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Good fuel proofer?
- Thread starter Doc J
- Start date
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
I've heard of that one, but never tried it. Yes, my current project is an art, but beyond that, it's going to be my "ultimate" mustang build. The one that rolls all my previous attempts at a super nice rc plane into one, with additions I haven't done before.
After it's initial couple of years flying, it may even be glassed and flitemetal'd. Just depends on how well the ultracote holds up or if there's some Hanger rash etc.
For now, using the scheme that Hanger 9 has provided, the only thing I need to change is the rudder covering.
Konrad, a quick question. In your experience, what's best for removing ultraKote...trust me, just trying to peel it...leads to a lot of sanding to get the color pigment layer off lol.
Konrad
Very Strong User
Don't know if I have a good process for that. I like to freeze the covering using reusable compresses from the CVT store. Cold coverings seem to lift off easier. The adhesive doesn't grab a tenaciously. For adhesive that will be left on the wood I like to scrape it off with a carpet knife blade held at close to 90° to the surface. I find that sandpaper will load up and actually damage the wood more than the scraper.
Now I will say that Oracover (Ultracoat) is a lot easier to cleanly remove than Monokote (well the true Monokote of old) AKA: MoneyKote. Try not to use an iron as this tends to drive the adhesive into the wood grain. But sometimes there is no other way to remove the plastic film.
There might be some hints here.
Hobie Hawk Restoration
I don't use the thin stuff very often, usually medium. But my experience is a small amount of thin will pretty much cure on contact with a towel. I have never managed to have any glue get past the towel. If I am using thin CA, I will glue it up in the garage if I can.
forum.alofthobbies.com
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
From what I've heard, that trick is generally used on firewalls.
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
Good thing is, I only have to do a rudder lol.Don't know if I have a good process for that. I like to freeze the covering using reusable compresses from the CVT store. Cold coverings seem to lift off easier. The adhesive doesn't grab a tenaciously. For adhesive that will be left on the wood I like to scrape it off with a carpet knife blade held at close to 90° to the surface. I find that sandpaper will load up and actually damage the wood more than the scraper.
Now I will say that Oracover (Ultracoat) is a lot easier to cleanly remove than Monokote (well the true Monokote of old) AKA: MoneyKote. Try not to use an iron as this tends to drive the adhesive into the wood grain. But sometimes there is no other way to remove the plastic film.
There might be some hints here.
Hobie Hawk Restoration
I don't use the thin stuff very often, usually medium. But my experience is a small amount of thin will pretty much cure on contact with a towel. I have never managed to have any glue get past the towel. If I am using thin CA, I will glue it up in the garage if I can.
But I'll use that thread to see about getting the red off.
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
Wonder what it was, actualky..actually.. a diluted acetone? If so, wonder what was used to dilute..
Yeah, I can see that is a problem with foam. I used it on a open frame balsa frame. Presently I am recovering a Sig 4 Star and used Citristrip water based stripper because the old iron-on covering was delaminating. In retrospect using Citristrip on an open frame plane was a mistake because the goop oozed all over inside the plane into spots where I can't reach.
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
I'm thinking I'm
Been researching this. A lot of guys have used Ironex, used for cleaning things like covering irons, denatured alcohol or acetone, both of those being applied with cotton balls.
Konrad
Very Strong User
Been there, done that. Like I said I don't have a good process to remove the colored adhesive. The solvent just drove the color deeper into the wood grain. Please test in an inconspicuous spot. I hope you can come up with a workable process.
I honestly am not bothered with the color oozing into the wood if I'm recovering with opaque color over it. My only concern is what Konrad said about solvent-based stripper penetrating into foam core wings. I also learned from experience that using a thick water based stripper like Citristrip on open frames made a mess when all the dissolved goop got inside the frame and made it hard to remove.
Based on years of flying iron-on film that don't last and require eventual stripping and recovering, I am starting to think it is better to do a more durable covering job to begin with. I am practicing recovering with Koverall and Minwax Polycrylic on an old Sig 4Star right now. I admit it is a learning curve and lots more work. I am hoping that the extra work is worth it in the long run.
Based on years of flying iron-on film that don't last and require eventual stripping and recovering, I am starting to think it is better to do a more durable covering job to begin with. I am practicing recovering with Koverall and Minwax Polycrylic on an old Sig 4Star right now. I admit it is a learning curve and lots more work. I am hoping that the extra work is worth it in the long run.
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
This is where I'm lucky..my current project is fully sheeted and I only need to do the redder to boot (it's just the wrong color for the aircraft I'm trying to replicate. Stock is red, going back with cub yellow ultracote.
Somebody posted something in one of the other forum about stables brand box tape and using that with just a little heat. Pulls most of it off without chemicals..heating just enough to start softening the adhesive.
Have you ever used Sig heat activated adhesive? Spray on, let dry to touch..then it's activated just like the adhesive on the covering..but holds stronger.
If the 4star isn't foam, might try a light weight two part epoxy with a very light fiberglass weave or fabric. (No offense wayne) There is also a very light CF mat material that Gator RC has in smaller sizes that is even lighter than glass. It's designed to be used with zap epoxy, you can dilute the epoxy a bit with alcohol to thin it and so it soaks in better.
Deluxe Materials Carbon Fibre Mat Item No.DLMBD66
Deluxe Materials Carbon Fibre Mat Item No.DLMBD66
gator-rc.com
Being CF be a darn near indestructible skin. The zap epoxy is printable, like fiberglass, lay it, sand it, paint.
I bought some, along with a couple plate from Wayne and crew, to build a better engine baffle for my Hanger 9 mustang that will hold up better than the thin plastic one that's included but wouldn't add a bunch of weight like metal would.
Like you, it will be my first experiment at making something from composites. The plate will be the core structure, the cf mat will be used to shape the edges to the engine and cowl, using the plastic baffle as a mold then adding what I needed to isolate the carburetor, creating an ambient pressure area for it....I hope.
The engine is being modified so I'm expecting some directed cooling will be needed.
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Taranafobe
New User
Seriously Dude. Electric motors have no soul lol.
Taranafobe
New User
Electric has no soul.
Taranafobe
New User
Been a while. Sorry for the repeat of my lame attempt at humor. lol
Taranafobe
New User
He always has. Especially on the hard starting Radials . Besides, i carry 20 gallons of volatile organic compounds in the van that takes the one gallon of methanol to the field. Dont have to carry those dangerous and ecologically disastrous "batteries" the Chinese are destroying their (and our) environments with for profit.
Ever see a LiPo fire? Pretty impressive, some may say explosive. lol.
Its all fun if we dont take it to seriously. God put all this stuff here for us to enjoy, responsibly or not.
Ever see a LiPo fire? Pretty impressive, some may say explosive. lol.
Its all fun if we dont take it to seriously. God put all this stuff here for us to enjoy, responsibly or not.