Gymball proble

[Tony 69]

I have an older Horus X10S that I absolutely love, I am running an older FrSky OS software version because frankly I dont fly model that require a complicated setup. The problem I am having now is with the rudder channel, if the throttle is at idle and I apply full left rudder the servo gets the jitters or returns to centre or just moves left to right or right to left, the puzzling part is it only misbehaves when stick is at full idle and all the way to the left, also it is intermittent it sometimes takes a while for it to happen, it doesn't happen in any other stick position or when right rudder is applied and it is only this one stick? has anyone else experienced this issue if so what was the remedy. and yes I tried different RX's and servo, in fact I tried the radio on 5 different models before my conclusion it was actually the radio, very frustrating.
Thanks for any and all answers...

 

[Wayne]

Pretty sure this will be a bad wire from the gimbal. Either a wire is about to fail, or more than likely, the plug is starting to pull out, or a crimp is failing. As we pick up hours on the radio, this tends to settle in, and is a known issue for the X10S.

 

[Tony 69]

Is this an issue that I can easily fix mysel Wayne? no offence but i'm a little apprehensive about shipping it across the border at the moment with customs on both sides seeming to be over zealous.

 

[Wayne]

Sure - Open her up and inspect. While moving the stick in the direction that causes the issue you should see which wires are moving the most, I'd start there. First thing is to unplug the connectors and then plug them back in, sometimes this alone will fix the issue. If it does, then pull them off again and give the pins a good cleaning. You got lucky, as this was an easy fix. Chances are you will have to do a little more work and identify a bad wire and replace it. It is a little more involved, but not bad.

Keep us posted, there is a small chance we may have a harness for this, but would have to dig around to see. We put some X10 parts in a box before the move, but no idea where it landed.

 

[Tony 69]

Thank you Wayne, I cant get to it until the weekend but will certainly keep you posted..
PS I still have my Taranis on openTX so have re-bound some models to that TX until i have the Horus working properly again;..

 

[Tony 69]

Hi Wayne, took me longer than expected to get to the Horus due to a health issue which requires knee surgery next month. that said i have had the back off.,cleaned the pins on the harness with a fluid connection cleaner and it seemed to work then it didn't, I took the back off again and gently manipulated the wires to see if that caused any reaction, it did not, the wires themselves do not appear damaged or stretched in any way and are clear of the gymbal when it is moved so no worn areas, I am a little puzzled by this as this problem does not appear directly after the radio is powered up but takes a minute or two to manifest itself, could there be a problem with the gymbal or is it likely to be deeper in the radio or even the software? What would you suggest moving forward?

 

[Wayne]

This will be a hardware issue of some sort. The wiring is the most common issue we have seen. The wires can look fine, but the metal inside the insulation will be broken due to fatigue.

It could be something else.. Really hard to say.

Sorry for the health problems. Never fun.

 

[Hoqiam]

If the problem only starts after the set has been on for a bit, it could be a component that opens up when it warms up.

Tom

 

[Tony 69]

Tom that is exactly what happens, you say it could be a component that opens up after the set warms up, how can I determine this or better yet track it to its source.
seems like I may have to send it across the border for someone who knows what they are doing to take a look at it, that said I am a little leary of sending anything across the border now with customs etc the way they are at the moment..

 

[Hoqiam]

If you have a multimeter, you could try running some power off continuity and resistance checks. Then with power on take a
few voltage tests. As the set warms up look for changes in the data. Then with the set in malfunction mode, recheck your data
points. You should be able to see a change or variation occur in your data. Don't forget to wiggle the sticks, and wiring as you do
your testing. It is sometimes helpful to give things a tap or two also.
The best that you can do is to look for changes, and try to isolate the event to an area that has a connection problem or a bad resister
or capacitor. These things you can fix. look also for bad soldering, it can happen. If you find that the problem could be a chip then
that is a major component and will require expertise in replacing it. Remember-Solder itself is not a very good conductor, you want good
wire to wire contact.

Tom