did for me and do a heavy duty lead to a futaba style female plug. I think a charging lead might work there. Has a heavy enough wire.
 
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Interested in seeing one of those

Well, Ken, I have some good news for you.

The varioprop is sitting in San Antonio awaiting my arrival now. The engine will be back from Performance Unlimited, according to USPS, on the 27th. The vogelsang intake will also be in on the 27th. So, besides the exhaust, the power setup will be all there.
Rcplanestands.com got my order this morning for the new floor stand.
Left on the to-do.
Exhaust,
Spinner.
Should make good progress on getting all of those measurements when I get home.
 
Cool. You be going at it soon.
I like scale planes, but even though I have been building off and on since the mid '60s, I have yet to build a scale model.

But I am acquiring all the parts and supplies for a 1/3 scale Andy Sheber Pitts s1s. I have the engine (a 60cc DLE twin) all of the fiberglass parts, plans, and nearly all of the radio gear. Waiting for Wayne to restock the AT-V1 Sensor Hub and get my switches to have all of the radio gear. Waiting for wood, fabric, and dope till after we get moved from Ca. to Missouri.

Looking forward to building again. With every thing packed, no building.

Show some good details on that varioprop. The gear head in me must know.

Ken
 
You might want to look at the gas engine sensor pack as well.

Gives two engine temp sensors, tach with optical kill like function along with an rpm limiter (if programmed) and fuel velocity if you are putting a gas engine in. Still ties to the reciever of course.

Christian makes a 2 blade hub as well and mounting to the DLE is actually simpler than mine. You'd just have to talk to him and see which blade profile you'd want to use.

The nice thing...you'd only have to buy one hub and two blades. Pick a diameter rhats about the middle of the DLE's range and dial the pitch till you are comfortable with how it flies.
 
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I know one thing. Glen, at rcplanestands, is a workaholic. I'm not complaining though. The man works his butt off to not only produce a bunch oftop quality work stands, but is always open to ideas.

I spoke with him about two weeks ago about drilling the base of one for dowels to be inserted to hold a set of wings, safely, to avoid hanger rash, just to make sure there was enough "meat" to do it.

He not only said there was, but asked me to give him two weeks because he had a plan to take that idea and make it better.

He not only did that, but knocked it out of the park.
I give you the wing rack for the rcplanestands.com floor stands, available in standard, max, and mega depending on the weight of your plane. The standard also can be ordered with small fuselage holders for planes smaller than 1/5 scale.
The wing rack upgrade will set you back an additional 85 dollars.

Mine, prior to shipping. Tested and approved. Made in California, USA

It's almost too pretty to use lol
 

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Interested in seeing one of those

Here you go. Setting the pitch is easy once its together. You losten the screws holding the front and back of the hub thegether, put on the guage and pointer, turn the pitch adjustment screw. Once its set, tighten everything down.
 

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Engine is back as well, The vogelsang intake is on. I gotta run tomorrow and get a small traight edge, pick up a couple of deliveries and can start making a drill guide to get the carioprop and tuning props drilled. I won't cut the prop bolt down until I have the spinner.
 

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Mmmmm, Thinking thos stacks would look really sweet on the DLE 60 for the Pitts when I start building.

I have a metal lath, reckon I could make something, Have a few other engine projects for it.

Ken
 
Mmmmm, Thinking thos stacks would look really sweet on the DLE 60 for the Pitts when I start building.

I have a metal lath, reckon I could make something, Have a few other engine projects for it.

Ken
I'm trying to find a good set of stand offs. Or drill out what I got.
20 mm length, but center hole isn't big enough.
 
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Bolt now converted to a stud, but it bit me in the process..grade 8 bolts are freaking hard to cut. Took a diamond blate on the dremel but, in the end, didn't mess up the threads..so, overall, a success. The gap between prop and hub is to allow for spinner back plate. Once its here I can trim the antirotation pins to length.
 

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The saying "that'll leave a mark in the morning" is often true although meant in humor.

I certainly have my share of marks that have lasted beyond the morning

That prop is truly good looking.

Ken
 
Ok, as promised I'm going to further explain the prop. Its actually a pretty straight forward assembly.

If you look at the second picture here, you can see the simple, yet accurate method used by Ramoser to make the blades stay constant in their pitch The back part of the hub, on the far right has a center bushing that serves two purposes. One, for mounting, the other for the "block" to ride on as you turn the adjustment screw. Maintnence needed is some occasional grease applied to the bushing if you change the pitch a lot due to varying altitudes, example, if you use a varioprop on an IMAC competition plane. For the rest of us, once the pitch is dialed in, no real need to open up the hub again. There is a small hole in the rear of the hub, just big enough fir a QTip to get through to apply grease if you adjust the pitch to max setting.

The blades have a small nipple on the end of the shaft that, in turn, engages the block. The shafts have an aluminum support in the center so you can't crush a blade in the hub and gives added strength.
 

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This picture shows the blades inserted in the hub, the grooves in the blades lock the blades in the hub when both halves of the hub are together.
 

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Final assembly. To adjust pitch, the hub screws have to be lossened about a turn and a half, otherwise the pitch adjustment screw can't move. The hub exerts enough pressure on the blades that you could strip the adjustment screw.
 

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