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Hanger 9 1/5th scale Mustang.

Txmustangflyer

Strong User
Wayne, If build threads aren't allowed just nix it.

Ok guys, I'm going to put a version of this here because there are some great minds in this forum. I'm dealing with an ARF that's produced for Hanger 9 by Seagull, and it's designer left before the manual was written. So, yeah, I'm going to run into snags. I already know of 1 that, depending on the degree of the issue, may require major surgery to the right wing. I hope not, but, if so..that's why I have y'all. To laugh at my mistakes then make suggestions on how to fix them. Konrad, this means you too.

So here goes the full intro to this project:
Hanger 9 1/5 scale P51 ARF.
Engine: Performance Unlimited Products "promod" zenoah G62 with reed valve conversion.
Exhaust: jtec Kit specific compact wrap around
Propeller: 23.5 inch 4 blade Vario-prop from Ramoser. Max rpm unloaded is 6300
Recievers: Archer SR10 Pro with an Archer RS redundant. Gas engine sensor pack for telemetry.
Servos are all spektrum HV.
Pilot: 1/5th scale USAAF from warbirdpilots.com
Retracts: Eflite 85/90 electric with Eflite retractable tail wheel.
 
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Let's start with the engine. In the pictures, you see the difference on intake side with and without the reed valve conversion. I assembled to get an idea myself. There's a good chance I'm going to have to let it through the cowl on the right side. If so, I've sourced from Wayne and crew a cf plate and plywood to make a rear facing scoop to keep the prop wash from messing with the carb causing a lean condition. I'll look at clocking the engine first to see if I can get away with not having to cut the cowl but the carb/intake with the reed valve is taller than the cylinder so probably not. The scoop will be mounted in one if two ways. Easiest is to use the carb bolts and mount to the carb itself, or mount to the cowl. The benefit of mounting to the carb is a guarantee it doesn't get sucked up against the carb, choking the engine out.
Other things that will change during modification: exhaust porting, piston dome recontoured, combustion chamber recontoured, lengthening of stroke, as well as new, higher strength bearings. The spring starter tail shaft will also be machined off.

The CDI conversion is on its way from CH Ignition. The mods to engine will more than make up for the weight of the reed valve block. Tail shaft, cdi, and losing the magneto/coil will lighten the engine almost a pound.
 

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I'm not using Hanger 9's decal set. I'll be recovering the rudder in cub yellow and putting on the Livery for Will Faord's Swamp Fox. Little Will has reported for duty.
Callie-Graphics has been tasked for the proper markings as well as their 1/5 scale P51 decal set.
 

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Fuel dot will be mounted in the same location as the center tank fill cap on a full scale P51.
The tank tray and fuel tank. Viton fuel line will be used throughout. No Tygon at all.
 

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The tank tray assembled. About all I can do until the Airframe arrives. It will get a light sanding and painted with Klass Kote prior to install. It's super light, and will, firmly, keep the tank in place.
Wayne, just a bug in your ear. This tray is from DA, but if someone were to produce a similar in CF that was even lighter and just as strong..(hint, hint)..wouldn't know anyone that might could do that...do ya? (Grin)

Also be looking for some of them sanding blocks soon.
 

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Eflite jewelry.
 

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The case is filling up quick. Sorry, Wayne. GetFPV had the RS at 20 bucks. Next trip home, I'll be able to mock up the reciever/servos and the rs, get all centered and checked, etc. The switch ordered from Wayne and crew should be in by then.
 

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A side note: ghoffman, over on flying giants did a very long, scientific-like, trial between tygon and viton over time.
After many months of exposing them to submersion in fuel, sunlight, drying, etc, what he found, as far as for gas engines, was that Viton did not expand, turn hard, etc like Tygon does. His conclusion, if you use Viton throughout your gas fuel system, you will never find a need to replace it. His words "archeologists 10,000 years from now will find a coil of Viton and use it themselves"

My problem. I ordered 3/8s OD instead if 1/4 od. I'll get a couple of feet of the latter for clunk, and vent line. It's a little more flexible. (Wayne, another good stock item. For us gas guys it's a 1 and done type deal. Viton never has to be changed. Right now, McMaster Carr is the only online source I know of..and their shipping takes ages. You guys are faster.)
 
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This is the gas engine sensor pack. Reading the very brief instruction manual there are two temp sensors. A wring harness to tie in the cdi ignition for rpm, throttle limit and kill switch. (Wayne, I need to figure out how to tie a LED into that circuit) as well as the fuel velocity sensor.
Actual set up on the engine might be interesting.

After reading the instructions I think (stress that) I have a handle on it. The little delicate looking temp sensor looks like it just sticks in between the cooling fins of the cylinder. The beefier temp sensor with the eyelet appears to be for the crank case of the engine.
 

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The most anticipated part of this saga, besides the airframe itself, is the Vario-prop. Ramoser shipped it by DHL. I've not had a lot of experience with DHL and their shipping, but, fingers crossed, it transits ok from Germany to Texas intact.
 
Thanks to Adrian at CH Ignition, the final parts needed to send the Zenoah off to Performance Unlimited arrived this morning, as promised. The engine was immediately boxed and shipped, on its way for a serious upgrade. Adrian sent a new flywheel, hall sensor and bracket, magnet, ignition module and harness.
 

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In addition to the carbon plate and ply, I've ordered some cf mat. So if I have to make a scoop to cover the carburetor, I'll be able to do so using the plywood templates to make a mold in combination with some plastic as a barrier to shape the top of the scoop. Be my first attempt at composite molding a part..so another expansion of knowledge. When I get to that point, I'll need some serious input.
 
The last round of deliveries before I head off to work. Got the choke servo in.
And the B&B specialties throttle linkage is in. Their nifty carb adjustment tool came with it.

The idea is to "bend the corner" using the turnbuckles. It, normally, works with their G62 cup mount which is too big for my application. Thanks to the read valve conversion kit, I have some options on carb position, but still would have some really funky bends. The servos are on left side of engine. The carb on the right side, so, using the linkage gets me closer. A bend or two might still be needed, but not some crazy, funky looking thing. The servos will be able to pull the throttle instead of push it, same with choke.Just have to fashion my own bracket off the firewall.
 

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In discussion with Les at Performance Unlimited, the final decision on the reed valve modification has been made. Due to pushing the carburetor past the limits of the cowl and disturbing the scale appearance of the Mustang. I've elected to leave that modification out.
The gain from the reed valve at the rpms the engine will be living at is not substantial enough to warrant the hassle. Yes, the Zenoah is piston valve by design and with that form of induction it does suffer blow back up the intake until the piston seals the valve.
but, with the Vario-prop being limited to 6300 rpm unloaded, the gain from the reed valve would not be noticeable. So the reed valve is out. Les stated that the performance of the engine, without it, will still be enough to reach the goal.
The complications the reed valve conversion would have caused just weren't going to be worth it in the end. As it is, the rpm limitations of the Vario-prop may require as much as 18 degrees pitch, if not more to keep the unloaded rpm of engine/prop at or just below 6300
 

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So with the game plane change on the engine and not having to do a cowl destroying scoop for the carb, I suddenly find myself with some cf plate and cf mat that I have to justify buying...

Resolution: Hanger 9 includes a thin plastic baffle for the engine..you have to trim it to fit..it's about as thick as a canopy which means it's about as strong as a canopy and only covers one side of the engine.
I've got to keep it light...so, there's the use for the cf. Using their baffle as a basic mold, a lot of wax, and some patience I'll make a full surround baffle, using the oil cooler molded in intake under the prop as, well, an intake, and the baffle to direct air into the cylinder. But if it comes in..it also has to exit. The P51 provides for that already and calliegraphics includes the decal to mock it up and make it look right. (See picture) it's just a matter of drilling callie's black dots. Add in the opening underneath for the top of the cylinder and it should keep the engine cool indeed.
 

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So, today, most of the major tools I sold way back along with planes and so on has now been replaced. A new Dremel is on the way, A Dremel work station, and a new, high tech covering iron with digital thermostat that adjusts in 1 degree increments. (Sorry Wayne, but it was on sale on amazon) Dremel has the basics with it but the local lowes has a dedicated half isle just for dremel stuff. So if I need something it's just a run down the street.
Performance has been paid for the engine work, soon as it's done it will be on its way back home. Next week, rcplanestands.com.

Dang it, forgot the canopy scissors...Wayne!
 
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I finally traced down a part I've been looking for for months. An intake that turns the carb 90 degrees, and moves it back to clear the cylinder. It means Al and his crew at Jtec will have to customize the exhaust some but it shouldn't be bad.

 
Wooooohooooo
The varioprop has landed in New York, FINALLY. USPS now has it. It should be there by the time I get home this round.

Assembly pictures (dry fit) to follow.
 
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